First day of note was my birthday on the 19th. Lots of messages and great excuse to communicate with the family. A regular day made special by buying a nice bottle of Red wine produced in Dodoma..Dompo. went down very well with kiti moto !!!
Sat, heard very sad news that Monica’s uncle Gustaf died. Second bout of cancer…such a lovely man.
21st was Fathers day. Hadn’t realised until Gabriella texted me. Then Tor. Then I put a pic of me and Dad on FB and got lots of lovely feedback. At that point I had a total meltdown….just all got to me suddenly..being away from everyone. At least there was still some red wine left to have with dinner !!
On 24th I went to Arusha to extend my visa for the 3rd time. Didn’t even have to present any supporting docs this time – just handed over my passport – but it cost me a lot more ..tsh100,000…. about £35 ..but worth it for peace of mind. Met up with Edgar for an hour and a half; had a coffee. Collected passport and was able to get to Moshi in good time. Of course I went to Kaka’s for tandoori chicken and returned to Holili in the early evening.
On the 27th I went to Marangu again. Stayed on the Kilema road this time….near the Kilasiya falls at the Devota lodge/cottages. Costing 5000..or £1.75. Had dinner of chapati, greens, avocado for 2000… or 70p.
There was wedding reception taking place and noticed a goat being prepared for the feast. Called goat cake , it has to be part of the wedding celebrations otherwise in the Chagga culture you’re not properly married. The whole goat is bar b ad and the yucca leaves placed flat in the mouth for good luck. There is also a sponge type of cake at the reception. If the leaves are knotted And placed over a doorway for instance, guests aren’t welcome. The goat cake is called a Ndafu.
On the 28th walked with Ernest to Ngangu hill in the hope of seeing Kili. Glimpses..but too much cloud for a decent view. Walked back..beer along the way. Shattered. Dinner at Lulu’s again. This time she added beans and bananas. Tsh 3500..£1.30
29th took it easy. Cloudy so didn’t go all the way to Ngangu hill again. Early afternoon walked into Marangu and met Ernest for a very nice coffee. Back to Devota and around the corner for a kiti moto…nice enough but not nearly as good as Mamka’s.
30th. Not much cloud so decided to head for Ngangu hill. Waited ages for a dala dala and ad I saw the clouds increasing I thought I’d missed my chance. But no..Kili was in full view and I took lots of pics. Sat on the side of the hill for 3 hours ..very relaxing. On the way back I found a shortcut to the main road….prob saved a 25 min walk. Incredible thing….as I followed the shortcut a guy joined me and we talked as we walked. As we approached the tarmac he said he wanted to show his business. I said..you mean Dallas bar, just ahead of us. Yes, he said and asked how I knew the name. I said I was drinking there a couple of days ago. When I told Emil here in Dar that story, Emil said..wad his name George. I said yes it was actually!! How the hell….. It turned out Emil and George are good friends and have known each other since school !!! Back to my accommodation …showered…and walked into Marangu for a coffee and a beer. Dinner at Lulu’s and an early night.
1st July. Drizzly start to the day. Walked other side of Marangu with Ernest. Another steep climb. A beer on the way down. A nice bar/accomm….lovely gardens. Walked all the way back to Kilasiya this time. Dinner beans,greens, rice and banana. Knackered….early night.
2nd July. Awoke very refreshed. Rachel not there for b’fast. Back to Lulus for horribly weak coffee . Left at 11 for Bismark hut to meet Ernest. Quick tea at Rachel’s and reached Bismark at 12. We walked up to the main Gate to to Kili Nat park. Very tiring….but at least all downhill return. Stopped once for a Pilsner then usual coffee place in Marangu.
3rd. Returned to Holili. Dala dala all the way to the Himo stage…then quick trip to Holili. Didn’t have kiti moto dinner for a couple of days….too much beans and cabbage in Marangu.
4th to 5th….just waiting for Kenya news.
6th…finally announced that country opening up internally. Borders remain closed. Intl flights to begin Aug 1st.
Tues 7th went Kilema to book Dar express ticket for the 8th. Said lots of goodbyes to my b’fast ladies, shop where I bought my water, Mamka of course. Immigration guys. Mercy met me at the border with my Taveta possessions that fitted into my small backpack that I’d left there.
Left early morning to catch my bus to Dar….and that was it….my farewell to Holili that had become my home for 3 and half months due to Covid. What an experienced…never to be forgotten.
you do a lot of walking, don’t you? Where are you going now? BTW—I sent yu a FB friend request.