Thurs 11th. After a very comfortable night’s sleep and a mediocre breakfast, I went the 5 minutes to the bajaj stand, and once it was full with the 4 of us!!, we went down the hill to Ipogoro from where I caught the bus to Makambako.
I paid my 10,000, and as I was first on I sat in a front seat. It took half an hour to fill up before we set off across the either flat or slightly undulating landscape 4 hour journey.
One slightly unusual thing happened. We stopped roughly half way and I was standing at the front of the bus stretching. After about 10 minutes the conductor came over to me, and speaking softly, told me to grab my rucksack and follow him. He said my bus wasn’t leaving for another hour and that I should get into another one that was leaving imminently. He confirmed that no further payment would be required. So, a two minute walk and 5 minutes later I was on my way. I was very lucky that he took pity on the white traveller.
Arrived Makambako Stand before 2pm. Although I found the Kibadamo Htl straight away as it was only 5 minutes walk from the Stand, I wandered around the area for half an hour in case there was something better. Well, I ended up back at Kibadamo, where I’d had a tea, and paid my 25,000 for quite a nice room.
I’d already contacted Kasembe…a Tz immigration friend from Holili who was transferred to Makambako a couple of years ago…to say I was coming. Makambako was conveniently a halfway stop between Iringa and Mbeya and I had the chance to meet up with a friend. Makambako is quite a big junction. The road goes north to Mbeya and ultimately to Kigoma. Or south via Njombe and Songea to the coast at Lindi/Mtwara.
I relaxed in my room whilst waiting for Kasembe to tell me the meeting place. I was getting hungry so walked 15 minutes to the main road junction and found a place offering all sorts of dishes, but I just had 2 samosas with a chilli sauce. I then went to the bar next door for 2 beers as it started to drizzle. As I was finishing, Kasembe messaged to say to meet at Usalule bar/restaurant. I remembered passing it earlier and knew it wasn’t far; in fact only 5 minutes and back in the direction of my hotel.
It was good to see him again and we chatted for about 3 hours. The only problem was that I’d got bored with beer and switched to KVant. One bottle would’ve been fine, but with all the chatting,joking and laughing, I got carried away and had a second bottle. Of course I was drunk, but somehow made it back to my. Needless to say I slept well.
Fri 12th. I took my time getting going as the bus stand was 5 minutes walk away. Had a terrible breakfast ( at least it was included in the price of the room) of cold little roast potatoes and cold pieces of omelette. On arrival at the Stand I immediately got in a coaster. Was told the fare was 12,000 to Mbeya but I said the fare was 10,000 for the same distance from Iringa to Makambako …. so I gave him 10,000 (just over £3).
We left after 09:00….slow and steady. I was a bit delicate from the night before, so it was unfortunate the journey took over 5 hours.The hills and lorries on the approach to Mbeya made for very slow progress. Then there was a long stop at Uyole stand which was still about 8kms from centeal Mbeya. Then there was the town traffic.
Anyway, I made it. I walked up the hill from the Stand, reacquainting myself with Mbeya. I’ve been once before…just over 2 years ago. I was looking for somewhere to have a tea and relax and ended up at the Mbeya Continental Htl Restaurant and Bar. Very grand name for what it is. I used to visit it last time because it was the most reasonably priced place, and esp compared with Peace of Mind htl where I actually stayed a couple of years ago.
I checked room prices. 25,000 and 30,000. I said I’d think about and went walkabout looking for alternatives. I walked for nearly an hour with my rucksack and in the end I made myself tired for no extra gain. So I went back to Continental Htl and said I would take the nicer room, but for the lower price of 25,000…which they agreed to. Nice room on the 1st floor (i.e. top floor!!) with hot water, a single channel TV, good lighting, and a balcony.
It was becoming late afternoon at this point, so after settling in I had one beer downstairs then went looking for food. One hears about how cold Mbeya is, so I wore my light rain jacket, but I was much too warm in it. I had no luck finding food…either places had run out or not fully opened yet or just closed. Back to my hotel by 18:00 and all their food was finished as well. All they had was chips, so I had a plate of chips for dinner. It was interesting observing people in the bar area as I drank my 2 beers, before going up to my room after 9pm feeling very tired indeed.
Sat 13th. Had a good night’s sleep; am pleased with comfortable, and in a very quiet neighbourhood. I was expecting it to be noisy as it’s quite busy in the daytime.
My main mission was to figure out how to get to Kyela. It wasn’t to be from the main bus stand, instead I had to get to the Uyole stand and then get a coaster from there.
Then to find somewhere for breakfast; not easy as mandazis sell out early, leaving chapatis which I consider an afternoon food. Eventually I found somewhere for mandazi na chai. Next was to find somewhere to watch the Spurs match at 14:30. In the meantime there was a power cut that would last until about 7pm.
I walked to Peace of Mind to pass on Mark’s regards and ask if they would show the football ( knowing they would have a generator).They would normally show the football but today they were turning the generator off and not back on again until late afternoon. Out of luck.
I mentioned all this to the manager of my hotel and he pointed me in the direction of Bar 2000. I relaxed first then walked the 5 mins to Bar 2000. Yes, they would show the football but only after collecting their generator. And soon after, the heavens opened…. It was a couple of hours before the generator arrived and football put on about 6 different screens, and in the meantime I watched all the bar activities and listened to the heated arguments..!! Spurs were already 3:0 down. Because I was there so long I had 3 beers. I bought a small bottle of Zanzi. Decided to have dinner at the hotel and ordered the chicken, rice, greens, salad, chillies and a thick sauce. Absolutely delicious. And for a change I bought a KVant with a tonic.