15th. Was in no hurry to leave Watamu as wasn’t meeting Mark until midday. Caught a matatu to Gede junction then a shuttle matatu to Kilifi…which only took 50 minutes from Gede. Checked into the Titanic; Rehema was still on reception. Got a nice room on the 3rd floor for 1,000kes, excl a breakfast charge of 350. Wasn’t long to wait until Mark arrived by bus from Malindi. We went to Village Dishes for a snack and a catch up.
We walked to Kilifi club at the mouth of the creek where we saw a nice sunset. Back in town we stopped at the AP Canteen for a dinner of maharage and chapati and rice, and returned to the hotel.
16th. Our walk around town was curtailed by a sandal strap breaking. After that was fixed and following a rest at the hotel and a snack lunch at Apache..another new discovery…we caught a tuk tuk to Salty’s. Such a lovely location. We lingered over one drink…a Balozi form and a coffee for Mark. We had dinner at AP Canteen again. Earlier in the day I bought a small bottle of whisky which we shared on the balcony outside our rooms.
17th. We walked to Makuti Villas just off the main north/south road through the the town. Just to check it out…3000 for a single , but it had a nice pool. We had a tasty tamarind juice on the way back to the hotel. I had a laundry break, then we walked to Kilifi club; I’ve discovered a shortcut…saves a few minutes! We stopped at AP for a drink then had dinner at Apache.
Sun 18th. We had breakfast at Village dishes. No hurry to get going to Nyali as we couldn’t check into Bustani until after 12:00. It was a stuttering start, so the journey took an hour and a half. We arrived Nyali just before midday , so we broke the journey at Rubis!! We took a tuk tuk to Bustani as we had our luggage with us. We were given 2 different rooms from the original plan…but they were fine. Broken toilet seats…but that’s normal !! Mark took no. 75 on the second floor and I took 25 on the ground floor…spitting distance from my usual 29.
We had a snack at Hideout…part of Bustani…a bit expensive. After 4:00 we headed to Maasai beach bar for their music night. The Jambo Africa band had their regular Sunday slot. The electricity in my room cut off just before 11pm so I didn’t have a particular comfortable night; it was too warm. The power came back on at 06:00.
Mon 19th. We took a matatu for 50bob to Mtwapa and had a short walk to the Moorings. It’s a really nice floating bar on the edge of the Creek. So one just walks down onto it. Very relaxing and pretty location. We went shopping at Naivas…bought steak and noodles basically for dinner, which I cooked in my room. Had been to Kigothos earlier for one beer; their price had gone up to 300 from 250.
Tues 20th. Mark was meeting a friend in Nyali so I walked to Pirates-kenyatta public beach-and met up with Thomas at his beach banda. I bought some steak for myself and vegs from street stalls. Back to Bustani and met Lewis who had come down from Eldoret. I walked to Maasai Nyali…across the road from the beach bar. Very nice place; had never been there before. Dinner and bed.
Wed 21st. Mark went to meet a friend at Mkomani so I took the opportunity to go to Shanzu to the GoCarting track where a WWII rebuilt/renovated DC-3 that had flown from NZ and landed in Mombasa Airport in about ’95. Gabriella sent me the story about how it was bought at auction by 2 Swiss guys, and is now a cafeteria and convention centre. I didn’t get to see the inside as the complex opened at 3:30 and I got there at 10:00. I wouldn’t have paid the entrance fee anyway!!
I discovered it was only a 10 minute walk to beach. I found myself north of Whitesands. After being propostioned by a pimp on behalf of his beautiful lady friend, I walked all the way to Pirates…stopping for a swim along the way…and on to the Nyali shopping centre. I sorted my mpesa and bought sausages for dinner. In the late afternoon we went to Maasai beach bar to listen to Jambo Africa band again.
Thurs 22nd. I went to Pesh Nyali for tea/mahamri. I’ll look for a better place in future. Walked back to Bustani and then on to the beach that requires climbing over a gate to get onto the beach itself. Had a swim and then back via the road as the tide had come in so I couldn’t walk along the beach passed Voyager and Maasai beach. I stopped for a snack at a banda near the beach, of pojo samosas. Later in the afternoon we went to Maasai beach bar again for music, but a different band…the Generation band…who were actually better musically. Excellent. I had precooked my remaining sausages so it didn’t take long to prepare my dinner.
I forgot to mention that of course on Mon 19th it was Queen Elizabeth II funeral. Although I wasn’t glued to the TV, I saw enough of highlights later in the day to get a real feel for the momentous occasion that it was. So, a wonderful stay in Nyali, and the next day we were due to go Mombasa City.