Mon 5th. No stress as I left late morning from the stand out of town which required a 10 minute boda ride to reach. Left at 11. Arrived 1:15 at Mbinga. Annoyingly long stop, and we left at 1:55 to cover the remaining 68kms. A beautiful drive along the very windy road and through the hills to Mbamba Bay. Arrived at 3:30 at the bus stand situated in the middle of town; a short walk to check out Betheli Lodge. As it seemed OK I decided that was to be my accomm whilst in Mbamba. Price 15,000tsh…about 5gbp.
After settling in I walked over to Bagamoyo camping, owned by Benjamin and Kulu. The placed was closed on Mondays and I found that Benjamin wouldn’t return from his job in Mozambique until after I had left. I went the 10 mins to the London Pub. The name is enough to make any Brit feel at home. Wasn’t hungry and just had peanuts and cashews to eat. A short walk to reacquaint myself with the town. Went to the Weather Pub almost directly opposite Betheli. Chatted to the Manager. Back to the lodging; the power was back; had a shower from a big bucket; the squat toilet was the only real downside to the bathroom.
Tues 6th. Had my black tea and 4 mandazi; this was the breakfast provided every day. Better than nothing. Washed 2 shirts and my jeans. Changed some big notes into small notes at the bank. Walked to the lake shore and along. Started on the main road as if to walk to Bio Camp; saw common sense and got a Noda the rest of the way. Stayed a couple of hours at Bio Camp; had an amazing swim, the lake water is the perfect temperature. Watched the phenomenon of the swarm of insects hovering about the water and being blown along until they make landfall and die. They hatch in the water and congregate into many swarms and just go with the flow…so to speak. ! I had 2 beers whilst taking in the sheer beauty of the location.
Walked to the main road in the stifling heat to cat a boda back into town. Power back earlier than the previous day. Went to the Zambia Pub ..further awurst from the London Pub. Spoke with Rochard. I went across the for kiti moto….which was one of the worst I’ve ever eaten. Went back to Zambia Pub for the second half of the Morocco vs France game. From there to Weather Pub for the conclusion. Then bed.
Wed 7th. Took it easy. Walked towards the end of the beach in the opposite direction. Passed all the fishing boats and any nets that were being fixed. Relaxed, had a swim. Went to Bagamoyo camping and met up with Kulu. Also 2 people who had just arrived from a 3 day drive from Dar. Another coincidence…the guy Alan knew Mike Fritz from Mike’s camp at Ushongo Bay , who met in march.. Had a rice n beans dinner at Rehema’s restaurant, then over to the London and Weather pubs.
Thurs 8th. Usual chai n mandazi for b’fast. Met up with Kulu at Bagamoyo camping and we went by boda to see the plot of land they had bought. She only started work in about Oct, but electric cables are being put in, kitchen and toilets are under construction; a big banda mostly built. It’s going to be a campsite mainly aimed at overlanders. Stayed a few hours. I had a swim. It’s a gorgeous location rightnon the lake shore.
A drink before having dinner of chips mayai. Very tasty but no cutlery was provided. However there were 3 toothpicks sticking out of the chips omelette which I took to mean that’s what I’m supposed to eat with. Maybe quite simply I was supposed to use my hands and the toothpicks to be used for really small bits of food. Anyway, I was being too British to say anything; he was being too polite to say anything. Eating was a struggle, but I managed in the end. Bought drinks for Prima and Alison who work at Betheli. I was enjoying the cream liqueur called Right Choice which I discovered….22% proof, but only small bottles.
I had an early night as I was travelling to Songea early the next day. I enjoyed Mbamba Bay very much. It’s compact. It’s a fishing village, so interesting activities taking place along the lake shore. Bio Camp is a short distance to go and enjoy its beauty. And there are the hills that come down into the lake. A bit of a log getting there, but well worth the effort.