Kilifi
Tues 1st Oct .
A relaxed start to the day. Al Wahim wasn’t due to leave until 08:00, but in fact we left at 08:30…just a minor delay. I had a front seat, and through the Tsavo section I saw one giraffe, one ostrich, two zebras and gazelles of course. A large gazelle ran across the road right in front of us, and if the driver hadn’t braked , there could’ve been a collision. The gazelle did a magnificent big leap to cross the wide ditch…impressive.

I was lucky for comfort and space in having a slim young girl sitting next to me until Voi, and an empty seat for much of the way to Kilifi. Six and a quarter hours, arriving before 3pm. Not too bad. I had to have my customary juice (this time tamarind) at Nuus, then on to check into a hotel.
I tried Watergate for a change. Rooms are 1,500 incl Bfast, so a much better price than Titanic. I felt sort of sad because I’ve been using Titanic for many years. No. 20 on the second floor with a balcony facing the road, but would noise be a problem…?
I had to go back to the main road to DTB bank to draw some cash, then back again and over to the Kilifi Club.
I had one beer whilst facing Kilifi creek and left just before sunset. I ate beans and chapati at Apache Café,  just around the corner. I went back to my room thinking I’d have a shower before going across the road to the Police Admin/Milano’s, but suddenly felt very tired and didn’t go out at all although it was only about 7pm.

Verdict on the room. Very comfortable. Problem is that across the road is a church and the Bar. The church service ended around 9pm, so that wasn’t a problem; I don’t know what a Sunday morning would be like !! No, huge issue is the noise from the Bar…very loud…going on until 2am.

Wed 2nd Oct.
I only slept okay because I was so tired, otherwise the bar noise is way too much. I had my breakfast of mandazi, omelette, casava, watermelon and juice. The tea had a strange flavour.

I had contacted Bruce Jackson through FB/messenger because we seemed to have mutual Forest Row friends and he lived in Kilifi. I had a reply from Bruce saying he was actually in Kilifi and could we meet at Salty’s at 2pm.
I walked from town to the beach at Baobab and along passed B10. I lay in the sun for an hour and continued to Salty’s. Of course I had never met Bruce, but he passed me walking along the beach. Then when sitting right next to him at the bar, it was only when one of the barstaff acknowledged him as Bruce that we greeted each other. A couple of hours great chat with lots in common.

I caught a boda back to the hotel. After a shower I went to Apache Indian cafe and had pojo and chapati. From there to the Police Admin to await Maina for around 4:30. We had a good catch-up for a couple of hours and then I took a half finished bottle of Captain Morgan spirit to my room. Earlier I had bought some bananas to snack on. Hmm…the noise from the bar was very loud and although I dozed off eventually, I was woken up at midnight, and the music wasn’t switched off until 2am.

Thurs 3rd Oct.
Not a good nights sleep. I went down for breakfast ( a sausage instead of an omelette this time), and asked to be moved to a room at the back of the hotel. First I was told to come back at about 11, then after 12, but in the meantime I had packed my stuff ready to move.
I had a little walkabout in town and ended up at a new café opposite Titanic where I lingered over a latte. From there I walked to the Kilifi Club and down to the beach. Well, coral really,  but fun to explore…
On the way back up I slid off a sandy angled paving slab and landed squarely on my feet. That hurt the bottom of my feet but my knees were not affected thankfully.

About 12:30 my room was ready. I got settled in, and less than an hour later started the walk to meet up with Maina for mnazi. After a couple of wrong turns I arrived. Maina in turn arrived 10 minutes later. A lovely couple of hours spent chatting…with the other people in the bar as well. It’s been a year since I was last there. Maina gave me a present of a Mboko…a little gourd drinking vessel especially for mnazi. My last one is with Mercy but it got infested with tiny termites.

I couldn’t face walking back so I got a boda. I showered in my new hotel room. Apache Indian didn’t allow pilau without the meat so I had a chips mayai. From there I went to Milano’s for a beer, and back to my room for an early night.

Fri 4th Oct.
The tea at breakfast had a more normal tea flavour; I wonder if on the first two days I was served camel tea with weird tasting camel milk ??

I took it easy and arranged to meet Bruce at about 2pm. So in the meantime I walked over the bridge and down to the beach on the other side. I walked towards Mnarani and sat in the sun for a little bit.
Back across the bridge and to African Pavilion which is at the ramp used by the ferry in the ‘old days’. I only stayed for a short time…took some pics…and returned hoping to buy some chevda from Naivas.  However, Bruce phoned and said he was already in Milano’s…about 1:30, so a bit earlier than planned. I raced over there and spent a good 2 hours chatting and drinking a couple of Tuskers with him. There was some very loud preaching unfortunately from the church next door which necessitated us shouting for much of the time  !!

I went to Apache for beans, as there was no pojo, with rice for a change. Back to my room for a shower and over to Milano’s. Late afternoon and the DJ was starting his music session. Slightly unfortunate that was about the time that Phil chose to call, and although initially it wasn’t a struggle,  after nearly an hour and with the music getting progressively louder, we had to call it quits.
Over the road to my room where I finished the last of my 10 litres of water ( it lasted 4 days). I was glad I had bought another litre and a half to get me through to Saturday morning.

Sat 5th Oct.
I took my time with breakfast and sorting my backpack. I waited for my phone to charge then walked the 5 minutes to the matatu stage. I reached there just before 10:00 and straight away claimed a front seat as I was the first there. I had no choice but to observe all the activities around the stage as we didn’t leave until 11:00.
Just over an hour and a half to Mombasa was good going, and which meant good progress is being made with the new road between Mtwapa and Nyali. The end of the line was the Buxton stage, which suited me as I just needed to cross the main road to the road entrance to Tudor. I recognised the area as I stayed near there 2 or 3 years ago. It was getting on for 1pm, and the plan was to get to John’s around 2pm, so I called into the New Buxton Inn to relax.

The combination of travel/heat/beer hit me and I felt tired but relaxed. Over an hour and a half later, John came by but couldn’t stop as his car engine was over heating, but at least I got a lift to his Flat.

What a nice Flat in the area called Tudor. Big, 3 bedrooms, 13th floor, a big balcony and great view of Nyali bridge and Mombasa city. After a while we went to a shop nearby for some precooked maharage, to which John added vegetables. That plus rice was our dinner. So, a good catch up was had.

Sun/Mon 6 & 7th
I had a very good sleep considering it was the first night in a new bed. I just had toast and tea for breakfast. After midday I was going to head for Kilindini Pub which opens at 2pm at weekends. John needed to meet with someone in town. By catching the Docks matatu I could get within a street of the Pub. John got off at Posta.

I took my time and reached the Pub at about 2:30. Spent a nice afternoon with Clarence mainly, but Maura popped her head in every now and again. Sadly it seems that the Pub is still due for demolition around the start of next year to make way for a flyover. John joined us at 5:30.
We left in a tuk tuk at about 6:30; I was dropped off to look for somewhere showing the Spurs match. The first place was nice but didn’t sell alcohol, so I walked fast to Buxton Inn where I watched the match (which we lost from being 2:0 up) and where I could have a couple of beers.
That was it…and back to the flat for dinner and a good nights sleep.

Monday 7th was an explore the City day. I caught the matatu and got off at Posta. I went to Love & Joy for a special tea. I then visited a couple of travel agents on Makadara Road to enquire about the Kisumu Safari train from Nairobi. The answers I got ranged from …it doesn’t exist, to it only runs as far as Suswa. I left a bit confused, thinking I would get a categorical answer from them.

I stepped out of the shop and immediately saw Ali from Queens cafe in front of me. Although Queens is closed, I’ve stayed at Ali’s hotel called Sea Shells on Lamu a few times, where I’ve got a very good rate…900bob the last couple of times. What are the chances of bumping into someone I know in that split second in a big city..??

I continued down to Fort Jesus and sat in my usual spot overlooking the harbour. Oh, earlier I popped into the Ethiopian Airlines office to say hi, and to ask if I should be getting notifications on my App regarding flight offers. I think I need to download the App again and click on ‘notigications’….
I called into Stavrose for a samosa and bhajias snack.  Considering how I raved about the place earlier in the year, this time it was very disappointing.

From there I meandered my way towards Tudor.  It was very hot and I had to stop half way at the Buxton Inn for some refreshment. From there it’s 25 minutes to John’s flat. After a nice dinner and long chat, it was time for bed…

Tues 8th.
I had been enjoying having toast and honey and a tea for breakfast. Just for a few days I also ate one of the 3 oranges I bought when at Kilindini Pub from a lady street seller. A couple of years ago I bought a mango from her when I was waiting for the pub to open.

I walked to Nyali bridge and caught a matatu to Nyali shopping centre. I had various tasks to accomplish. I visited the helpful travel agent from a couple of years ago to ask about the Kisumu Safari train.  She immediately confirmed it does run once a week, but there wasn’t a booking online portal and tickets can only be bought from Nairobi central station. So that decided it for me, I would head to Nairobi on Friday.  Finally some clarity…

I put some money on mpesa. I went to make enquiries at both Duniya hotel and Tulia Backpackers regarding staying over during the first two weeks of Nov. The prices were similar…around 4,000 per day…but I was leaning towards Tulia. In both cases further negotiation on price would be required.
From there it’s only about 10 minutes to Reef. I checked that Richard and Margaret had been allocated sea view rooms. I also met and chatted with the hotel taxi driver; he said I could go with him to Moi airport and the cost payable on return to the Reef would be 2,500…or £15.
I sat on the beach for an hour; it’s not looking its best at the moment as there’s a lot of seaweed. I then went to mama siti for a couple of samosas and viazi karai and tea. The samosas were very average. From there it was to Rubis…’Kenol’…for a couple of beers.

The matatu back to Buxton stage was smooth enough. Then, it was a matter of crossing the main road to Buxton Inn for a couple of Balozi and watch DP Gachagua in parliament with his defence of his impeachment. It was getting dark when I reached the flat, but I knew John would be working late anyway. Most of his work is online from the flat. We had githeri for dinner.

Wed 9th.
Another day in the City. Getting there would be quick by matatu, so I took my time and did some shirt washing. I alighted at Posta and went nearby to Love & Joy for my tea. I made a short visit the Fort Jesus area. On the way back I stopped at the restaurant near Duncort, and although they had no snacks, I had a tea anyway.

I drew money from DTB on Moi Ave and went to Fantasy bar for a couple of beers. I always have to pay Fantasy a visit. Just prior to that I went to Jundan ( I stayed once in their rooms ) for samosas and tea. After all that I walked back along the main road…tiring in the heat…and insted of Buxton Inn, I went next door for a change to Railways Garden. The beers are 30bob more expensive but it’s a nicer bar with a nice breeze blowing through it.
And back to the flat to wait for John to finish work and to prepare dinner.

Thurs 10th.
I’m sleeping really well at John’s…which is fantastic if course. It was the turn of Nyali, so over to the Bridge and a matatu to Naivas. I first walked to the Haller Park entrance to check entry fees (1,800bob). I’m glad I went because I also made a note of the feeding times for giraffes and hippos.

I popped into Carrefour and bought chevda. I called in at Tulia to firm up room prices and ask if John could book on my behalf using his genius status on booking.com. The answer to the latter was yes, and in the evening John made the booking for me. As long as there isn’t a hitch it’ll save me a lot of money; it should be okay as we got confirmation emails.

From Tulia I went to Reef hoping to see Afnan, but she wasn’t starting work until 3pm and that was too late for me. I had a walk along the beach and then walked to mama siti for a tea and a chapati.  Then it was my customary visit to ‘Kenol’ before catching the matatu back to Tudor. Once again I went to Railway Gardens…actually,  much nicer than Buxton Inn.

I couldn’t be too late getting back to John’s as I was treating him and Ryan to dinner. Actually we went by car, although it was only about 10 minutes walk away. Suited me as I’d done enough walking that day. The restaurant was called Arif and the food was delicious. Ryan and I had Shawarma, while John had a Znz pizza. We shared a plate of chips and everyone was happy. Back to the flat and an earlyish night as I had to be awake at 06:00  to get ready for my trip to Nairobi.
So, I spent 6 days at John’s flat, which was incredibly convenient. I learned that his wife Anita died (early 40s) from a heart attack following another illness, last December. Very sad. And needless to say, I saved money by not having to stay in a hotel.