Tues 8th. The dala dala was supposed to leave 4 a.m. so had set my alarm for 3:25. Fortunately I was packed because I was summoned at 3 and we were about to set of when my alarm went off. Just had time to brush my teeth. First half of the journey in the dark was fun on the windy roads going back up the escarpment. Just over 4 hours to the bus stand a long way out of Sumbawanga.
Arrived just in time for the 8:00 bus to Mbeya. Heard the guys discussing the ticket price and I said I’d pay the 16,000 and not the 18,000 that they trued to charge. Comfortable enough trip. Not very exciting countryside. One minor breakdown. We were dropped off quite a distance from Mbeya bus stand and my trip in a bajaji was paid for. Luckily I’m travelling light and can react easily to such unforeseen events.
I was taken to a couple of guest houses…but no WiFi. Was then determined to find Peace of Mind hotel, which was Mark’s recommendations. Got into an argument with the bajaji driver who tried to change the price for a very short ride. My grumpiness kicked in and I tossed a 500tsh coin onto his dashboard and left him cursing. I was still grumpy on reaching the hotel reception and nearly walked away before agreeing to the price of 45,000 for b&b…a reduction from 55,000 originally quoted. But no receipt for my payments…which I wasn’t concerned about. The Red room on the top floor was excellent; I had a view over a bit of the town and the small hotel pool. 45000 is 15GBP. by the way.
So I was 4 nights in Mbeya. The hotel was away from the centre of town and therefore in a quietish neighbourhood. I just explored the area. One day I didn’t eat. Two days running I had chips mayai; first time for 3000..1GBP…and the second time I was only charged 2000…so I kept the food costs down. In the meantime I researched getting to Lake Ngozi. That was to be my one big excursion.
Fri 11th. Took dala dala for 400 to a junction where I changed once. It was a slow dala dala and took 45 mins…stopping/starting etc. The second one cost 2000 and the journey was longer than expected….over golf an hour. Passed one sign to Lake Ngozi saying 7.2kms but told it wasn’t the one. 15 mins later I was dropped of at the second one which said 4.2kms. I got a boda to take me to the entrance gate, for 5,000. Took his number so he could come and pick me up. Nobody at the gate so I just carried on.
Well, this was my big challenge. To climb up to the rim of the 2nd largest volcanic crater Lake in Africa. It took nearly one and a half hours. The path was very overgrown but still visible. The ground had lots of little stones so wasn’t muddy, and the tree roots provided good purchase underfoot. Fantastic view on reaching the top…so thrilled with my achievement. Lots of big insects flying around trying to land on one’s skin and have a bite. If was OK as I was wearing my jeans and a ling sleeve shirt as a precaution.
I took my shirt off to let the sweat dry…remarkably the insects left me alone. Where I reached was the only viewing point, so I stated there for an hour enjoying the magnificent view. The distance from the crater rim was quite large, which surprised me…twice as high as lake Chala..maybe more. I made my down, slipping once and hurting the knee that had been operated on many years ago. The guy was at the gate waiting for me. After a chat I paid 20,000 instead of the 23,500 or 10USD rate. Didn’t try for a further reduction as I was so happy. The boda came to pick me up..another 5,000…dropped me at the main road, and two dala dala rides later I was at the bus stand and booking my bus ticket for the next day.
Sat 12th. Usual 6 a.m. start. I had supposedly bought a luxury ticket but no such thing. Probably paid a few thousand over the going rate, but only 1Gbp. Thought I might get all the way to Mbamba Bay in one day. However, the bus took 3 hours longer than expected. Arrived at the stand at 16:00 and the Mbamba Bay bus had just left.
So , a night in Songea it had to be. Dala into town…it broke down over 1km out so I walked the rest of the way. Eventually found the Ugabe hotel near the dala dala stage…25000 with quite good WiFi. 8gbp. 2 bars later I found a very tasty kiti moto place.
Sun 13th. Took a boda to an out of town stage and caught the bus to Mbamba Bay. 4.5 hours…only 165kms…beautiful scenery…high rolling hills. Excellent tarmac road that had only been completed last year. Arrived after midday so time to find accommodation. First attempt was a long walk out of town but the lodge was secure enough. The St Benedetta’s Sister’s guest house was suggested, and that’s where I ended up. Negotiated price down from 25000 to 20000….7gbp. Comfortable room with a very simple breakfast of a fried egg and 2 bread buns. Tea/coffee of course. My room had a balcony and a great view…the building was on the edge of town and a short way up the hill.
Just town exploration the rest of the day. Chips mayai for dinner. Back to St Benedetta’s just after 9…Sister Pia had already locked up..but probably only just so I wasn’t in any sort of trouble !! The next day I took a 10 minute bida ride to Bio camp. Absolutely stunning place at the end of the Bay. Very peaceful with bungalows for rent. Stayed for a few hours and the swimming was perfect. Had a couple of beers to avoid paying the day charge. Went back into town, boda ran out of petrol just before reaching….Waited 15 mins while someone went to fetch some fuel.
Went to find the Bagamoyo Seafood and Camping place….on the beach and in town basically. Met the owners Benjamin and Kulu…Spanish and Tanzanian. Got on very well. Kulu came from Bagamoyo. I said I had been there once for the Arts & Music Festival in Nov ’19. I said I knew one person there; she asked who; I said Shabani; she said she knew him. It transpired she actually did, as he had been her teacher. I contacted Cecelie in Norway who is married to Shabani, telling her of the incredible coincidence.
The following day I was driven by Benjamin to the other side of the bay to see the plot of land they had bought to build their home. Got stuck in a big road rut and about six guys helped pull us out. Went further around the bay to St Vincent seminary Hotel…huge place up on the hill. Had a swim in the lake. Saw an amazing sight/phenomenon of cloud of insects forming on the lake the flying very quickly over the water until it reached land. Apparently the insects if caught in large enough numbers with big nets, are very tasty to eat. I ate the best ever chips mayai at Bagamoyo camping…made with 3 eggs instead of just 2 eggs. Bought my ticket for 1:30 pm for Songea; couldn’t face another 6 am start.
16th Songea. Another 4.5 hours. Beautiful trip through the High hills. At least I knew my way around. Checked into Ugabe hotel; bought my bus ticket for the next day…to Masasi. Went for delicious kiti moto.
Thurs 18th. Had to report by 04:15 to catch the transport to the bus stand out of town for the usual 06:00 start. Bit of a scrum to get on that first bus. And a wait at the main bus stand. Eventually we were on our way. 6 hours to Masasi and I wondered whether I should’ve got a ticket through to Mtwara instead of breaking the journey. Some very interesting rock forms along the way. Huge standalone rocks the size of a hill. Must find out more. Had maharage na walk as a late lunch. Long walk to Rock Hotel which didn’t gave WiFi so didn’t warrant the price. Back into town and I found a good lodge across the road from the bus stand. Comfortable room with A/c. A bar a 100 mtrs up the road…followed by a good night’s sleep. Was aiming for an 08:00 start at the latest to get to Mtwara.