Aug 2024 Flight to Tz….
Mon 26th Aug. Start of my travels. 06:30 taxi to Gatwick Airport. Was there before 07:00 and because I was first in the queue, I was through within minutes. It’s easy to pass the time in an airport…visiting shops, people watching and playing sudoku. Then to the freezing cold departure lounge.
Although the Ethiopian flight left about 45 mins late I didn’t mind as I had nearly a 5 hour stopover in Addis. The incredible thing was that the fact that the plane was only about half full. In fact the 2 seats next to me were empty, and after a nice meal , I could stretch across the 3 seats. Nice to lie flat but I couldn’t get my head comfortable and as it was a day flight I actually didn’t need to sleep.
Tues 27th. Arrived Julius Nyerere airport about 03:30. Was through in just over an hour; the long queues for a visa slowed things down. I was in no hurry and was hoping it would start getting light by the time I left the airport.
So, my rucksack ( somewhat squashed) was waiting for me on the conveyor belt. I walked out, ignoring the offers of a taxi. In less than 10 minutes I was on the main road. As the road had been partly dug up for construction of the new Rapid Transport System, I had to walk 20 mins to where the dalas stopped. Being after 05:00, all the dalas were heaving with city workers. After 10 mins a people carrier pulled up offering people a lift. I couldn’t believe my luck….I travelled in comfort with only 6 other people at a cost of only 1,000tsh. The cost of a dala is about 600-700 with all the accompanying discomfort (standing room only).
I got off passed Mnazi Moja and walked in the general direction of Riki Hill htl. I found Shabani selling black coffee (no sugar or milk) and had about 7 cups at a cost of 100bob each. I spent an hour and a half there chatting with regular customers as they arrived….great fun.
I went to Riki around 07:00. Of course it was way too early as check out is at 10:00, but I booked an AC room for 40,000 that normally cost 45,000 for about 13:00. I then went to Harbour Suites for an expensive (5,000) but nice masala chai while I waited for the Airtel shop to open at 08:30.
I topped up my Sim Card. I went DTB to draw out money; frustrating that the maximum withdrawal was 200,000; in the past I could withdraw 400,000. Not a problem. From there to A T Room for a tea and to hook up with Happy again.
At 12:30 I returned to Riki and got into room 606 at around 13:00. It had AC which was a change from the usual fan. However parts of the floor were wet…I think there was a lot of condensation from the AC. I freshened up after having travelled for over 24 hours ( incl waiting for the room). I then went walkabout to keep myself awake, and ate a light lunch at the A T Room. Prior to that I popped back to Airtel to quickly sort out why I couldn’t send texts or make calls or access the Internet…successfully fixed.
Outside Riki I was stopped by a guy who greeted me as if he knew me and muttered something about me being here for work. At which point I recognised him from earlier in the year when he stopped me, saying he was immigration and asked to see my passport. This time I pulled my hand away and just marched off; I won’t be surprised if I’m stopped again. Then it was time to visit the Congolese pub for a couple of Castles. The pub has a new sign outside on the 1st floor saying Massage…a new venture perhaps ??!!
Then to 24/7 for a KVant & lemon soda night cap with a stick of mkombero bought from a couple of Masai guys for 1,000.
I slept very well.
Wed 28th. Well, the Riki breakfast hasn’t changed at all…2 slices of bread, omelette, a sausage and fruit…and with coffee it at least fills the stomach. I passed by the ferry terminal to get a view on the new 44USD travel insurance charge for tourists. Sounds like it will happen sometime in Sept, or maybe Oct..!!
I took a longer route to the Ethiopian Airlines office to ask about flights to Madagascar. The only advice I got was to check online because it was 10% cheaper, and that Nov was probably the best/cheapest month to travel. I took a couple of pics of metal art structures on two roundabouts and ended up at A T for a tea.
I chatted a while with a guy involved with all the construction in the City. What I thought at first was the creation of smart central road reservations is actually a huge expansion of the mwendokasi…the Rapid Transit…out to the suburbs. It’s a huge undertaking and won’t be finished for 4 to 6 years, but will revolutionise travel in Dar.
I was A T for a while before heading back to Riki to swap rooms from 606 to 603…having a fan, it was a bit cheaper at 35,000bob. Since April the basic room price has increased from 30,000 to 35,000…at £10 it’s good value considering breakfast is included and the Kariakoo location is not far from the City centre.
What else ? I had a few cups of coffee at Shabani’s stall. I bought a packet of chevda for 2,500; it wasn’t as tasty as I remember it from a few months ago. I had a simple late lunch of maharage na chapati for 1,500 at Kipata restaurant just down from Riki. I bought water then went to the Congolese pub for 2 beers and on to 24/7 for my nightcap. I bought a stick of mkombero, which made the Masai happy !!
That was it for the day…then bed.
Thurs 29th. Am happier with the fan in the room because it blocks out some of the outside noise. There’s just a hint of warmth in the shower water which means I can start getting used to colder showers !! After breakfast I walked to the ferry terminal to buy my ticket for 102,000, or the equivalent of $35; last time it was 100,000 so that was fine. I thought the road outside the Terminal was strangely quiet, and that was because it was shut to allow a motorcade to come through. I didn’t notice and was shouted at as I crossed over the road..!!!
There was a helluva downpour just before I reached A T Shop; I didn’t get too wet as I rushed across the road. I said to Happy that I would pop in on Friday morning on my way to the ferry. A quietish afternoon. I looked at a couple of shirts to buy, but at 25,000 each they were much too expensive.
I searched the backstreets for a tailor to mend a small rip in my blue shirt. I didn’t have any luck initially, but just when I’d given up, I found one who fixed it straight away for 500bob. Shabani wasn’t at his stall so no coffee to be had. I sat on my hotel balcony for a bit, as the sun came and went.
After that it was over to the Congolese Pub which was full of people about to watch a top football match. I didn’t pay the entrance fee of 1,000 as I planned to have a couple of beers, whereas most of the other customers didn’t seem to be drinking anything.
A nightcap at 24/7 then to bed.