Lindi
Thurs 10th Apr.
I slept very well. I took my time getting going, knowing I wasn’t travelling far. I vacated by 07:45; was at the stand a few minutes later; was approached to go on a big bus for 10,000 (3Gbp), and we left at 08:10.
Uneventful journey but very bouncy. We passed a couple of big rock formations after Masasi, followed by fairly featureless mainly farming land, and more hilly towards the coast.
I had luck on my side in catching the big Dar bus because the trip was only 2 and three quarter hours, compared to the 4 and a half hours in a dala dala last year.
It’s my 4th time to Lindi…Apr & Sept ’24, then Jan & Apr ’25.
I went for a tea before looking for accommodation. I knew I wanted a change from Nageme and thought to try Lindi One and even offer them a long term deal on their 20,000 per day. But as I headed in that direction I passed Machenza guesthouse which Terry had mentioned.
I met Stella; she showed me the room; the 15,000 price was fine although the room was a bit small; but the clincher was that there was Wi-Fi, and the subscription had been paid.
I was happy I had my room for under 5Gbp and I celebrated by washing a shirt, underpants and socks. I then went to Immigration to report my arrival in Lindi. After my first visit when they knocked on my door at 04:30, I always report my arrival. Then I bought a roll of toilet paper from the supermarket.
That was enough excitement for the day and I went to Magereza Beach bar, which is straight down to the bay from Machenza. Such a nice place to relax, right on the water’s edge.
From there it was just nearby to Califonia. I considered having food there but wasn’t hungry enough and there was a wedding party taking place. I thought Califonia looked run down last time I was there but now there was lots more furniture and some of the chairs even had cushions.
I left before the Dar derby started as I was starting to get a bit tired. I had one beer and bought a bottle of K Vant for my room. Agnes from Nageme has a tiny bar opposite Machenza, and I decided to give her a little bit of business by having a beer there.Then across the road to my room. Oh, the only food I had all day was 2 samosas and a little potato thing the size of a samosa. I’ve totally lost my appetite.
Fri 11th Apr
I had a good night’s sleep, although the pillow isn’t the most comfortable. I took my time getting going as I’m trying to learn to relax !! I washed my jeans and hung them out to dry. I walked to Crbd bank to get smaller notes for my 20,000. The cashier told me I didn’t need to queue next time.
I walked over to the ferry jetty, my aim being to cross over to go to Kuchele beach, as various people had said the beach was nice. I waited half an hour for my 5 minute crossing 300bob. Unfortunately when walking down the ramp to the ferry, my left leg skidded on damp muddy/mossy stuff, and I fell over and banged and grazed my right knee. It was quite sore but managed to get up to continue; my hand, foot, a part of shorts and shirt were mud stained.
A boda on the other side took me for 4,000bob (reduced from 5,000) the 10 to 15 minutes to the beach. The road was rough and there wasn’t much to see there. Some mangroves at one end, one tree that would be in the water if the tide was in, fishing boats, and a white sandy beach.
I was expecting a refreshment place or somewhere to have a snack, but there was only a little shack selling water and probably tea. I sized up the situation very quickly and told the boda guy not to leave. In fact after 15-20 minutes I’d had enough and we returned to the ferry. I had a tea and 30 minutes later I was on the ferry going back to Lindi.
I went back to my room and washed my ‘zebra’ shirt before the mud from the ramp stained it. My jeans were drying nicely. I had a shower and put some antiseptic lotion on my knee.
After that, a relaxing rest of the day. Down to Magereza for a couple of Pilsners and a few peanuts. Then over to Califonia where I ordered a plate of chips, but it was taking so long that I cancelled it. I went to Agnes’ bar, opposite Machenza, by which point it was getting dark. After 2 small beers I retreated to my room where I ate the rest of a small packet of cashews. All I had to eat all day was 2 small pieces of octopus at the ferry, a handful of peanuts at Magereza and a few cashews in my room
I don’t know why I’ve lost my appetite.
Sat 12th Apr
I had a very good sleep. I think the electricity went off at some point, and with the fan not working, it got very warm…but that didn’t last long. I got going a bit earlier, but still determined to follow my relaxed routine.
I went to the dinosaur for my coffee. I had to take a pic of the dinosaur. I walked down to the beach and then cut in to go to Machenza as there were a few drops of rain. I bumped into a guy selling the most enormous prawns I’ve ever seen…from one’s wrist to one’s fingertips.
I phoned Gabriella and had a good chat. She followed that up by sending me a video of the progress on their house build.
I found the NMB with an ATM and drew out 400,000. I spoke with Loretta; both chats proved that the Wi-Fi is pretty good.
I bought 1.5 ltrs of water, and over the course of a half hour walk on the beach, I managed to finish the whole bottle. I went to the Pearl bar and watched about 30 mins of English football before the heavens opened, followed by a power cut that knocked out the television reception.
When the rain stopped I walked to Agape Resort and ordered a kiti moto, I thought I really must eat a proper meal as I hadn’t eaten much for 2 days. The food was very tasty, perhaps a bit too much fat, and two bananas were enough.
There was a short downpour and I went back to Pearl but the football hadn’t resumed. I saw from my phone that I was missing a good game…City came back from 2 nil down to win 5 : 2. The power was down everywhere so I headed to Califonia. It was only a short distance but another shower caught me out. Luckily I had my kikoi with me to wrap around my legs against mosquitos, so I used it as some protection against the rain.
I had one drink then went over to Agnes’ bar which is conveniently across from Machenza. No more power cuts, so I had good Wi-Fi in my room.
Sun 13th Apr
Because I go to bed quite early I wake up early…but thats ok, as long as I get my sleep. I walked over to the dinosaur for my black coffee. Then straight down the road to the beach.
I passed two groups pulling in their fishing nets. Just passed Makuti Beach bar I unfurled my kikoi and lay in the sun for over an hour. I took some pics of crabs !!! And birds on the shoreline. Then I wandered back slowly. I bought a bottle of water from Magereza and went to stretch out on my my big tree trunk on the beach.
I drank the whole litre and a half in about 45 minutes. Back at my room I relaxed and showered. I communicated with Terry about his arrival on Monday. I checked who was showing English football at 16:00.
Straight up the road passed the bus stand, I bought a 2 samosas and cutlet snack. I wasn’t far from the hoteli opposite Paris Club, and no sooner had I reached there the heavens opened. The storm lasted 15 minutes, and after I finished my tea I went over to Biashara Club to watch football. I didn’t think they’d show the Spurs game, but was happy watching Liverpool.
After that I went down to Califonia and had a plate of chips with one beer. There was another downpour. From there to Agnes’ where Agnes herself was minding the shop. I left 2,000 for Rehema to enjoy a beer and went over the road to my room.
Mon 14th Apr
I had a few tasks to complete. First I went for my dinosaur coffee, but everyone was at a funeral. I then went to Airtel and put a few minutes on my phone so I could call Mercy. Then for the first time to Timo One restaurant for a milk tea. I had a good chat with the manager/owner who is half chagga half somali and born in Moshi.
From there I went to the bank and drew out 400,000 and changed 20,000 into smaller notes. Then to White’s hoteli for a tea at about 11:15; that’s when I was told that Terry had arrived. Back to my room briefly to bring my shirt inside because there a threat of rain.
Nageme ( where Terry is staying ) is just around the corner from Machenza. He only pays 10,000, but there’s no wifi. From there we went to Magereza Beach bar and had a good catch-up.
The rest of the evening wss spent at Califonia. I had beans and ugali which was absolutely tasteless. Terry had a chips mayai which was very good, and I was able to finish it off as he wasn’t very hungry. We went over to Agnes’ for a nightcap, after which I went across the road to my room.
Tues 15th Apr
There was no shower water, but then I heard the pump running…aaaah. I washed using the bucket and jug. I went for my dinosaur coffee and commiserated about the previous day’s funeral.
I went down to the beach. I went a bit beyond Makuti Beach bar and sunbathed. Terry and I met at Magereza and then briefly called in at another place where he is friendly with the owner. Back to Califonia where I had a plate of chips. Then to Agnes’ for a nightcap…and that was it for a relaxing day.
Wed 16th Apr
Not the best night’s sleep. Over to the dinosaur for coffee and down to the beach. The fishermen weren’t pulling the nets in as usual and there were few people around so I went for a swim. That was my first swim in Lindi.
Back to Machenza for a shower. After 12:00 I went to Nageme and then to Magereza to hook up with Terry. The plan was to go to Makuti Beach bar, but there was a huge thunderstorm and heavy rain for an hour so we gave up on that idea.
A big discussion about where and what to have for dinner. After the rain stopped we walked slowly through town to Himo One. I had beans and rice with some vegetables while Terry had samosas and beans. From there to the hoteli he introduced me to and on to Califonia. It’s such a difference walking with someone else…the pace is slower and the routes tend to vary so you notice and discover more things.
By which point it was starting to get a little bit late. We stopped at Agnes’. After a little while Terry went back to Nageme and I had a long chat with Mwanajuma before going over to my room. There had been a long power cut starting about 3pm, but thankfully the electricity was restored around 8pm. So, wifi and fan meant it was a comfortable evening.
Thurs 17th Apr.
I got going after I washed my t-shirt of the last 3 days. The usual dinosaur coffees. For a change I went down to the beach and along and up to Machenza. I got in touch with Mwajuma so that we could meet up.
I went down to Magereza to meet Terry; we agreed the weather was fine to go to Makuti Beach bar. That’s a nice walk along the beach. We sat at a table on the beach initially, but after 45 minutes the rain threatened and we moved inside. There followed a torrential downpour that lasted over an hour.
To get back to town we had to detour inland a bit to avoid the fast flowing stream that was crossing the beach. It was nice to take a different route through more of a village area. We both went for showers and had chips mayai on opposite sides of the street; Terry wanted to talk to his friend and I just wanted to try somewhere different. I had a piece of fried chicken with mine.
From there it was down to Califonia for a nightcap. Actually, we stayed there quite a while…8 o’clock I think. Terry went to his room while I popped in to Agnes’ and then went to my room.
Fri 18th April
I slept pretty well. For 09:00 I went for my dinosaur coffees. I took a slightly zigzaggy route back to the room. Down at the beach I lay in the sun for over an hour at/on the washed up tree trunk. I was about to go looking for Terry when a white lady came along the beach towards me. I called out and we chatted for 15 minutes. She was in Lindi for 2 months from Finland, working as a volunteer.
Mwajuma wanted to see me so we hooked up under cover as the rain fell again.
I went to my room to shower, then met up with Terry. My food for the day was samosas and a kebab at Himo One. From there I went to Gymkhana pub and on to Califonia. Actually, I didn’t stay as Terry was at Magereza. It was lovely to be beach/bay side as the sun was setting.
I popped into Agnes’ before going to my room.
Sat 19th Apr.
I washed a shirt and a pair of socks
Over to dinosaur for coffee. A guy who I met last year, recognised me. I got him to sit next to me and bought him a coffee and we talked about his past life again when he was a ship engineer and stopped at various ports in Europe.
I passed by Fisi restaurant to enquire about eating fish. You had to order in advance and it all sounded a bit complicated.
I continued to the beach. I was only there for a short time, when it clouded over. Back to my room which I had asked to be cleaned. Fresh towel, sheets and even the mosquito net had been washed. I took my shirt and socks inside because it looked like rain at some point.
At around 12:30 it was down to Magereza where Terry was. We were forced into 2 beers because the rain came down very heavily. It was interesting to watch the rain clouds form on the hills, then come across the bay and make landfall.
There was to be EPL football at 5pm so I needed something to eat before then. Mpuju bar only had ugali, which I didn’t fancy. On my wanderings I settled on a hoteli near the bus stand where I ate 4 samosas.
On crossing to the hoteli I slipped and fell over again. A combination of my worn and therefore smooth flip flops, and the very slippery tiles when wet, make for dangerous conditions. Anyway, I made it safely to Pearl Lounge to watch the footie; they had decided to Everton vs Man City.
From there it was over to Agnes’ bar. Once again I arrived at my destination just before the rain started. Incredible…there was probably the brightest lightening I’ve ever seen and the loudest thunder I’ve ever heard in my life. Quite scary actually.
I went across to my room after the rain stopped and had a handful of cashews and played with my phone. Having the Internet is great.
Sun 20th Apr
Had a comfortable night’s sleep. Over to Fisi for my coffee. I returned to my room to hook up with MwaJuma later. At midday I went to my huge tree trunk on the beach. As there was absolutely nobody around and I felt my bag was safe, I went for a 5 minute swim.
Then I walked along the beach as far as Magereza and met up with Terry. It didn’t feel as hot and there was a nice breeze at the beach. From there I went to my room to shower and get into my jeans for the evening.
Terry was at Mpuju, but as they were out of cooked rice I carried on. I went to the same hoteli as the day before, opposite the bus stand, and had rice, beans, vegetable and some small fish in a sauce…costing 2,000 (60pence). It was quite tasty.
By then it was nearly 4pm and I went to Pearl Lounge to watch a football match. From there I went to Agnes’ where I bought the ladies a drink. That was it for the day. Then across to my room for the night.
Mon 21st Apr
I didn’t get going until nearly 09:00; I’m really being able to relax here. I took a slightly different route to the dinosaur coffee. I walked back into the town centre to the Airtel shop to buy credit to phone Mercy. What the guy did was a bit different to the other day, so I hoped it would work.
Back to my room to do some writing up and give thought as to why there was a £55 ‘pending’ amount on my bank account. At about 11:30 I went to Sea View beach resort to make a little easter video wearing my ‘Mary’ shirt (the zebra shirt) to send to Renato to pass on.
I had a bit of a craving for milk coffee, so for 3,000…under £1…I got a thermus that provided 3 cups. It was good to use wifi in a nice environment…nice gardens and near the beach. Although there was a power cut, I had done most of what I wanted to do.
I walked back to Magereza and found Terry there. After one beer and an hour and a half of chat I went to my room. I figured out that the pending bank charge from Camden was Camden Council in London and it looked like a parking ticket. I submitted a complaint saying I don’t live in London and I don’t have a car and I’m travelling abroad. We’ll see what happens.
Terry and had agreed we were hungry and arranged to meet at Califonia by 5pm and have a chips mayai each. They make a good one, and my theory is that if people get to know you, the food preparation will be better.
Well, that was it for the day. Terry went with me to Agnes’, where I bought a small bottle of KVant which she had just started stocking. Another day over in Lindi.
Tues 22nd Apr.
I was a bit slow in getting going so I didn’t go for my morning coffee. Instead I decided to walk to the rocks at the end of the beach passed Makuti bar. I confirmed that I couldn’t go around to the next bay, so I walked up the little hill to the village (Kariakoo I think )and followed the road around.
I passed some nice houses that basically faced the ocean. Following a coast road I reached the little bay which wasn’t very exciting. I couldn’t get across the beach to a hotel because of a fast flowing stream, so I retraced my steps to the Lindi beach and walked slowly back to town.
The walk in total was about an hour in each direction. I stopped a couple of times though on the way back. I met Terry at Magereza. After a drink we decided to go to the dinosaur market and see what sort of food might be available. There was some fish but it didn’t look very appetising.
We went next door to the Fisi restaurant just as there was another rain deluge. We ordered fried chicken which had a very tasty batter coating. The chef gave us a few chips for free…. The rain had already stopped and we went to the 3 Sisters bar just for a change.
We went to our respective rooms for a shower and then met at Magereza. That was a busy day. I had a small beer at Agnes’ then went to my room.
Wed 23rd Apr
I am so relaxed in Lindi that I’m not getting going until nearly 09:00. I went for my dinosaur coffee. I looked around the market for any signs of cooking activity in mid morning, but there didn’t seem to be any.
But I did buy a delicious looking yellow chapati from Fisi which I ate as I walked to the town centre. One of the tastiest chapatis ever…on a par with the Rwandan chapatis.
I bought an Internet bundles top up. I continued down the road passed Himo One restaurant and called into a couple of new/smart looking guesthouses to check their prices. They started at 30,000 and didn’t even have wifi. So, am happy with my 15,000 incl wifi, despite it being basic. But I don’t need aircon or hot water…
Mwajuma wanted to meet me…and the intention was to extract a bit of money out me for a hospital visit, so I gave her 10,000.
For once I beat Terry to Magereza. I had one drink and went back to my room for a shower and to change into my jeans.
I was hungry but didn’t know what I fancied. I just went walkabout and ended up buying 2 veg samasas. This is the second time now, and veg equates to potato. Not very exciting, but very cheap. I also called into Bravo supermarket opposite the Stand to see what they had to offer…not as good as the one I’ve used a couple of times.
It was time for more fact finding. I checked on the ‘police canteen’ across from Sea View resort where I’ve been once before. A small room; the server sleeping on the floor behind the bar; very few beer bottles on the shelves…a terrible place.
I went across the football ground and road to Sea View to check the price of a large bottle of beer. At 4,000 it was a bit high compared to the going rate of 2,500; a nice/smart place to go as a treat.
I walked along the beach and up the ‘street of bars’ to Biashara bar intending to snack on their kachori. Something was bubbling in a saucepan, I asked what it was and when he said Zanzibar Mix, I knew I had to have some. The bowl cost 3,000 (under £1) and it was absolutely delicious.
I found Terry at Magereza and told him of my amazing food discovery, and we agreed to go there for dinner the next day. After our evening chat I headed back to Machenza, only to find that Agnes hadn’t opened her bar that night, so I turned in for the night.
Thurs 24th Apr.
I was slow getting going in the morning, so I decided on total relaxation and went to the beach and lay beside the big tree sculpture for over an hour. I only saw 2 or 3 people in all that time; most activity takes place at the other end where the fishing nets are pulled ashore.
From there I went further along the beach and into Sea View for a thermus of coffee. The milk had a yellowy film to it and tasted a little bit strange, but drinkable. On the way back to my room for a shower, I passed Terry who was looking for somewhere selling pilsner.
After my shower I phoned him and he was at Gymkhana. The issue was one of cold beers because there had been a power cut. I joined him at Gymkhana for a colder beer than elsewhere and we had fun chatting with bar staff and people from nearby shops.
We went to BM lounge but there was no sign for it and it looked as though it had become part of Biashara bar as there was a door directly linking the two. The Biashara staff didn’t make much of an effort to serve us so we walked out.
In the meantime we tried to find out what was happening with the Znz Mix/octopus soup stall…there was nobody there. We were told that Mpande had got very drunk in the night and was sleeping it off.
After 4pm he appeared and his eyes confirmed the being drunk account of his absence. He added that he had 40,000 stolen from him, which if true was very sad. Terry and I had psyched ourselves up for a delicious dinner, but it wasn’t going to happen.
We went to Califonia for a drink and then to Kelvin’s ( just up from Machenza) for a chips mayai. Terry went back to his room and I went to Agnes’ for a couple of small beers. At least the electricity came back on at 6pm which meant having a working fan in my room…the power had been off since 8am.
Fri 25th Apr
I went for my dinosaur coffee. Then walked straight down the road to the beach; there was more fishing activity at the bit of beach closest to us. Back to my room and asked for a clean bedsheet and a quick clean up of the room.
Down to Magereza to await Terry, but after a while I called him and I went to Mpuju bar to meet him. I went to the bank to change 10,000s to smaller notes. He said later he would go to Magereza, but I got a call saying he was going to 3 Sisters where pilsner was available. I joined him there but first took the opportunity to buy 2 veg/potato samosas from the lady outside MM Hotel. I ate one straight away and saved the other one for my room for later.
We went to our respective rooms. I had a shower then went to Magereza. We stayed there until after it got dark, after which I went to Agnes’. She was closed so I went to the ‘street of bars’ and found Mpemba had reopened. I ordered a Znz Mix and ate it inside Biashara with a beer. It wasn’t quite as good as the first one I had, but I guess he’s getting his business going again.
So, that was it for the day. I retired to my room.
Sat 26th Apr
I didn’t leave my room until after 09:00. I went for my 3 black coffees. I had been told by Sophia about a barber just down from Fisi. I decided I really needed a haircut; I found Soweto Hair Cutting saloon where I was immediately into a chair and had great haircut for 2,000 (60pence).
Back to my room to put a phone on charge. I went to the Bank to exchange big notes for smaller ones, but was told it was a bank Holiday for the union of Tanganyika and Zanzibar and the bank was closed.
I meandered down to the beach where I chilled for 45 minutes. Back to my room to shower and wash the suntan lotion off. I did a circuit of the bars and found Terry at Gymkhana.
There was an absolutely torrential downpour for over 30 minutes. At 14:30 I went over to Pearl Lounge to watch the first half of Chelsea vs Everton. By 15:30 I was in the football stadium behind the bar…just a couple of minutes walk away. I paid my 2,000bob to watch Mtibwa Sugar play Big Man.
I was warmly greeted by a person who turned out to be the president/owner of the Big Man team, and in fact I sat next to him on the viewing platform. Maybe I had a VIP seat..??!!
When I said something about my past to the team’s president, he said that actually Big Man were the Korogwe team, so I was supporting my ‘local’ team. That made the match more special.Quite a fun game to watch on the waterlogged pitch…lots of slipping and sliding, and the ball stopping dead when it landed in a puddle.
I only watched the first half then went to Biashara to watch English football and have a Znz Mix ( urojo). Again I only watched the first half then joined Terry at Magereza before going to Agnes’ for a nightcap. A good day with all sorts going on.
Sun 27th Apr
I skipped the dinosaur coffee and walked in the direction of GRM beach resort. As I only had a couple of days left in Lindi, I took a few pics that I’d put off taking. Like the old Boma house, the old house with big tree roots growing through it.
It’s only a 20 minute walk to GRM, passed the fish market and ferry port. I only wanted a tea, but only soup and alcohol were on offer. The place is a bit of a dump actually. I had a black tea at a banda up the road with lots of flies.
On the way back I sat for a short time on the beach near Sea View. I went in for one of their coffees which took ages to be served. I don’t know if it was the actual coffee or the milk, but my stomach felt a bit queasy afterwards.
I started at the top of the ‘road of pubs’ and found Terry at Magereza. On the way I bought one piece of casava from Mpemba outside Biashara. The tide was quite high and some waves lapped over the Magereza sand bag defence.
I showered then went to Pearl Lounge to watch the 2:30 English match. I was the only one watching the TV above the bar; everyone else…the place was packed…was watching Simba vs Stellenbosch in a big Cup game. It was a nil:nil draw but Simba had won the 1st leg 1:0. There was a torrential downpour before half time, and after that, much of the afternoon was plagued by power cuts.
I gave up on the football and went walkabout. One could hear cheering all around town. I timed my walk to arrive at Biashara just before the Simba mtach finished. The place was crammed; once most people had exited, I found myself a table and ordered my urojo from Mpemba and settled down to watch Spurs vs Liverpool.
Spurs scored first but went downhill after that. I stayed for the start of the second half but then got bored and left. I went to Agnes’ and whilst there I got a call from Terry to say he was going to Magereza to meet Slim. I was going to meet Slim in Masoko anyway, but he was on a quick visit to Lindi. He seemed a nice guy and we had a nice evening. I didn’t stay too long as Phil wanted to call me. I knew it was best to talk then, as I might not have such good, or any wifi in Masoko.
Mon 28th Apr.
Another very good nights sleep. A really slow start…nearly 10:00 before I stepped outside. I decided I really must go to the dinosaur coffee and say goodbye to the guys.
I got a call from Mwajuma saying she wanted to see me to say goodbye, so we met up. I was determined to get to the dinosaur even if a bit late. I had the last cup of coffee in the pot.
As it was gone midday I went looking for Terry. As I passed Califonia, Salma called me over and persuaded me to have something to eat. I saw Terry briefly at Magereza then went back to Califonia for a very tasty plate of casava cooked with coconut, and one beer.
I went back to my room and spent quite a long time over a F/Book post. During that time there was a heavy rain shower. Over to
Biashara at 17:00 to ask about urojo. Mpemba had only just arrived, so I said I’d be back 18:00. I walked around town to pass the time.
At 18:00 I went back to Biashara and started on a beer. My urojo arrived after 18:30 and Mpemba took pleasure in telling me that it was a bigger bowl than before. There was more of it and it was even more delicious, but as I’d had a lunch I felt very full afterwards. I thought that paying him 5,000 as opposed to the 3,000 was a fair price, and he was very pleased. He has big plans for his kitchen and I hope he succeeds.
I went next door to Gymkhana where I was told Terry was seated. He was sipping a KVant and I bought myself a Serengeti. From there we went to Agnes’, which for me was for the last time. I said my goodbyes to Terry and Agnes …after buying Agnes a farewell drink…and went over the road to my room. I had got so used to Machenza and Lindi in general, that it was a strange feeling that it was my last night.