Wed 15th. So, back to Tanzania.
I didn’t get too much sleep…prob a couple of hours. By 2:00 I’d had my cold shower etc and before 2:30 left for the bus stand. Not what I expected…we went by Coaster and not a big bus. A good journey but with lots of pickups and drop offs, so it took nearly 4.5 hours…compared to the 5 hrs from the border to Kigali a couple of weeks earlier.
This time I knew there was a distance at the border from being dropped off and to the Rw/Tz one-stop immigration, so I straight away got onto a boda. Both sets of immigration were plain sailing, and in fact the Tz guy kindly pointed out that my visa had about 2 weeks to expiry. We transferred to a bigger, older bus which at first I thought wouldn’t make it because the driver had to check the engine twice. To cut a long story short, it was another 10 hours before we got to Mwanza via the half hour ferry crossing at Kamanga. The scenery was mainly rolling hills and very green because presumably there had been a lot of rain. Fortunately I palled up with Richard, Tz born who had lived in Germany for 23 years and currently resided in Kigali and that helped the time pass. There was a couple of hours wasted at another bus change about half way to Mwanza, that got very confusing and was glad that I shared the experience with Richard as he had a better idea as to what was going on. We actually paid an extra 10,000Tsh to take a bus that wasn’t our scheduled bus…good decision as it probably saved me a couple of hours.
Torrential rain as we got off the bus but it stopped 15 minutes later as we were about to board the ferry. Small ferry…only able to carry half a dozen cars or a couple of buses and a car… Half an hour crossing before docking at Mwanza, by which time it was dark.
I had my rucksack so didn’t need to get back on the bus. Walked into town…checked on a couple of hotels which I knew would be too expensive…200,000 and 120,000Tsh. I headed in the general direction of JA Hotel but checked Leyshof which was full, then Vizano htl. Couldn’t believe the Vizano rate of 30,000 incl breakfast. The room looked fine, so that was it..decision made. There’s a bar attached so I celebrated with a couple of Safaris. Then went down the road to the open air chicken bbq place. I had a shawarma with chips for 5,000 (about £1.70); very tasty but felt they skimped on the portion size a little bit. Back to the hotel for a nightcap then to bed as I was absolutely shattered. But the day had ended on a high note…
Thurs 16th. Was very pleasantly surprised by the huge buffet breakfast. And prior to that I had a warm shower, so I definitely like and am staying on at Vizano. I went to the port to check on times and cost of ferries to Ukerewe Island. From there I went looking for a coffee and some wifi. I went around in circles for a bit before I got on the right track…passing Ryans Bay hotel and stopping off at Bonasera coffee house for a nice pot of masala chai. I stayed there at least an hour.
I then went a bit further on after the buildings finished…took some photos; was shown around a nearby cemetery, and headed back to the hotel. After a shower I went in search of Coconut Hotel. I remembered from last time how I liked it because it was on the first floor and all the sides were open (lots of fresh air), and the prices were good. It took me a little while to find it, but had an enjoyable couple of Safaris. It was dark by then and having walked back in the direction if my hotel, I decided on a tandoori chicken with chips and cabbage this time. Actually I preferred it to the shawarma although the tandoori chicken was 3,000. (£1) more. Back to my hotel; had a nightcap at the bar attached; used the wifi downstairs; then to bed.
Fri 17th. Earlyish breakfast in order to get to the ferry terminal around 08:30 for the 09:00 sailing. Was a bit worried to see the ticket office was closed. Told I was at the wrong terminal. Hopped on a boda for the few minutes ride. The driver looked me up and down, but I said “don’t look at the colour of my skin, just tell me the correct fare ” !!! Had considered going the next day, but as I had psyched myself up…
A number of anomalies. I thought the fare for VIP was 12,000 but it was 15,000. I thought it was a return fare but was told by the ticket inspector, after we had sailed, that it was one way and would have to buy another one. I thought it was an approximately 2 hour crossing but it was over 3.5 hours. No problem…I really wanted to do it, and it was a smooth journey. But it meant I had less than an hour in Nansio before having to catch the 14:00 return. I remembered where La Bima hotel was from last time; I knocked back a Pilsner and returned to the port. This time I went 2nd class, or was it 1st class, instead of VIP and paid 10,000Tsh…so I saved 5,000. Another 3.5 hours on the ferry, but relaxing being on Lake Victoria. A very heavy rain storm passed over us but only lasted about 20 minutes. Quite exciting watching it pass over the lake. Although I was outside on the deck, I was undercover.
As it was getting on..about 17:45..I got on a boda, for 1,500 to the Coconut Hotel for a couple of beers. I walked back looking for somewhere to eat and settled on a little roadside place where I had beans and 2 chapatis for 900..or just over 30 pence !! Went back to my hotel for a beer and then to my room; the hotel wifi wasn’t working. A fun day out…relaxing being on the water.
Sat 18th. No wifi in the hotel. I washed a shirt and took it up to the rooftop to hang out to dry; had to go up an open staircase on the outside of the building which meant the vertigo kicked in looking at the drop of 4 storeys….not pleasant.
After breakfast I walked to the Information office, which was closed, and on to see the Bismarck rocks. They are quite an incredible sight; they look as though they’ve been dropped there and placed one on top of the other. From there I climbed up (steep) and around Capri point looking at the new expensive houses being built. No problem with the rock foundation once you’ve levelled off the area you want to build on. Having rested at the top for half an hour, it was a downhill walk to Bonasera for a Masala chai. I went into town …drew out sufficient cash to last me one final week in Tz, and went back to the hotel.
I retrieved my shirt…going up and down that horrible external staircase again, and chilled in my room. Showered, jeans on, walked to the Coconut Hotel for a couple of Safaris. Bought a packet of cashews. The guy said 5,000. I said 4,000. We agreed on 4,500…but when it came to the change from 5,000, he gave 1,000. So they did cost 4,000..!! I left there after 18:00; found the same lady to buy maharage na chapatis. I was so generous and left her the 100 bob change, so dinner cost me 35 pence. Back to the hotel for a nightcap and then bed. Still no WiFi at the hotel, but I did have bundles on my Tz Airtel sim.
Sun 19th. Big buffet breakfast as usual. I did enjoy Vizano. Hot water; TV showing BBC & Al Jazeera; balcony; adjacent big, airy bar…and at 30,000Tsh, a good deal. Wandered slowly to where the dala dalas went from. It took half an hour to get to the Nyegezi bus stand; a good decision to sleep there…saved the stress of waking up in time on the travel day to get to Nyegezi by 05:30 ish for a 06:00 bus departure.
The bus stand has been hugely developed since I was here 20 months ago. I booked on Marangu coaches; Loliondo ( who I travelled on from Arusha last time) was full. I didn’t bother with Sherra Inn (recommended by Vigano @ 25,000) or City Side ( where I stayed last time), and went across the road to Passion Htl and took a room for 15,000Tsh. (£5) which was absolutely fine.
Went for a walkabout just to reacquaint with the area. Got slightly disorientated but reached a hotel back near the bus stand where I had an excellent thermos of tea for 2,000. Back to my room and checked on my jeans (that I had hung outside to dry) that I had washed earlier. Walkabout again; was fascinated by how houses were built on the precarious looking rock formations. Certainly a steep climb to one’s house in some cases.
On the way back I stopped at Canaans bar and watched England vs Malta while I quenched my thirst. Back to my room…shower…no towel, but survived…jeans sufficiently dry. Looking for WiFi to no avail, but a drink at a nice hotel..Nazareth. Back to Passion to the restaurant and bar. Craving for chicken, but a half was 12,000 and with rice it was 14,000. Forget it…my room cost 15,000 !! So I went with beans and rice for 2,000. !! Anyway…a nice day in Nyegezi.
Set me up for the trip to Arusha the next day.