14 June. Another early start; all the bus journeys seem to start at 4:30 a.m. So a taxi across the city. Again, confusion as to which bus…not Africana or Yegna….but the system somehow worked !! We left at 5:00 And after half an hour- once we got out of the city we were on an Expressway Toll road. Good while it lasted for half an hour but after that the regular road was not so good. A lot of traffic and some scary moments when we seemed to be on course for a head on collision. I guess the drivers know what they’re doing !! Nice views from the windy mountainous roads of the Ethiopian Highlands. A French and Kiwi couple got of at the junction to go to Harar and I arrived in Dire Dawa bang on time at 2:00 p.m. a 9 hour bus journey. No hassle…the bus stand was only 5 minute walk from the hotel. This time a room on the 1st floor facing the back. Wandered around a bit and Had dinner at Adanech’s street stall.
15th. Went to the Royal Palace part of town looking for possibility of another entrance. Realised I was at the back by the river and although I was very polite, I wasn’t allowed access. I went back to the front…took a couple of pics quickly, hoping that no-one would notice.
I decided to do the tour of the railway station/museum. The council or whatever office was open this time and just waited 10 mins for someone to come and deal with me. Paid my 100birr entrance and the ticket was surprisingly written out in French. So still a strong link with the past because it was French joint venture that built the railway line between Djibouti and Addis. I had a tour guide and lots of interesting facts about the past …over 100 years ago. It was great to be walking on the same ground that my Greek grandfather walked in the 20s & 30s. Great to be going back in time and seeing the old passenger carriages and train engines. And the station platform with signs still written in French. Back to Adanech for dinner ..omelette.
16th. After initially going to a hospital that , in the end, didn’t do the Covid test, I managed to find the correct clinic in the Kezira area. Oh, the reason for the PCR test requirement was that I’d planned to be in Djibouti for my birthday. I was near the Greek church but too early to pay a visit to Eleni.
I went across the road to a bar and met the lady who had taken me into the Greek church back in Apr/May. Also met the manager who was friends with George and we took a bajaji to George’s office. George is president of the Greek community of 2 !! and filled me in on the history of dire dawa. In its heyday there were 275 Greek families living there. Many were coffee producers around Harar. George Georgalis was born in 1944. A nice visit. Went to the first place I had street coffee in April and this time also tried the milky coffee.
Thurs 17th. I discovered the Cultural Restaurant which was just one street back from the main road and had a coffee there. Later in the afternoon, after a couple of drinks across from the church, I visited Eleni. Had a short chat, but she was so frail and in a dark room and I came away feeling quite sad and almost wished I hadn’t gone to see her.
Fri 18th. Took a bajaji to the clinic to get my Covid test result. Not often that people try and rip you off in Ethiopia, but the bajaji driver wanted 100birr and we settled on 50 !!! Well, the news I got came as a complete shock because my result was positive which meant I couldn’t fly to Djibouti that afternoon. My head was spinning, my legs were shaky; I was trying to assess the implications.
Eventually, after a drink at the bar across from the Church, I was pointed in the direction of another cultural restaurant and went for a Tej. The waitress couldn’t understand what I was asking for !!! Only a 3 letter word but pronouncing it with my tongue at the back of my throat instead of putting my tongue between my front teeth, made all the difference. I would’ve gone again to the Aman3 beer garden next to my hotel to watch football and have access to slightly better WiFi.
19th. My Birthday. Went to the clinic for a retest. Abandoned the idea of going to Harar for a day/night. Not far but wanted to focus on phone calls and messaging. I really perked from mid morning after initially feeling alone. So, phone calls to the family and FB messages really cheered me up. Went to the Cultural Restaurant for a coffee and decided that was where to have my birthday dinner.
In the end I had a Kitfo…by accident because altho I asked for and was given a menu, it was all in the Ethiopian alphabet and I didn’t understand any of it. Shared dinner with the drunk guy next to me but he bought all the drinks !! The meal wad delicious and only cost 5Gbp. Went back to hotel and had a great evening of drink and chat with a Fr/German guy, a friend of his who had missed his flight to Djibouti earlier, and the hotel owner. A tequila nightcap to end the evening. They tried to fix me up with a young lady but I was drunk and very tired !!! A Great Birthday tho’.
20th. Back to Kezira to try for pics of the Palace. Found a road that went over a road bridge from where there were better views. Unfortunately I was caught and arrested by a policeman. I knew it was illegal to photograph but my luck ran out. No English spoken but tone of voice and body language were very clear. Phone confiscated and we walked back to his sentry post. He looked at my pics and deleted the 2 or 3 that I had taken from the bridge. He asked his friend who had just woken up if any further action should be taken. They couldn’t be bothered; I don’t know how many times I apologised. After 15 mins I got my phone back and was allowed to walk away.
Took pics of the surrounding streets in case Mum recognised them. Took pics from the hotel roof. Wore my special ‘Dad’ shirt to go and have a drink as it was father’s day. A toast to the old man. Went to Adanech but no dinner as I had had some street side snacks.
21st. My last day in Dire Dawa. Took it easy. A coffee at the cultural restaurant . Walked to La Gare and bought my Addis bus ticket for the following day. Booked with Ethio bus. And checked my emails because the clinic was closed and the result was supposed to be emailed to me. A relaxing day; I enjoyed my time in Dire Dawa even though I wasn’t supposed to be there for my birthday. Disappointed not to have made it to Djibouti.