Tues 31st. Left flat 07:00. To the cafe to meet Alex..Was early for the bus. Supposed to leave at 09:00 but didn’t leave till 09:45 ..no great surprise. Quick trip..nearly 3.5 hrs to Mokowe. 3hrs 50mins and I was in Lamu Town…so that includes the boat ferry. A few checkpoints along the way but didn’t have to get off bus or show ID. Checked into Seashells . Usual room not available until next day. The one for 1 night not particularly nice. Bathroom water didn’t drain properly. Door lock was hard work. Mosquito net…never mind. Wandered around taking a few pics. And then back into the usual routine of Police canteen Sunsail.
Feb 1st. Moved rooms. 3rd time in the one I like. Took it easy. Located La Dulce Toro cafe just around the back…for future reference. Maharage n rice this time not chapati…made a nice change…a bit more expensive; rice always is. Love my view from the hotel roof. Blue water one direction. Rooftops etc the other way. Handy drying lines for clothes. Ice Cool Menthol was the name of the soap bar; I thought it was a sweet but the small print definitely said wash soap.
Shop next door to Lamu Palace htl selling alcohol so i could take something back to my room if required. Obviously cheaper than hotels but a small bottle of vodka even cheaper than the police canteen.
Thurs 2nd. Walked to Shela. Went on the long beach. Lots of donkeys. Only a quick swim as too shallow. Nicer swim near Peponi..deeper water…easier to keep eye on possessions. Walked back as well. Watched UK guy painting a boat scene. Was tired. Relaxed. Police canteen n Sunsail.
Fri 3rd. A Sanura soap episode was being filmed by the museum. Michael, a member of Taveta crew that worked with me, said hello. Walked to Flipflopi project. Original boat being renovated. The extrusion of waste plastics is better and the end product is much stronger. That boat was the one going to Zanzibar when I saw it in Shimoni Jan/Feb ’19.
Early afternoon discovered Coco Jambo restaurant around back of Fort. Felt peckish..looked nice..so had a Plate of bajias. 10 of them with a nice chilli sauce for 50bob…excellent value. Still had dinner (githeri)later at police canteen. Sunsail for coffee.
Sat 4th. Had a nice latte at La Dulce Toro cafe. Very nice garden area. 2 more of the TV crew from Taveta said hello. I felt like a film star! Had to make way for donkeys in narrow Street; luckily lots of doorways to step into.
Sun 5th. Set myself a Challenge to walk Mararani to locate Kalama. About 4 yrs ago I got talking to him on the bus to Lamu. Bumped into him day 1 but didn’t have his phone no. Found my way into dunes and someone showed me to Kalama’s house. He was on a job on Manda island. Relaxed at his home. Got his number. Had delicious deep fried whole fish. Was nervous about the bones but ate it carefully and it was Ok.
Nice walk back…Once I found my way through the dunes and back to the sea front, it was OK. Decided on dinner of maharage n chapati at Coco Jambo. Twice as expensive at 150bob than police canteen but much more tasty. Went to Lamu House Htl for Happy hour . Only Jua Kali craft beer on offer at 300ksh. 330ml bottle. Popcorn was a nice touch. Worth a try…tasty..but won’t go back. On to Petleys Inn for one beer; saw Ali the barman. Watched Spurs beat Man C 1:0. Nice moon over the water.
Mon 6th. Took it easy day. Walked around more of the backstreets. More fresh chillis from the market. Githeri again at the police canteen.
Tues 7th. Contacted Kalama. Agreed to meet at Dudu Villas. If people knew it means Insect villas perhaps they wouldn’t stay there !!! Had been passed before and I remembered how to get there. Went in and waited. Kalama came and took me over the dunes to Mararani. Really built up in over 2 years. Went on a mnazi bar crawl. Meeting his friends. Went to 3 bars. I probably drank more mnazi than I intended but kept the intake low. I contributed to 4 bottles…100 each. Some large fish cut in half, flattened and dried in sun on makuti roof….interesting to see. After a couple of hours or so Kalama escorted me back to the main path along the seafront. Of course it was only early afternoon but attacks do take place. Refreshed in the hotel room then back to the usual routine of police canteen and Sunsail.
Wed 8th. A chill day. Coffee at La Dulce Toro…others included Finns/Dane/white Kenyan. Watched filming of a Sanura scene in the Fort Square. Githeri dinner
Thurs 9th. Bfast usual place. Mangrove had become a bit expensive (had stopped going there) but I did go there for a tea..sat upstairs…in the afternoon. Bought my Mombasa Raha ticket to Kilifi for the next day. More exploring around the backstreets. Chilling on Seashells roof. Said goodbye to all at police canteen and Sunsail as my last evening. Sesame seed biscuits after my evening coffee…again a daily routine of 2 of them like a dessert…cost 20bob.
10 days in Lamu..loved it. I didn’t go to the Floating Pub this time; I couldn’t be bothered with the negotiations on price…have been there a few times and was therefore happy to save the money. Partly was waiting to hear if I could stay Mambrui but didn’t work out. Very happy with that visit.