25th Nov’24…to Rwanda.
It took 7 hrs from Kahama to the border, arriving 12:15. I stepped off the bus and the money changers were ready for me. I’d previously checked the exchange rate and was happy to get 20,000Rwf for my 40,000Tzs. Took a boda across the waterfall and bridge to the Tz exit and Rwanda entry. Smoothly through.
Baggage contents check before being allowed to walk up to the waiting minibuses. I was ushered into a different minibus to that on my ticket, but I assumed they would sort it out between them. We were ready to leave by 13:00…but..all sorts of hold ups. The bus seems to provide numerous community services en route; there’s definitely no sense of urgency.
There were stops to collect post, to buy drinks, to buy apples, to buy bananas…and to pick up passengers. The many bus parks of course have to be stopped at, and that usually took about 10 mins. Although the clocks went back an hour, we still didn’t arrive until dark. The worst bit was getting right across Kigali to Nyabugogo bus stand and encountering lots of traffic and jams. So, over 6 hours from the boder, and it’s only about 150kms…tedious towards the end.
Although I’d changed 40,000Tsh at the border into Rwandan francs (approx rate 2:1, so I got 20,000Rwf), £12 wasn’t going to get me very far. The Stand is right across from Kaizen hotel and I new there were ATMs nearby. After about 5 failed attempts at 2 different banks, I managed to draw out 200,000Rwf…£118. I wonder if there is a 200,000 withdrawal limit ?
I checked in; the room which was big and comfortable looking, with a large balcony, cost 30,000Rwf..about £18. This time there was even a table and chair, which there wasn’t last year.
I showered quickly then went across the road to New Orleans bar and drank 3 Primus beers ( small bottles i.e. 500ml)!! There’s a little restaurant nearby and I remembered from last time that they made excellent chapatis…so I bought 2 to take away. That was my dinner…they were enough…I just wasn’t hungry. I bought a small bottle of vodka and a big bottle of water from an off licence, for my room.
At least I made it to Kigali. Long, long trip from Kahama, but I wasn’t stressing as I knew where everything was from having been to the same location a year ago.
Tues 26th Nov.
Very comfortable bed and a good nights sleep. An 08:15 knock on the door, and someone holding my breakfast. I told him I didn’t want to eat it in my room and would be going up to the restaurant presently to eat it there. I think I confused him a bit. Probably they don’t want people there that early as a lot of bar area cleaning goes on. The reason I used the restaurant for breakfast last year was that I didn’t have a table or chair in my room and didn’t want to be sitting on my bed eating.
After breakfast and a bit of relaxation, I went on a gentle walkabout. I went down a side road and round and up towards the CBD. I was actually looking for somewhere to have a coffee. About 3 quarters of the way up the hill I found Honey restaurant and had a very nice masala coffee. I spent over an hour there , then back down and back to Kaizen.
Across from my room, on the hill and above New Orleans was Ishema bar….a very local bar. They probably never had a ‘tourist’ visit them but it was a great experience and one guy spoke some Swahili. I had a big bottle of Mutzig then went to Vision Petit bar for their traditional potato dish which I sampled on my last night last year.
It’s roast potatoes basically, coated in nice spices and served with onions and chillies.
I had 3 potatoes for 900Rwf..about 60pence…tasty but I could’ve done with the potatoes being cooked a bit more. Had a great chat with the waiter Prince who spoke good English and had only been in the job a couple of weeks. The dish is called Irish potatoes…the standard white potatoes. They were washed down with a Mutzig.
The 3 potatoes were very filling. I went to my room via the off licence where I bought water and a soda to add to the vodka. The Kigali hills look nice at night with all the house lights on.
Weds 27th Nov
This time I gave in and accepted the breakfast in my room. Actually, I put my table and chair out on my balcony and enjoyed eating and having the nice view.
I decided to go to the CBD on the hill, but by boda, and not have the long uphill walk. With a bit of help I got a boda for 700Rwf, instead of 2,000Rwf that another one wanted to charge. Interesting to be on the road amongst that whole melee of motorbikes.
I wandered around for an hour, taking in the crowds and looking at the shops. I failed again at 3 ATMs, but was able to draw out 200,000Rwf at the 4th attempt. There was nothing else to achieve so I walked down to Honey restaurant and lingered over a masala chai.
It’s much easier walking downhill all the way to Nyabugogo!! I called into the bus stand to check on transport options to Kibuye. I had definitely decided on visiting the same towns, but going clockwise as opposed to anticlockwise like last year.
My room was almost ready. Oh, the water heater wasn’t working so I had to have a cold shower. I put my spare time to good use…and any other spare time over the last week…by catching up/updating my domain blog. Have reached/posted to. Nov 16th
As Ishema bar was quite fun, I headed there around 4pm. It was closed due to some sort of ‘issue ‘ so I went to New Orleans bar which was only 2 mins straight back down the hill.
I had my first Virunga, a 650ml Virunga Gold costing 1,500Rwf…or about 90p. The good thing is that the bar faces Kaizen and I can still pick up the wifi. From there to Vision Petit for an Irish potato dinner, but only 2 this time as I struggled with the 3 potatoes !! Simple and nice and washed down with a Virunga Gold.
At around 6:30 there was heavy thunder and an absolutely torrential downpour which lasted about an hour. The timing was good, enabling me to buy 2 chapatis on the way to the hotel and to stay dry.
I had asked for the water heater to be fixed…but that didn’t happen !! I went upstairs to the rooftop restaurant/bar, bought myself a small Primus and waited for the live band to start playing. I listened to a handful of songs then went to bed. The music was very pleasant and provided a good ending to my 2 and a bit days in Kigali.
I thoroughly enjoyed Kigali the second time around and I was so much more relaxed.