Tanzania ..Nov’24
22nd Nov ’24..To Moshi ..
Up early and got to and through the Holili border by 08:00. Through immigration quickly…too quickly as the bank wasn’t open to accept my 50Usd for a new Tz visa. So I decided to keep going. Walked up to the stage and it wasn’t long before we were on our way. Slow but steady to Moshi.
I was sitting at the front next to the driver and about half way to Moshi the driver said to me..”I knew your Dad”. It took me by surprise, but obviously very true as he spoke of the Gateway (pub) days and other Taveta facts. In fact he remembered me from Holili and the White House days when I was stuck there for 3 months. His name…Maradona…and I vaguely remember meeting someone with that famous/unusual name.
Arrival in Moshi at about 10:15. I went straight away to Aroma Coffee for a masala chai. The cost has gone up from 2,000 to 2,500. A 5 minute walk down the road took me to the Immigration office. The bad news was that they didn’t issue visas…only visa monthly extensions. That was fine with me, and after some banter and me filling in a form and writing a disclaimer note, they stamped my passport.
I must’ve been there over an hour but they actually processed me very quickly. Then they, not so subtlely, asked me for a little something so they could buy kiti moto for lunch. Despite there being a big sign on the wall saying ‘Corruption Not Tolerated ‘, I had to give 3 of them 10,000 each!!! It wasn’t a bribe, it was a big thank you for being so efficient… It was worth 30,000 (£9).
Over to Airtel to update my sim card registration; it took much longer than I expected. Then to Kindoroko to check in. I was very happy to be given room 102…the best one. I didn’t argue about the price this time, just paid the 23,000..the £7 was good value.
By the time I’d walked to DTB to draw out 300,000 (£85), it was time to go to the Police Mess to meet Catherine. After a nice chat, it was time for Kaka’s. I was starving and ordered my tandoori chicken with rice straight away.
The guys were upstairs smoking from a shisha/huukah as well as joints, listening to reggae music and having shots. I had a few shisha puffs, a konyagi shot, and went downstairs with my Serengeti.
The food was absolutely superb. I was a bit earlier than usual and got to Arawa before dark. One beer there then off around the corner to my hotel for a well earned rest.
23rd Nov…To Arusha.
I was eating breakfast by 07:30…the usual cereals, watermelon and toast. I left for the stage before 08:00. I climbed into one bus, but stepped out when I saw there were only a few people in there.
I got into the next bus, and a voice called out..’Hugh’. Incredibly it was Tecla my friend Emil’s ex partner. I stayed with them for 3 months in Segerea, Dar in 2019.
She was going on to Dodoma on business. But what an amazing coincidence, and I had her company to Arusha.
About 2 hours to Arusha. I went to Midway to check in…30,000 (about £8). I contacted Steve and walked over to Msumbi Coffee at Shoppers where he bought me a coffee and we had a long chat. He kindly also paid for a boda to take me ‘Teacher ‘ to buy my bus ticket to Kahama. Cost 42,000Tsh..£13.
Back to my room; wanted to test the water heater in the bathroom. Contacted Edgar and we arranged to meet at 15:00 at McEllys. That gave me a little time to get to Cold Pub for one beer. On my way to meet Edgar the heavens opened. I only got half way and took shelter outside various shops; the main roads were absolutely flooded.
I got into McEllys after 15:30 and Edgar came over from his Flat just across the road, about 10 minutes later. We had an hour together chatting before he had to go to a rehearsal and me to find some food.
I went back to the area near Midway and to Slope Garden for a couple of beers and a chips mayai.
Then just around the corner to PicNic to have a nightcap and to watch one of the English prem league matches. Although a bit late by my standards, the hotel was only 5 minutes away. I like Midway and because I was leaving early in the morning I knew the fact that the room backed onto the kitchen and dining area, wouldn’t be a problem with noise.
24th Nov…to Kahama.
An 05:30 start which was okay with the bus stand being a 5 minute walk away. I was in the 2nd row and I had an aisle seat so I could stretch my legs. I’d done the route a few times and knew the scenery wasn’t that interesting.
I thought it would take 10 hours, but the 12 hours wasn’t helped by a one hour repair stop. It was just dark when we reached Kahama, but having been there once before, I walked 2 minutes to the hotel just behind the bus stand. I was a bit rude to a guy who wanted to grab my rucksack as I stepped off the bus. I checked in to a much nicer room than I expected; paid my 25,000 (£8); ordered rice and beans; ordered a Safari beer.
The bar lady was surprised when I ordered my own beer at the counter and took it myself to my table. I think I annoyed her by going up to the counter for my second beer (not sure why). Oh, anyway.
What I found strange was that there was no lighting outside in seating area, so it was a little awkward eating. Dinner cost 15,000…or less than a Fiver. The waitress was pleasant, so I gave her a tip. I went up to my room, had a quick shower and had a very comfortable night’s sleep.