Mon 21st. I’d been looking forward to this part of the trip in particular. It looked as though it might be a difficult place to reach; I wasn’t doing the straightforward route of flying the 30 mins from Dar. So, boda to the bus stand for about 06:00. We left at 06:30. Not a particularly interesting journey, although being near the coast we had rolling hills to look at. Still very green countryside.

After 6 hours we reached Bungu…I think about 100kms from Dar. As I thought the ferry for Mafia left in the morning, I was in no hurry. However, my luck was in. So, having arrived at 12:30, I walked up the road a little, found a shared taxi for 3,000tsh..about 1gbp….and by 12:50 was on my way. A rough road but not uncomfortable. 13:45 we arrived in Nyamisati…the ferry terminal. I walked over to the ticket office and found they were still issuing tickets for the 14:00 sailing. OK, we didn’t leave until 14:30 but I was so surprised and relieved to be on my way. Otherwise it would have meant waiting 24hrs.

The ferry took us passed lots of mangroves initially before heading into open water. It was novel and fun for the first 4 hours but darkness approached I got a bit tired and worried about arriving in the dark. The trip took nearly 5 hours in the end. Was talking to a young guy and he recommended the Ibizza Inn in Kilindoni, and in fact offered to take me there. It was only 15 minutes walk away but saved the stress if having to find a place in the dark, in a new town.

I stayed in Kilindoni the whole 5 days. I looked into going to Utende and Chole Island and Juani and doing the snorkeling thing in the National Marine Park, but it was a bit expensive and decided against it. Thought about going to Bweni in the North of Mafia, but the dala dala didn’t leave until midday and returned the next day, so there was the cost of an overnight stay. So I skipped that as well and did my usual long walks.

One day I went looking for a nearby lodge but I got lost . Was already hot and tired with the prospect of having to walk back, when I saw 2 guys struggling to get their 3 wheeler tractor/trailer out of the sand at the edge of the road. I helped push it out and helped bump start it, and as a result I got a lift to the main road….probably saved me a half hours walk.

I explored the mangrove lined beach one side of the jetty. It was interesting to see lots of boats being repaired. The other side of the jetty was more the fishing port area. I had a not particularly pleasant walk there…had rained a lot that morning.

Oh the jetty. Apparently it’s about 2 kms long, so at high tide the ferry can dock by the shore, but at low tide the ferry has to use the jetty. Glad I didn’t have to use the jetty when we arrived in the dark; I would’ve been very confused.

And the Ibizza Inn. Very comfortable. The room cost 40,000tsh…incl hot water, aircon, and breakfast. The location was great…near the middle of town (4 mins walk), but looked out on a little valley with lots of trees and planting going on. So. Kilindoni was very small.

I discovered a restaurant called Marangu Mtoni run by Chagga folks and they cooked kiti moto. I ate there on my last night. I had to wait for the pork to be flown in from Dar. Was in the bar opposite the restaurant when I heard the plane land at 5:30 , and in less than 2 hours I had my dinner. It wasn’t a very good kiti moto.

Oh , and I had a haircut the day after I arrived. I forgot about the difference between Kenyan no.2 clippers and Tanzanian no.2 clippers…I was scalped. But I got the cost down from 3000 to 2000, so only paid about 60p, or 1usd for my haircut.

I enjoyed Kilindoni. Relaxing and eventful 5 days. Considered flying to Dar…but 100usd. So, after standing in line for an hour and a half, I booked my ferry ticket for the morning of the 26th.