I woke early on Sat morning and fortunately b’fast was being served from 06:30. Bonny came to collect me at 07:00 and take me to Mombasa airport. I was very grateful for the lift because although I’d downloaded an uber type of app, I wasn’t confident about using it. And Bonny was depriving himself of sleep !! Got to the airport a bit early but airports always interesting and now I had a book to read.
We left at 10:00 and the flight was 45 mins. Was pleased to have a window seat so I could take pics and film. I chose to spend the extra and fly because friends and family warned of the dangers of Al-shabaab on the stretch between Garden and Lamu. I’m sure it would’ve fine, but for the sake of about 60pounds return, it was worth the speed and comfort. We touched down near a fancy little airport building; it was a hut the last time I flew in nearly 30 years ago. That time Dad paid for me and Monica to fly as he couldn’t afford the rehearsal dinner cost at our wedding. I think he thought he would be buying chips kuku for everyone and possibly ugali !!!
One lands on Manda island when going to Lamu, so I collected my backpack and caught the ferry to Lamu town. A lovely approach by sea to Lamu. I had plenty of time but didn’t mind when someone latched onto me and said he could take me to a nice hotel. Checked one out but wasn’t impressed. Then, was passing the Lamu Palace htl which I knew from 2019 because it was the only place with WiFi, and decided to at least ask. Agreed a good rate of 3,000 – excl bfast – and decided to stay there. Nice room. Hit and miss wifi. But right on the waterfront. Showered,walked around a bit. Reacquainted myself with the police canteen and had a couple of beers. Went to a restaurant the other side of town and had pojo and rice which wasn’t the same quality as my visit in 2019. Had a drink at Petleys before returning to the hotel to watch some football and then bed.
On Sunday, after an early bfast I walked to Shela and the beach. Oh , my b’fast was served with a dead fly on my plate but being truly British I didn’t complain!!! Very hot…nice to swim on a deserted beach…no coral, just sand underfoot. Popped into Police canteen. Had beans n chapatis nearby…Very cheap at equivalent of 35pence.
Mon 14th. Walked to the beach at Shela but caught a boat back from Peponi for a 100 bob; proper ferry type price instead of 400 or 500 bob. Lovely view of the shore and of course it saved over a half hour walk in the heat.
Had heard of the floating pub, so after showering I got a boat over to it for 400. Didn’t question the price as I figured it would be worth the experience. Stopped at a floating petrol station first….. I got Hassani’s number so I could arrange to be picked up. The approach to the pub across the water was such fun and the pub itself was absolutely great. The beers were 300,same price as the hotel, which was fine. Great views of the mangroves on Manda and across to Lamu. Had a lovely time. The guys were an hour and a half late coming to collect me, but had a nice chat with Tony, a DJ, who was fishing off the side of the pub. Earlier on the other side I watched zebra fish swimming up against the pub. Returned to Lamu in the dark and went straight to eat beans n chapatis nearby to the hotel.
Tues. Had a more relaxing day. Walked to the beach. Pleasant swim. But this time I caught a boda boda back for 100 bob. Filmed part of the journey but the sound quality was terrible….must improve.
Bought some airtime. Treated myself to a slightly expensive coffee at Whispers, but a nice location ….a little oasis in the otherwise hectic, narrow streets. Another customer there reminded how to convert airtime into data bundles. Went for a slightly early dinner- same place as Mon – but they didn’t have what I wanted and what they brought me wasn’t what I ordered. Had pojo and rice and had to pick out some little stones from the pojo. On leaving I expressed my dissatisfaction politely and commented how much the standard had dropped since 2019 and that I wouldn’t be returning there again. Went to Petleys for a drink. Back to the hotel where I wrote up the Bamburi stage of my blog. Watched some football.
Wed. Walked to the beach as usual. Part of the routine is to buy a litre n half of water along the way. Sorted out my data bundles. Safaricom was very slow and I found there were network issues. Got a young guy to convert my phone from 3G to 4G which made a huge difference to the speed. Only needed a button pressing. Had mahindi Choma (roast maize) in the Square in front of the old Fort, after walking around the backstreets further behind, taking a few pics. Over at the police canteen as I was having my beer, a man walked passed clutching a chicken and a knife. He stopped to sharpen the knife on a low stone wall a few feet away. It was obvious what was coming next…..he went behind a low wall and I heard a squawk and a fluttering of feathers. The man then lit a cigarette…job done. Cheap beans n chapatis for dinner then to the hotel and some football to watch.
Thurs 17th. I took it very easy….in fact I didn’t go to the beach. Met Lorenzo…a Kenyan born of Italian origins…great chat. Had dinner as well at the police canteen…maharage-beans- and chapatis. Much better quality. Went to Petleys. Met Mungu again…a Kenyan artist who has spent many years in the UK. Back to Lamu Palace. Saw just the first half of a game…
Friday. Walked to Shela and back. Conserved my energy on the return. Having already drunk 1.5 ltrs water, I then need another bottle which I purchased half way back to Lamu. Had mahindi choma at the Square again. Exchanged some big notes for smaller ones as it can get difficult paying for things otherwise. Hassani met me at the pier to take me to the floating pub. Had to make that extra visit before o left Lamu. Better atmosphere as it was the start of the weekend and there were a few more people there. Necked a third beer as I was waiting for my ride. Hassani was only an hour late this and it was another night ride to Lamu. Rushed over to the canteen and had two beers and maharage n chapatis n chilli.
Sat 19. Last full day on Lamu. Decided not to go to the beach. A very relaxing day in prospect. Opportunity to write up my blog. Took 2 shirts and a pair of shorts to various rips and tears mended. Lady said it was up to me to decide how much to pay. Aaargh..I wish they wouldn’t do that. I decided on 200…about £1.50…and she seemed pleased. I was pleased too; went back after 45 mins and all done. Rest of the day? Well, usual I guess. The central square for maize lunch. Police canteen for beers n dinner. Relax on the roof of the hotel. And pack my rucksack ready for tomorrow morning and my flight back to Mombasa.