Wed 15th. I could take my time leaving the hotel as the matatu stage is only a few minutes walk away. But first I had breakfast at Apache. An hour and half to Nyali despite the road widening taking place between Kilifi and Mtwapa. The main delay was because we were pulled over by the traffic police and spent about 10 mins off the road while something was being checked and some negotiations taking place.
Reached Nyali shopping centre. Beer at Rubis (Kenol) then walked to my apartment room at Bustani. Walked over to Maasai beach bar but didn’t have a drink as too expensive these days. Went shopping at Naivas for steak and noodles and bought vegs from around the corner. Nice to cook for myself. Comfortable room. But had to wash up using a face mask and some pink bubble bath liquid; I mentioned it to the management but nothing happened to rectify the situation.
Thurs 16th. I walked to Nyali shopping centre. Did essential tasks like putting money on mpesa, buying vegs. I checked out Tuliahouse backpackers for prices…very nice, incl a nice pool, but a bit more expensive at 3000 or 3500. Bought an apple mango and what I call a ‘regular’ mango for a taste comparison. Preferred the regular mango; found the apple mango too sweet. Walked the route to the beach where I have to climb over a gate…passed Voyager Beach htl. Chilled. Had a swim. Took pictures of kikois and kangas fluttering in the wind. Ngalawas in the water. Had a shower and walked to Rubis. On the way back I discovered Nest Lounge which sold beer at 250 compared to 350 at Maasai beach bar. On the way back to my room I stopped at another new place called Calabash Gardens. Very nice. Only 5 minutes from Bustani and even closer to the beach..!! The TV in my room isn’t working; nice to watch the news when cooking, but otherwise I’m not too bothered.
Fri 17th. No hurry. I left about 9:30 in a matatu from just outside Bustani. Once in Mombasa City I went to research accommodation. First stop Jundan. Price dropped from 2,500 excl b’fast to 2,000 incl b’fast and a/c. Very good but wanted to look at Duncort which was less than 10 minutes walk away. Passed WhiteSun htl where I stayed once in Oct but knew it wouldn’t compare favourably with Jundan or Duncort. Duncort price dropped from 2,300 excl b’fast to 2,000 incl b’fast but no a/c. I liked the building, I liked the room, so decided to stay there. Only saw later that Club Rio was right next door, but just had to hope it wouldn’t cause too much of a disturbance.
Found that Queens Cafeteria, owned by Ali & Sarah whose hotel Seashells I stay at on Lamu, was closed permanently. Sent Ali a message enquiring whether they were operating from a cafe anywhere else…and the reply stated..’not yet’. Had a nice tea at Live & Joy or Love & Joy…two versions of the sign. Went to the area around Fort Jesus and relaxed. Back up to the hotel and then walked the half hour or so to Kilindini Pub. Stayed half an hour and walked back. A guy called Omar recognised me from Taveta and ran across a roundabout to greet me. I bought maharagwe n chapatis and stopped off at Fantasy nearby. Bought a bottle of Triple Ace vodka and returned to my hotel room for the night. The fan was stuck on full speed…no. 5…but it blocked out any noise from Club Rio…if there was any.
Sat 18th. Awoke. Nice b’fast. Took a walk around Old Town. Some interesting buildings but also parts that are very dilapidated. Walked over to the harbour entrance near Fort Jesus. Walked to Fantasy to watch football. Left to have a quick dinner but Jundan was totally full with people watching football. Walked down Makadara Road and found a place selling delicious bajias. Started with 5 and bought another 5 , and that was my dinner. Back to Fantasy for the 18:00 matches and the one later one then back to the hotel.
Sun 19th. After b’fast I checked out of the hotel and walked in the vicinity of the Old Market. Then met up with Elijah at Old Discovery for tea. About 11:30 I went to catch my matatu to Nyali. I had booked into Bustani room 41 again for the next 4 nights.
Went shopping for sausages and vegetables and noodles. And bought a big bottle of vodka to last 4 days. I stopped in Rubis for one. Another at the Nest and went on to Maasai beach bar to watch the late afternoon match and wait for John. He was Herr Richard to my Fr Franz in Taveta. We had a good long chat. He lives in the Tudor district of Mombasa. Sunday night is music night and the Generation band were on as usual. Good fun.
Mon 20th. Took it easy. A visit to Nyali shopping centre. Went to the beach. Visited Next Lounge then Calabash Gardens. I wanted to check out the latter as a possible place to stay with Mark as an alternative to Bustani.
Tues 21st. Mid morning walk to Pirates. Walked along the beach and visited Thomas…my friend with a kibanda near the beach. Only 30 minutes walk. Had booked my SGR ticket on-line for Thursday…1,000bob 2nd class. Passed by Rubis and Next and called in on Calabash so I could take some photos and discuss rates with Lucy the manager. Had met David a few days earlier and we met again and he very generously bought drinks and snacks. He was with 3 fellow teachers from his school. I returned to my room to cook my sausages etc. My TV still not working, which was only slightly irritating.
Wed 22nd. Walked to Nyali shopping for b’fast. Been having b’fast there every day. A simple tea and mandazi/mahamri. Went to a travel agent to explain that I hadn’t received a confirmation message regarding my train booking. She said the fact I had taken a screenshot of the booking details was sufficient. Walked to the beach. Called in on Calabash and although Lucy wasn’t there, one of the guys showed me around. Still not totally finished but I think habitable if available when it comes to April. More photos taken of Calabash.
My last day in Nyali as I was travelling to Nairobi the following morning. On my walks I had taken lots of nice pics of plants, murals, birds in flight, the beach….and some interesting people shots on the beach…guy riding a camel and 2 ladies carrying buckets of water on their head. A nice combination of Mombasa City and Nyali…a maximum of 30 minutes into and out of the city. I’ll return in April.