Moshi-Marangu 04-07 Mar’24

Mon 4th Mar. Time to head to Moshi with 2 tasks to accomplish. I decided against going with Moshi Express because I didn’t know how long it would take to process my new Tz visa. There is the option to pay in Ke or Tz Shillings but then there is the whole issue of exchange rates. So I just handed over the $50 and the process was quite quick.
I walked up to the stage and immediately got in a dala dala, and we were off. Unfortunately 5 minutes down the road there was a police checkpoint and the six of who were ‘standing’ passengers had to disembark.There are always standing passengers but apparently it’s illegal and the driver had been warned before, so this time he was fined. I waited at the roadside for 20 minutes before another dala dala came along, which was empty, and I resumed my journey to Moshi with no further interruptions.

I had a coffee.  I reactivated/extended my Airtel sim card for the duration of my Tz visa. Then I went to check in at Kindoroko. Pascal and Esther were pleased to see me; I’m becoming a regular now, and they gave me my favourite room…102. Plus my 2,000 discount, taking the cost down 18,000 ftom 20,000. Being on the first floor it has wifi, but soon a router will be installed and the whole hotel will have wifi access.
At this stage it was too early for the Police Mess. I went to Aroma Coffee then checked on Kaka’s ; my suspicions were right about no cooking on Mondays.

I actually had 3 Serengetis at the Mess and I had my drinks in peace as Catherine wasn’t there. I decided to have a Zanzibar pizza at the restaurant right next to the entrance to Kindoroko. The pizza was tasty enough but was served cut up into pieces so that when served it was luke warm. Served with a nice chilli sauce. Another time I’d ask for it not to be cut up. A night cap just around the corner then back to the hotel which was suffering from a power cut.

Tues 5th. Kili was in full view in the morning.  I had the usual cereals, toast and coffee for breakfast. I walked down to the railway track then up through the busy street market area to the East Point Hotel. I was just checking prices, but got irritated when the $15 wouldn’t be translated into Tsh and I was further asked if I was resident or non resident …..at which point I walked out.

On to Fresh for a coffee. Then Aroma Coffee for a masala chai. Then to a nearby supermarket where I bought chevda and shaving razors. Am sure the cashier said the razors were 2,000 each, but the till price was 1,000 each, so I was happy with that outcome  !!!

On to the Police Mess where I met up with Catherine. She told me that the waterfall near her home where she’s wanted to take me, is very popular with tourists and often the road jammed with vehicles. I immediately said…in that case I never want to go there. From there to Kaka’s and the best tandoori chicken ever. This time I had it with rice. A night cap, then off to my hotel room.

Wed 6th. I took my time as I was only going as far as Marangu. Had to wait a little while at Moshi stage for the dala dala to fill up. About half an hour to Himo where we switched dala dalas to go the 12 kms  (takes about 20 minutes) up the hill to Marangu. I relaxed on the terrace of the Craft Shop & Café over a whole thermos (3 cups) of coffee.

From there I walked – needed a bit of exercise – to Kibo htl . Then hopped on a dala to go the short distance to area around Kilasiya Falls. Checked into Devota…about 5th time I’ve stayed there. Room price up from 7,000 to 10,000Tsh, but it’s very cheap at just over £3.
I walked over to the Kilasiya waterfall. I knew there would have to be a negotiation over the entry fee. The rate for a non resident  tourist was 20,000. Of course I refused and ended up paying the rate of for a local Tanzanian, of 5,000 !! I was there for about an hour.  Steep walk up and down but the railings were in good condition and easy to hold on to. Lots of water passing over the Falls, and was able to enjoy the beautiful scenery which I had to myself.

Knowing I would be drinkiing mbege later I decided to have an early dinner. The kiti moto was excellent, except there was more fatty skin attached to the meat than I’m used to. No bones though.  It was washed down with a couple of beers. I went to my room, changed into my jeans, then went for mbege. A lot of the same people as last year. A sweet, slightly mad older lady asked me to buy her a kitochi, and I made her very happy. I bought a few kitochis and chimbukus for everyone to share.  And they really do share; they pass the mugs/jugs around….not sure how hygienic that is. I had a great time….a great social atmosphere.

My friend Joseph eventually turned up and joined the group. By this time it was dark and not long before I went back to my room for an early night. I planned to wake up early with a view to going to Ngangu Hill and hopefully seeing Kili.

Thurs 7th. Tor’s Birthday. I  warned him from Moshi that I might not have Wi-Fi in Marangu and therefore not be able to call him until I reached Taveta.
Set the alarm for 05:15 but I was awake after 04:00. I looked up at the sky and it was clear with lots of stars, so I figured it was worth going to Ngangu Hill to view Kili. Had a bit of a wash (cold water) and waited at the bottom of the road for a dala to Kilema. One came around 06:00. After 06:00 it was still dark and I had to try and remember the route in the dark (although I had been there a couple of timesbefore), using my phone torch.  I reached Ngangu at sunrise after 20 minutes. In my haste to reach the top I took the direct route along little paths with wet grass. It meant my flip flops got wet and walking was a bit awkward as my feet were slipping around.

Anyway, I reached the top as the sun was rising and I had the best view of Mt Kilimanjaro. I was there for at least an hour taking in the splendour of Kili and taking lots of pics. The mountain was clear the whole time I was there. I had to force myself to leave; I was so enjoying relaxing on my own and admiring the magnificent panorama in front of me. A very successful morning.
I walked back to Kilema village and looked for somewhere to eat mtori, but I was too early. I caught the dala to Marangu Mtoni thinking there was more chance of mtori in the bigger village. I was too early for a couple of hotelis but hit the jackpot with a newish restaurant near the dala stage. Absolutely delicious mtori (with inclusion of lemons) and tea for breakfast. I caught the dala back to Devota.

I hooked up with Joseph. We went to Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort nearby and the receptionist showed me around the very fancy/expensive hotel. We went just close by to Joseph’s home where I got a tour of all the herbs, fruit trees, vegetables in his garden. It was jam packed with the biggest variety of produce I’ve ever seen; it was a nursery as well and his knowledge was amazing. He prepared a tea over an open fire from a variety of mints…
A ten minute walk took us to Victor’s coffee processing café.  I had a few cups of natural coffee from freshly roasted coffee beans. Although I said I wasn’t interested, he couldn’t help but give me some of his tourist talk. It wasn’t too much and actually it was very interesting. As for payment, it was left to me to pay what I thought was appropriate. It’s uncomfortable when people do that, but I’d already said I wasn’t there as a paying tourist but as a friend of Joseph’s. I handed over 5,000 which was graciously accepted, but I knew in my heart that paying less than £2 wasn’t much for the nice location, the lovely coffee and the informative chats.

I relaxed in my room and showered; had a beer near the kiti moto place then went for mbege. The sweet, crazy lady hid her face and asked for a kitochi…how could I not buy one for her…!! Good company …lovely people. Joseph and I then went across the road where we shared a Valeur brandy. That was it…then back to my room.