Holili/Marangu June 01 – 16

Have got nothing to say about the first week of June, apart from still getting over the shock of Evan’s sudden death. Of course in Nairobi his funeral took place on Sat 6th….first a service at the Greek church then a cremation. Sad that in these times of travel restrictions only his daughter Helen, of his four children, could attend. And my aunt Elizabeth of course. Even the number of people attending the funeral were limited to 15. Otherwise, for me it was the same old routine.

Decided I needed a change of scenery and on the 8th took up the invitation from Ernest to visit Marangu. Only about 15 miles away…a daladala ride to Himo, a short walk to the Marangu junction and daladala ride about 7 or 8 miles up the lower slopes of Mt Kilimanjaro to Marangu.

Arrived at Bismark Hut at 11:00 after a 25 minute walk up the steep road/hill that ultimately leads to the main Gate where the climbers start their ascent. Went down the hill mid afternoon with Ernest and found somewhere to have a drink. Up the hill again….if I thought that was tiring, there was worse to come !!! My room felt very cold and it took time to acclimitise to having to wear a T-shirt in bed and sleeping under a blanket. As for the cold shower….well…!!!

On the 9th I walked with Ernest and Robin to Kilasiya waterfall. We were escorted by the guy who managed the entrance/office to the falls. After much negotiation I got us all in for tsh 5000… less than 2 pounds. We were shown the entrance fees and it was 5000 for TZ residents and 20,000 for tourists…so we did ok. Needless to say, when we climbed back up he was nowhere to be seen…no doubt the visitors register hadn’t been filled in and he was enjoying a mbege somewhere !! Anyway, the descent and ascent were very steep and it was very slippery and I haven’t gasped for air like that in a long time. Beautiful and well worth the visit.

On the 10th, a long walk down the hill to Marangu village and along the Mwika road to Mamba village. Mamba means crocodile and I asked if there had once been crocs this high up the mountain…a vague yes was the answer. People go to Mamba village to see blacksmiths at work. Well, there wasn’t that much going…one little furnace….and when I was asked to pay some money to see very little, I just turned around and walked off. I left my 2 companions to placate the blacksmiths !!! My friends caught up with me 10 mins later down the road and I apologised for any problems I may have caused them. All fine they said. And we stopped in Marangu for a drink…

The 11th. Long walk..passed Kilasiya falls to some roadside waterfalls. On the way back we stopped at Serene hotel for a drink. The waitress was working at Mbezi Beach, Dar when I visited in Oct ’18. And Jangwani hotel where I stayed was next door to the Serene hotel where Rehema worked. Didn’t meet her then, but what a coincidence.

12th. Ernest and I walked up to the Gate to Kilimanjaro Nat Park…just something to do on a not very nice day. Further from Bismark to the Gate than from Marangu to Bismarck. Hard work. Very tiring.

13th. Couldn’t cope with another long walk. Caught daladala with Ernest n Robin to Kilema and walked to a hill where the views of Kili would’ve been spectacular had the mountain not been shrouded in cloud. So much red, clingy mud that I grew an inch in height as we walked !! Had a drink at Kilema junction and caught daladala back. Stopped at Serene where I showed Rehema my pics of Mbezi Beach and the fact that I had also had a fish n chip dinner at her hotel. The sun came out at 4:00…first sun in 4 days.

14th. A shortish walk walk passed Kilasiya falls to check out Kilimanjaro Lodge…but it was closed…due to corona and lack of guests. And back to Marangu to look for somewhere that sold coffee. Well, we found a brilliant cafe with great coffee at a giveaway price of tsh500…30p or less.

15th. A very short walk to Marangu village via Kibo hotel where my uncle Roger used to work over 30yrs ago. Finally met up with Freddie the manager who used to work with Roger. This was my last night at Bismark. I had given the owner money up frontfor food….so it wad all lovely local Chagga dished. Meat/fish and lots of bananas. The room cost 10000..the same as Holili…but Ernest had got it reduced from 15000.

16th. Was looking forward to getting back to the warmth of Holili. Walk down the hill with backpack was a lot easier !!! An hour later I was back in Holili. Got in same daladala as Mamka in Himo. A voice said … “hello James”. Am known as James…easier to pronounce and doesn’t need lots of explaining !!