Mbamba Bay
Thurs 18th. I took my time in the morning as I just had to go around the corner for breakfast. Can you wait 10 minutes ? I said, no problem, but can I start with a cup of tea. Hot water and tea bag…fine. The omelette and spaghetti was actually very tasty. I checked out of the hotel as I had decided to head to Mbamba Bay. Walked through the Stage and climbed on to a boda; I said I would pay him 2,000 and not the 3,000 he asked for. A 10 minute , maybe less, trip to the Mbamba stage out of town.
Very lucky. There was a coaster waiting to leave and within 10 minutes I was on my way. I tried to get away with paying 10,000 but paid the 12,000 asking price. It took 2 hours to reach Mbinga. When the guy in the front seat vacated, I stepped in knowing that for the rest of the journey I would have the best views. Although the Songea to Mbinga 94kms took 2 hours, unfortunately the Mbinga stop was half an hour and the remaining 66kms took 2 hours, so the total trip to Mbamba took 4 and a half hours. But the views were spectacular, and the approach to Mbamba with the lake in the background was amazing.
From the approach I could see huge swarms of non-biting midges moving across the lake. These Chaoborid swarms above the lake can stretch for miles and contain many millions of insects.
Apparently the flies can be compressed into cakes and eaten. I didn’t bother trying to take a photo/pic from distance, knowing it would be an unidentifiable blur..!!
So, a couple of hours of a stop start trip to do the last 66kms ( actually it was the steepest section with lots of windy bends), and we arrived at the Mbamba stage. I had a 5 minute walk to the Grand View Inn (where Terry stayed and I thought I would try somewhere different), and got a really nice room for 15,000 (£5 incl Bfast). The bad news was that I can only stay 2 nights as the room has been prebooked from Saturday.
I went walkabout over the small area that is Mbamba Bay. 2 of the main streets have now been gravelled; I don’t know if they’ll be properly tarmacked one day. I walked to the lake shore and that’s when I understood the the enormity of the ‘lake flooding ‘. Literally the whole beach that I saw 2 years ago and 16 months ago, was under water. I went to Bagamoyo Camping where Kulu’s sister Nouro is in charge whilst Kulu and Benjamin are in RSA ( Benjamin had a medical issue). I had 2 cups of nice coffee for 6,000 (£2).
From there it was back to my room for a shower. Then to the London Pub. On reaching the London Pub I had to use drink crates as stepping ‘stones’ to get to the bar. Again, the extent to which the Lake water levels had risen as a result of the rains, really hit home. And London Pub is a long way from the lake shore. Had a good, long chat with Raphael and learned that what I thought was the word for grass..majani…actually means leaves. And the word for grass is actually nyassi..!? No-one has corrected me over the years.
From London Pub I went to buy a local small Gin for later (200ml at a cost of 80 pence ) then had a chips mayai…good one for 2,000 ..or 65pence. I then went virtually across the road to the Weather Pub where the music was v v loud, and I had one beer and headed to my room. So, my first day i Mbamba…loved it. Loved the fact it’s so small…everything at your fingertips.
Fri 19th. A very comfortable sleep. I really like the Grand View Inn; there are a couple of places very nearby where I’ll enquire about a room for Saturday. I managed to pour myself a cup of tea but the lady chef hasn’t appeared.
Chef still didn’t appear. Went up the road and had 2 vitumbua (coconut doughnut) for 200. Then checked Password next door for accommodation for Saturday and Sunday, but it seemed chaotic and not very professional. Went to BN Lodge, not far from New Betheli ( where I stayed last time), and I got the last room there for 12,000 (£4) at BN. The incredible/funny thing with Betheli was that the ladies greeted me…Hello James…even though it was 16 months since I stayed there in Dec ’22. I must’ve made quite an impression !!!
After that it was kindof walkabout. I had a coffee at Bagamoyo Camping then walked along the little bit of beach that isn’t flooded. I came back along the main road; thought about climbing up to some big rocks but scotched that idea. I went to the bank and changed some 10,000s into 1,000s. I had lunch of beans and rice…very tasty as obviously lemon juice in the beans which gave it more flavour.
I went across the road to the London Pub where they had laid down a lot of lake shore graveĺ to dispurse the water to prepare for the weekend football matches; half the floor was covered. It’s not sand, but very small stones that shift a lot underfoot when your feet sink into it. I had a couple of drinks whilst watching all the preparations that were underway.
I bought a cheap plastic bottle of Sungura Gin to take back to the room. But before that I tried out a bar that was probably only a 1 minute walk from the hotel. I made sure my mosquito net was down and the slight whirring of the fan cut out any noise from outside.
Sat 20th. I enjoyed my comfortable room at Grand View Inn, but yet again the breakfast didn’t materialise. I helped myself to 2 cups of black tea, and thankfully a bag of sugar arrived to replenish the empty jar.I was all packed and just passing the time before transferring to BN Lodge.
I arrived at BN ( a 2 minute walk ) at 09:30 and had a choice of any room; I chose one towards the back… Once settled, I went to the lady with the vitumbua again, but I had a tea as well this time. I was lucky to miss a torrential downpour that only lasted about 30 minutes.
I wandered a bit then started on the road to Bio Camp. Had to take shelter again from another downpour, but when that passed I decided on walking to Bio Camp and if I was offered a piki piki ride I would accept it. In the end no-one stopped for me and I walked the 6kms or so in about an hour and a half. I had never done that and it was quite a sense of achievement.
On arriving I went straight to the shore and had a swim in the refreshingly clear water. I noticed that the beach area was much more narrow, due to the rising lake waters. There was a regular who I got talking to who explained that the rise in lake level (he said something like 8 mtrs ) was due to Malawi not releasing the water from a dam at the southern end of the lake. So a combination of heavy rains and no exit point, caused the water levels to rise hugely.
I drank a small beer then ordered a boda for 3,000; I had no intention of walking that 6kms again, and anyway the sky was looking a bit ominous. An excellent decision, because 5 minutes after having been dropped off and reaching my room, the heavens opened. Again, torrential for about 30 minutes. I haven’t figured out the hot water yet, but even a coolish shower felt good. Oh, and the ladies had taken in the shirt I had washed in the morning, otherwise it would’ve been drenched.
I went in search of food. Rehema was out of rice and beans so I had chips mayai at Zambia. A few minutes walk is London Pub where they would be showing football. I chatted with Raphael whilst on a high stool at the bar, then sat on a more comfortable plastic chair. The Pub was packed for the Yanga vs Simba match.
I was a bit bored, and at half time went walkabout. I decided on having a coffee at Bagamoyo Camping. I’m glad I did as it was nearing the end of the sunset and I took some lovely photos.
I returned to London Pub thinking they would show the Man City game. I was lied to, because Raphael asked and was told that there are no Premier league matches due to the relevant subscription not being paid. Same with the Weather Pub. At least Zambia was showing the match so I sat on the bench with my beers and had a nice evening. On the way back some kids started running around me and passed me and laughing and making snorting noises, which got me really annoyed. They learned a bad English swear word…but perhaps they already knew it. Back to my room where I had a swig of Sungura (rabbit) gin and went to sleep.
Sun 21st. Actually BN Lodge was very comfortable for the price 12,000 (£4). I didn’t even bother to ask if breakfast was included !! I had a couple of my bananas for breakfast.
My challenge for the day was to get to Bagamoyo Verandah…the campsite that Benjamin and Kulu had started building for overlanders. I’d been there a couple of times; once with Benjamin when it was a bare plot, and once with Kulu when construction had already begun. A shorter walk than I expected…only 30 minutes…well, a bit longer this first time because I took a couple of wrong turns.
The place looked good…not 100% operational…some tweaks needed to the toilets and the kitchen. Beautiful location on the lake shore with a hill behind and big rocks (a feature of this part of Tz) in front in the lake. The downside is the rising water level of the lake. When the verandah was built the water’s edge was about 9mtrs away. Now the water laps at the wall of the verandah, and even goes over it and is starting to wash away some of the shingles. If the water gets any higher it will be an absolute disaster. Sand bags are in the process of being prepared. I just enjoyed my hour and a half there….having a swim, lying in the sun and lying on a mattress on a lounger. Enjoying the sound of the waves lapping on the shore and the peace and tranquility of the location. It was nice to have some sustained sunshine; the first long period of heat in a long time..Then I walked back.
Back in my room I washed my shirt and put out to dry in the courtyard; half an hour later it was dry. I bought my bus ticket to Songea for 12,000. I went to Rehema’s for lunch. I asked for the same beans and rice, but the presentation and flavour was much better than 2 days ago. It even included some veg; strange how things improve if you are deemed to be a ‘regular’. I noticed I get a bit more coffee (for my 6,000 – £2) at Bagamoyo Camping because I go every day.
I walked to the big Square where the Secretary General of the CCM ruling party was appearing for speaches etc. Interesting to see/hear how they go about whipping up the excitement/fervour of the crowd. I checked on what matches were being shown at Zambia, and although it was the other FA semifinal, I went to Bagamoyo Camping for coffee and a sunset. Both were nice.
I returned to Zambia for lots of FA Cup and regular Premier league. Very exciting football and I enjoyed the 2 beers that went with them. Back to the lodge and a power cut. Hoped the power would be restored so that the fan would work. The power returned after 30 minutes or so.
I absolutely love Mbamba Bay. The hills coming down to the bay. The town being by the bay shore. Peaceful.