Kuching
Thurs 30th Oct
Once I woke at about 4am I couldn’t get back to sleep properly. I packed and showered and Addy kindly gave me a lift to the airport at 08:30. Very technically clever check in process; I didn’t want to make a mistake, so I got help..!!
Because my booking reference is the same for both flights, my rucksack gets transferred automatically onto the KL to KCH plane. If not the same reference, you must get your luggage to transfer to the onward flight. My 10:50 flight was delayed by 45 minutes.
The flight was only an hour and 10 minutes. Insufficient signs at KL airport…only to baggage reclaim. I saw an arrow to Transfer. I saw a flight information screen saying my next flight from gate J7. I was at K and no indication where J was. Then it said flight boarding. Mild panic began to set in and I started running; I had asked where the J gates were. It was quite a long way and on reaching there I found that my flight was delayed anyway…
So, we left KL around 2pm. Just over hour and a half to Kuching. I had to go through another immigration which is specific to Sarawak…a bit like going through Zanzibar immigration. I didn’t have to wait long for my rucksack.
Outside the airport I had some difficulty connecting with the Grab taxi. After over 10 minutes he arrived and was very helpful during the 23 minute drive into the city at a cost of 23RM…just over £2.
There were a number of hotels in the area where I was dropped off but I restricted my search as it was drizzling slightly. I settled on Quok Pin at around 70RM ..or.£12. The room was okay, but had a musty smell…probably because it didn’t have a window.
By now it was getting on for 5pm and I was getting hungry. I checked out a couple of bars, then the Tandoori Palace and their signs for biryani caught my eye. I had an amazing chicken biryani…all meat, no bones…for 26RM, or £4.50. At the end I was brought a glass of warm water, and wasn’t sure if I was supposed to rinse my fingers in it; but no, it was for drinking.!!
I liked the area where I ended up. After looking at a couple more bars, I went back to where I started…Havana. They were cheapest and my bucket of six Tigers cost 50RM. A guy came into the bar with a live parrot or pigeon on his head…
I really struggled to finish the beers, then went back to my room.
Fri 31st Oct.
I had an okay sleep. I asked if I could move to a room with a window, but the hotel was fully booked. I had my tea at Green Hill corner nearby, but it wasn’t as good as all the others.
I found Sim Clinic , but they didn’t do vaccinations. I was given 3 options of places and I decided to walk to Borneo Medical centre…being the nearest one. I took me well over an hour.
I was dealt with very efficiently. From start to finish not more than 45 minutes…registration, blood pressure, temperature and a short consultation. I paid the charge of 165RM ..about £30…and went back to the nurse for my vaccination. The same whooping cough vaccine cost more like £45 on Langkawi, so I was very pleased with the outcome.
I tried booking a Grab back into town. The first one was stuck at the airport and after over 30 minutes waiting, I cancelled. The next one took over 15 minutes to arrive, which didn’t really matter, except the Green Hill corner restaurant closed around 14:30 and I missed out on Laksa…tomorrow.
I went walkabout and found myself at the Sarawak river ( well, only 5 minutes away). I heard the word ‘race’ and was told there were a series of row boat races, so I hung around… The race lasted no more than 10 minutes with a dozen longboats (long ‘canoes’) competing.
The Sarawak Regatta is a historic annual boat racing event held from October to November along the Sarawak River in Kuching. Originating in 1872 during the James Brooke era to replace tribal conflicts with friendly competition, the regatta now symbolizes unity, tradition, and cultural pride.
The highlight is the fierce battle for the prestigious ‘Raja Sungai’ (King of the River) title in the 30-paddler bidar longboat race. When I went back to the river after dinner the races were still going on.
I went looking for an alternative dinner venue and ended up at the Ceylonese restaurant just at the bottom of the road from my hotel. Again I had a biryani, but very different from yesterday’s. Quite delicious…19RM.
I popped down to the river area again just to take in the atmosphere, especially as the weather had improved and the sun was out. There was another longboat race. I waited until after 5pm to go back to Havana because I didn’t know what time happy hour starts. Apparently it’s from 3 till 8. I bought a bucket and sat on a comfortable sofa to write up the events of the day.
I finished my beers to some very loud music…I think they do karaoke in the evening. I went back to my room, picking up some crisps along the way.
Sat 1st Nov.
Phil had kept talking for over an hour around midnight until after 1am so my sleep was patchy after that. After I woke up I washed my stripey shirt. Then I went to Green Hill for my tea which still wasn’t great.
Back at Quok Pin I asked if there was an outside area where I could hang my shirt…but, no. I walked to the Plaza Merdeka…large shopping centre…to find the CelcomDigi store. I found it eventually and the young lady kindly extended my credit for another month for an extra 30RM. Hopefully that will last me until I leave for NZ.
More or less at the bottom of the road was the bridge across the Sarawak River. An interesting bridge in that it curves and bends its way over the river. A good view of the city, and I relaxed on the other side for about 30 minutes; I had my shirt with me which I hung out to dry a little.
I walked to a slightly fancier part of town where the Hilton, Pullman etc hotels are. Then back to the river where the longboat races were still taking place. I watched one then went to Green Hill for a Laksa. However, even at 12:30 the laksas were no longer being cooked; apparently they are a morning food. I went next door and had a Mee…thin noodles, a little veg, and a some pork…only 6RM.
I walked back in the direction of the shopping centre in a bid to find a travel agency where I could enquire about the etiquette of booking bus tickets. I had another tour of the shopping centre..nothing. I went towards the river and saw a couple of historic, small old buildings from the 19th Century.
Back along the waterfront where there was a lot going on …lots of music…well it was the Kraft Festival Borneo Sarawak for over a week. They love their festivals here. So many families enjoying the activities…it’s nice to see.
No sign of any travel agents, and I went back to my room for a shower. After 16:15 I was over at Havana where the lady was still cleaning up from the previous night. I waited 10 minutes for my bucket…no problem.
I was on my phone. I spoke a bit with the manager. I felt I needed to take something to my room. I stopped at the Ceylonese restaurant and asked for a small cheese nan. Small was bigger than I expected and cost 14.80. or £2.50….plus a can of Tiger. Well, I managed to get through it in my room…it’s a meal in itself. Packed with cheese…absolutely delicious with the dips provided.
Sun 2nd Nov
I went downstairs and paid for another night. I also went online and booked a bus trip to Miri, up the coast just before Brunei, for Tues 4th. The cost was 109RM..about £20..for a 13 hour journey. I went for my morning tea, which for some reason was the most expensive I’ve had in Malaysia…at 3.60RM…beating the 3.50RM in George Town. I didn’t argue !!
Only 5 minutes away is Taman Perpaduan…a lovely park with a couple of lakes. I was there for about 30 minutes. It was hitting 12 o’clock so I headed to the restaurant before they closed or they ran out of food.
I had a normal Laksa for 10RM..£1.75. Noodles, chicken, prawn, beansprouts, in a soup…delicious. Back to my room to send a few messages and shower. Then into the narrow streets looking for a travel agent. I found a coffee shop that also did tours, and I got the confirmation that cross country buses left from the terminus and didn’t come into town. So I knew categorically I needed to find a hotel near the bus terminal to catch the 07:30 on Tuesday.
From there I just wandered around. I went to the river front and walked half way over the bridge. I popped into the shopping centre looking for a café. Once outside, I found a café where I had a coffee. I finished it but it was very sweet and made my stomach feel uncomfortable.
As Havana was closed, I needed to find somewhere else for an afternoon beer. I went to the Drunk Monkey first. The lady was very helpful and suggested I try the Jak Ma’An just down the road. Incredibly, they did a bucket of Tigers for 40RM. So, that was it…I sat there, and they had wifi. A relaxing end to the day.
On the way back to my room I stopped at the Ceylonese restaurant and bought a small cheese nan to go with my Tiger can. The end of a successful day. One more day in Kuching .
Mon 3rd Nov
Still can’t get the a/c just right. I packed and went out for my tea. Back to Kuok Pin to check out for 10:30. I booked a Grab to take me to Transit Inn, next to the bus terminal. A 25 minute drive costing 13RM..just over £2.
I checked into a room with no window; I figured..airport, bus terminal..what is there to see ?!!. And then there was a torrential downpour, so I was thankful that I had made the right decision to move out of the city.
I had a tea next door whilst waiting for the rain to subside. I checked out the bus terminal a few minutes walk away. Was told I needed to be there half an hour before departure. Also, I needed to show my email confirmation and get a boarding pass at a cost of 1RM. So, am all set for tomorrow.
I ordered a Grab to go back into the city. It took a while because of heavy traffic but I had a good chat with the driver. He dropped me off near Jak Ma’ans. Bought my 40RM bucket, then heavy rain again. I drank 4 of the 6 cans in the bar and had to leave at 3pm because they were preparing for a large function.
I went walkabout; the city was empty of people now that the festival was over. The heavy rain probably kept people away as well. I ordered a Grab to take me back to the Tourist Inn. I had rice and 2 veg dishes for 6RM nearby. I went to my room by 17:30…very early.