Sat 29th. Glad I awoke a bit early…about 6:30…as I was able to rush down to the beach to take a few sunrise pics, and other pics in general after the washout of the previous day. A lovely, still morning. Some walking along the beach, then packing, then a large and tasty breakfast of fried eggs, toms, avocado, toast. There was always coffee, but no milk to add to it.
We chatted…charged our phones when the generator came on; asked for 2 bodas to take us to Kimbiji. About 10:00 Noreen came to say goodbye. At about 10:30 we left. Glad I chose not to wear my shoes, as a couple of times water splashed up onto my feet as we drove through puddles; I had anticipated the prospect of wet/damp shoes for a few days…which would’ve been unpleasant.
Bus waiting at Kimbiji but standing room only. After we started Mark asked someone to give up his seat due to his bad knee….the guy obliged, which was nice of him. First 20 mins was rough and uncomfortable for me as I was standing and holding onto my rucksack. After half way I got a seat. I put my shoes on in the bus. We walked down to the ferry; there was enough credit on our ferry cards. The crossing is only 10 minutes. Decided to get the BRT bus for 750tsh, as a bit far to walk to the hotel. Got off at Kisutu.
Left Mark at Sophia. I went Kariakoo. Chelsea hotel dropped from 100k to 90k but way too expensive. Calista next door only 25k but no WiFi, and didn’t seem very nice anyway. So I ended up at my usual…Riki Hill for 30k. Checked in; had a couple of samosas around the corner; went to the Congolese pub. Had one across the road at 24/7.
Sun 30th. The breakfast at Riki Hill is okay actually. The roads in the immediate vicinity get a bit muddy..which is not okay! Enquired at Tahmeed, only to discover there were no seats available for Monday to Tanga. Went looking for a replacement charger cable for my phone…more expensive than I was expecting . And most electrical shops were closed anyway. Late morning hook up with Mark at A T Room. And who should he brink along who was also staying at Sophia , but John my fellow actor in Hills of Taita. He was visiting from Mombasa. Couldn’t believe my eyes !! John accompanied me to Tahmeed but all 3 buses were full. Walked to Tawakal office…about 15 minutes away and I bought a ticket on the 05:45 bus to Tanga. Took John to the Congolese pub. Met Amos from DRC. Long conversation about DRC minerals and mining. Had a chips mayai dinner. Later went to watch English football at 24/7. The evening game was Spurs. Another bad start, and although they almost salvaged a draw, they conceded in the last minute. John arrived towards the end of the match and we had a good chat. Then to bed as I had quite an early start the next day.
Mon 1st. 15 minute walk to the bus stage, hardly anyone on the streets at that time. The bus left bang on time at 05:45. Good trip…exactly 6 hours. Tawakal office just over the railway tracks in Tanga, so an easy walk to Ocean Breeze. Room 25,000. Nice…it had a toilet seat and good shower. Went to the Blue Room for a snack of bajias,coconu dip,pilipili,tea. As I was making good time, I walked to Mkonge Htl for afternoon coffee. Back to shower and walked over to Splendid View. Missed Adolph. I popped into the Tanga Institute (Goan club) which seems to have been refurbished and the bar quite well stocked, and as a result there were about 8 customers there. And of course I ended up at SeaView motel for a delicious chicken curry dinner. Nice chats with staff/owner.
Tues 2nd. The Ocean Breeze breakfast seems to have improved a little. Went on a photography walkabout. Ines McLaren asked me to look for the location of Dalgetys office where her husband worked in the 60s and above which they lived. I found out the evening before that Dalgetys was long since knocked down and is now the Nyumbani Hotel on the next block to the Post office . Took pics and sent to Ines.
Went to check on G’pas grave. Not too much grass and weeds considering the heavy rain recently. Borrowed a pickaxe from the construction site across the road. Unfortunately Robert and his family had sold up and moved since December when I was last there and I no longer had his phone number. Shame, as he was a nice guy. It didn’t take long before my hands got sore, so after I had weeded as much as I could I went to the Mkonge for coffee. Ultimately I ended up at Splendid View…no Adolph again. Early evening dinner at SeaView beckoned and this time I had rice with my chicken curry. By the way the Jamhuri gardens renovation is not yet complete ( seems to have been going on a long time), so the view from SeaView is of corrugated sheets.
Wed 3rd. After breakfast I walked to Ngamiani to buy my Raqeeb bus ticket for the next day. Caught a dala dala from Ngamiani all the way to Mkonge. Wasn’t going to initially, but decided on walking to Raskazoni (not far really) to see if I could identify the Tanesco double storey house that Jill Wilson lived in (the 60s !). I sent photos of 5 houses but apparently it was none of those. But I discovered a little beach leading to mangroves, called Navy Beach. It is only a few months old and owned by the military to make a bit of extra money. The funny thing was that when I walked in someone started calling out…”Abduli, Abduli Kaka’s “…and it was Abduli the Kaka’s chef from Moshi who used to cook me those delicious tandoori chickens. He moved to Tanga at the start of this year…but what a coincidence to bump into him. Small world…on my travels.
Was feeling lazy so caught the dala dala into town. Took photos of the Greek Church, the house where we lived in Chumbageni, the library, the empty Tanga streets. Showered. Bought a samosa and bajia snack to eat on my way to Splendid View, but once again Adolph wasn’t there. Had a couple of small beers at Nyumbani Hotel so I could use the WiFi. Went the short distance to SeaView for my curry ‘fix’. Met up with John who had come in from Dar earlier in the day and we spent a nice couple of hours. That was it for my Tanga visit. As always, I like going back to my roots. And I love looking at the sisal plants as we pass by in the bus !!! Not too early a start the next day; about a 15-20 minute walk to Ngamiani.