Tues 25 May. Arranged for an early morning taxi….3:30….to get me to the bus stand which was across and in the opposite part of the city. Driver was a bit late, but no traffic at that time of day. He kept on about car hijackings and thieves etc, which had me slightly worried. Got there safely; I found my Yegna bus but was shown to the Africa bus. My seat no. 3 became no. 26 but was a window seat and there was no-one next to me. We left right on time but seemed to take ages getting out of the city.
The bus climbed and climbed and descended….the scenery was amazing. Once daylight hit, the enormity of the landscape became apparent. Not sure what term to use….mountains or escarpment or plateaus. And then the most magnificent part where we seemed to descend a couple of thousand feet to the river valley and up the other side. I just caught sight of a sign that said..” Thank you for crossing the longest river in the world “….the Nile of course.
The bus was very comfortable and there were a few drops. One in particular was very eventful. I’d already had a couple of coffees but the conductor persuaded me to join him for a third cup. As I sat drinking my coffee, the silver percolator type with screw on top that was on the hot coals, exploded. Fortunately the lid flew off away from where I was, which was only a couple of feet away. Well, I was covered in coffee and coffee grounds….head to toe. The coffee grounds wiped off very easily. As I wasn’t hurt I could see the funny side. It certainly attracted a lot of attention. Once back on the bus, the conductor offered me a front seat…..I think because he was feeling partly to blame and a bit guilty…..which I accepted after a little while.
We arrived in Bahir Dar after 9 hours. Ashu got talking to me as I got off the bus…..and in fact he was a nice guy and showed me around the town etc over the next few days. I made it clear that he wasn’t my guide but I would buy all the drinks when we were out and about. He took me to the NGG Htl which cost 260birr without b’fast. But it was less than 5gbp so I was happy with that. Just as well it had a good net because there were lots of mosquitoes. The light in the room didn’t work …but sufficient light from the bathroom….and the shower was cold….But you can’t have everything !! I treated Ashu to a couple if beers; later I found somewhere with a nice lake view that sold Tej; I had Tibs for dinner. A good travel day.
26th. Very comfortable night’s sleep. Met Ashu as I’d agreed to do a lake excursion. A very touristy thing for me to do but it had to be done. At a cost of 50GBP I had a boat to myself…with Ashu and the skipper…. and we visited 3 islands that had 15th/16th century monasteries. 2 of the islands were close to each other; one had the monk’s monastery and the other the nun’s monastery. Although the monks could visit the nuns, the nuns weren’t allowed on the monks’ island !! I could enter the monastery with lots of hand painted murals, but not the other two. There were lots of ancient artefacts on display….crosses, bowls, old leather manuscripts. All very interesting….just the fact that the monasteries are all the same shape and virtually the same size, was a bit boring. Went looking for hippos where the Nile entered Lake Tana, but no luck….only rocks that looked like hippos !!! Being on the highest lake in Africa for a few hours was quite something. I think at about 2,300 mtrs.
I went back to the hotel, and because it was only early afternoon I walked about 45mins to see the Blue Nile. I found it after walking passed/through construction sites. It wasn’t very exciting but at least I saw the Blue Nile !! Walked back to the pier thing and enjoyed a couple of beakers of Tej. Met up with Ashu at a bar he recommended. Spent a nice evening drinking j(y)ambo or draught beer, and finally got to sample the meat dish that is served on hot coals….with Injera of course.
27th. Got up early. Cold shower. Got to the bus stage about 5:30 for bus to Gondar. Had decided on a day trip instead of spending the night there. Took ages to fill up; we left at 8:00; alas, instead of a 3 hour journey, it took 4.5 hrs. At one point about 5 army personnel…a real variety of ‘uniforms’, and the only thing they had in common were the rifles. At least they weren’t doing any checks…just getting a free ride.
We arrived gone midday; were dropped off at a junction on the outskirts of Gondar; had to get a local minibus to the historical part of town which was on the total opposite side. The forts/palaces…16th & 17th century were well preserved and it was interesting to wander around the big complex. But I was conscious of the time and as it took 4.5 hours to get there, I decided to head back to Bahir Dar.
Even that wasn’t easy. I never did figure out the one way traffic system, but got a tuk tuk to take me to the bus stand. Even that was a 5 min drive from the junction where I had originally planned to get off. Anyway, the minibus cost 200birr..double the morning trip…but it was a much quicker journey..only 3 hours. So, it was a day when lack of planning resulted in frustration and fatigue. Interesting terrain going back…rock formations jutting out of the landscape…..volcanic plugs I presume….thinking back to my geology studies. Headed straight for Tej, then showered and met up with Ashu at the bar. Jambo and the roasting meat dish. The butcher had a mesmerising technique of carving….a knife in each hand, which criss crossed at great speed as he chopped !!!
28th. An early start again. I was heading to Lalibela….the land of the rock-hewn churches. Left about 7:00. Instead of 6 hours it took 8 hours. But a good trip once again with amazing terrain….hills/mountains/peaks/valleys/escarpments/farming. Met Ambachew on the bus and hung out with him for the next few days in Lalibela. Had Tibs & coffee for lunch. Ambachew took me to the Asheten htl which was recommended to me in Bahir Dar…..but it was closed. Then taken to the Seven Olives htl. Only cost 500birr..incl b’fast, and it had hot water for showers…and it had a great view across the valley. Apparently it was the first hotel built in Lalibela….a government hotel built in the 1970s by the daughter of Haile Selassie.
After checking in I immediately went down the road and bought my 5 day churches pass for 2,150birr. About 40GBP. As the first group of churches was next to the ticket office, I began my tour. Hard to explain these churches cut into the rock about 1000 yrs ago…..but absolutely amazing. I was irritated by the guides wanting to show me around, and I snapped at them a few times; I didn’t endear myself to them. One even wanted to be paid to look after my shoes when I entered the church….I very impolitely declined the offer !! Ambachew and I unsuccessfully looked for Tej…failed…but had jambo instead.. I had a very tasty dinner at the hotel..meat on a bone with a lovely gravy….and with Injera of course. The starter had a very spicy dip.
Sat 29th. B’fast surprised me as I was offered porridge ; it was served with honey..delicious. Plus toast and coffee. This was my adventure day….to climb to the Asheton Maryam monastery. From Lalibela it looked an awfully long way up. In fact you couldn’t see it from the town. Anyway, my mission…..and in fact it only took me about 2 hours. I learned from all the locals coming down the mountain how to cut off the bends in the road to save time. It was Saturday and it was market day. I was offered a sheep but declined….a donkey and I might have been interested to get me up the mountain !! As it turned out, my knee held up and my lungs were absolutely fine.
The last part of the climb was along a narrow path cut into the mountainside. That’s where I had my problem. Great views, but my vertigo kicked in and for the last short part of the climb I was on my hands and knees. That wasn’t fun but I made it to the top. It was worth the extra 800birr to get to the top of the mountain; the monastery wasn’t included in the ticket I bought the previous day. Magnificent views; looking down at Lalibela, I couldn’t believe how far I had climbed. The vertigo didn’t affect me so badly going back down, but the descent was actually more tiring. Sore knee…Sore back. Took it easy at the hotel and skipped going to the market.
Ambachew couldn’t make it for a drink and instead i met up with his griend Joseph for some Tej and a very spicy beans snack which got steam coming out of my nose and ears !!! Was offered draught Walia beer at the hotel so I decided to have dinner there..a very tasty Tibs.
Sun 30th. Had the hotel omelette for b’fast…it was very well done. Apology for the coffee maker being broken so I had tea. In the morning I visited st Giorgis church…about 15mins from the hotel. Jaw dropping…stunning. Equivalent to a 3 storey building cut into the rock. It’s the only one of the churches not covered by a protective structure….I think because of its location. But of course that means that parts of are gradually being eroded by the weather. The process of replacing/renovating is governed by strict religious overview….
In the afternoon I went to another group of churches….I think there were 4 or 5 over quite a large area, and some excavations were still going on. Words can’t express the magnificenc of these structures.
In the late afternoon I met Ambachew who had promised to take me for Tej at a bar/restaurant with a view. A short tuk tuk ride…..and what a view. Overlooking the valley below to the mountain’s in the distance. There was a sunset, a Tibs dinner, nice Tej…..my last night in Lalibela…..what a way to end my time in Lalibela. If I hadn’t made a promise to pay the guys in Addis at the end of the month, I would’ve stayed in Lalibela another couple of days.
Mon 31st. My flight wasn’t until 13:00. Oh yeah, I decided to fly back to Addis. I couldn’t face another 8 plus 9 hour bus journey….even with an overnight in Bahir Dar. But before going to the airport….and fortunately for me…..it was st George’s Day. At 7:30 I went down to st George’s church where thousands of people were gathering for a very special church service. Awesome. I was quite moved by the whole spectacle. I stayed nearly an hour just absorbing the atmosphere and listening to the chanting. Quite an experience.
On that note I returned to the hotel to pack and shower and get the taxi to the airport. Ambachew saw me off. I chatted a little with a couple of tourists. The flight was only a couple of hours, even with a short stop in Bahir Dar. Nice to see the Lake Tana islands from the air. We landed at 15:00 and by 16:00 I was back at the house, just beating the worst of the rush hour in the taxi.
What an amazing 7 days in northern Ethiopia. Spectacular scenery and wonderful culture.