Tanga
Thurs 15th May
I woke up a couple of times in the early hours, but as I had a slightly dodgy tummy I was a little concerned about the day’s travel ahead. I packed and went for breakfast by 07:30. I took my time, making sure I didn’t have more than one cup of coffee , and only with a small amount of milk.
I was at the stand just after 08:00. I knew we’d be late leaving, and in fact it was about 09:20. No Kili on view. My seat no. 5 near the front was comfortable. Not much to see of the mountains due to the amount of clouds.
There was one stop at ‘Liverpool’ where I was tempted to have tea, but didn’t want to tempt fate. I’d had a dodgy stomach for the last couple of days and I was worried about getting caught short on the journey. Fortunately I was fine for the entire 7 hour journey…!!!
We arrived around 16:30 at street No.12. I took a boda for 1,500 (45pence) to Ocean Breeze; got room no. 119 with the big balcony for 25,000 (7Gbp) and immediately went out. I said to the manager…’I’m going out’…and he replied…’to Splendid View ?’…they know me too well !!
I reached Splendid, stopping to buy some water along the way. Spoke to Adolf briefly. He reminded me that Coleman was his son in law. I sat in the back garden to finish my second beer, after taking the customary pic of the giraffe nibbling the top of my head..!!
I decided on the Tanga Institute (it was closer), instead of SeaView, for my chicken curry. I had to wait a while, and I didn’t specify boneless, but there was a lot of meat and it was really tasty. I went from there to SeaView and was greeted warmly by Deo. I had one small beer and went back to my room.
Fri 16th May
I was feeling nicely relaxed and took my time getting going. After 08:30 I went downstairs for the simple Ocean Breeze breakfast of 2 slices of bread, one 1 egg omelette, a kaimati and tea.
I washed my travel shirt, draped it on a chair on my balcony and walked to the Bombo cemetery. I was disappointed by what I saw. In the 4 months since I last tidied it, so much grass had grown through the rocks/stones that I’d laid down. There was a guy cutting the long grass…just in general…so I gave him 2,000 to weed/tidy up Gpa’s grave. I said I’d be back the next day to check on it.
I didn’t stay long, then went to Mkonge hotel for a pot of coffee and to use the wifi. I love the view across the harbour and noticed there is a new jetty on the other side of the harbour for the new oil/gas handling facility/port.
I walked back to my room, thinking I might sit in the sun on my balcony, but it clouded over badly. The guy outside Ocean objected to me taking a photo, but I said it was just of his shoes and not him, and I carried on into the hotel.
I relaxed and showered and walked over to Splendid. I drank 2 beers, one of which was in the garden, and although I saw Adolf, he looked/sounded totally pissed so I chose not to talk to him. I decided to go to Tanga Institute again for dinner. Very nice once again.
I thought about going to SeaView for a nightcap, but Deo is irritating me somewhat with his slimey way of asking for a drink, that I decided to go straight back to Ocean. Anyway, I had a good day.
Sat 17th May.
I got going relatively early as I had a few things to do. After breakfast I walked to Ratco to book my bus to Bagamoyo. The same fare as if going all the way to Dar, but I didn’t risk rush hour traffic and having to go to Magufuli stand,which is tedious. Was feeling extravagant and paid for VIP class…seat no. 3 at the front.
From there I caught the dala all the way to Raskazone. I walked around to the Point to check progress of the gas/oil storage tanks and the new jetty. I took photos of the Yacht club and Swimming club along the way. I went to Mkonge htl for my coffee; I had to ‘complain ‘ because there wasn’t sufficient hot water.
Then it was time to visit the cemetery. The guy I gave money to, had done such a brilliant job on Gpa’s grave, that I felt slightly guilty and hung around for a while hoping to see him in order to give him some extra money.
Unfortunately I didn’t see him, and had to leave for town. I went to my room and hung out for a bit on the balcony. I arranged to meet Robert at about 14:30 , but it was after 15:00 by the time we met.
I took him to a hoteli just the other side of the Mkonge offices and we had a good catch-up for over an hour. Moshi the chef, who I knew from Tanga Institute, worked there. In fact, I think Abduli who I originally knew from Kaka’s, is his brother.
I changed into my jeans then went with Robert over the railway tracks to the bank to draw out money. From there it was over to Thinkers Pub, next to the football stadium and across from the railway station, to watch the FA Cup final.
It was a nice pub with comfortable seating, lots of TV screens and very loud music. Yanga were in town to play a fairly crucial game on Sunday, and the streets were very crowded with people and t-shirts for sale.
As for the FA Cup final…a great match to watch in a good atmosphere and with an unexpected result. Crystal Palace beat Man City 1 : 0.
I said goodbye to Robert and went to SeaView for a chicken curry and to say goodbye to Deo. He was being weird again with money/change, so I’m glad he lost my phone number..!!
Anyhow, I enjoyed my boneless curry. I enjoyed my last day in Tanga. I could afford to be out later than usual as my bus wasn’t leaving until 08:45. And I achieved a lot in my Tanga visit, which wasn’t in my original plan.
Bagamoyo
Sun 18th May
I got down to breakfast at about 07:30. After over 20 minutes there was still no sign of an egg to eat, and I was told they hadn’t arrived yet. Oh, okay. I ate a slice and a half of fairly stale bread and went upstairs. Oh, at least the tea was good..!!!
At 08:15 I headed slowly to the Ratco bus office, taking my last pics along the way; it was only 5 minutes walk away. At least there was indoor seating, because there was a torrential downpour. Eventually we climbed aboard.
So, I treated myself. Instead of paying 25,000 (about 7Gbp), I paid 40,000 (over 11Gpb) for a VIP seat…no. 3…at the front of the bus. It didn’t improve my views as there were patches of rain and quite a lot of cloud. But, very comfortable and I got 2 complimentary drinks ( a coke and water), plus some cake.
Under 5 and a half hours to the Bagamoyo stand. I paid 2,000 for a boda to Mega Link, where I stayed last time. I paid 35,000 (10Gbp) for a nice room with weak AC plus fan, plus hot water. I couldn’t understand why the boda guy was hanging around outside, but listened and discovered he was waiting for his commission for taking me to the hotel.
I changed into shorts and flip flops and walked the 10 minutes to the beach. I walked in the opposite direction to the fishing port. I stopped at the ‘Reggae’ beach bar, but it didn’t seem to have the same atmosphere as before.
I went back to the start of the fishing port then cut back to the main road and back to the hotel. I had a quick shower then went next door to Next Level thinking they would show an English football match. Nope. It was suggested I go to Weekend. When eventually I found it (because Google location had it in the wrong place !!), they were only showing the Yanga match as well. I gave up watching UK footie and had 2 beers at Weekend.
I walked up the road to Next Level and ordered their kiti moto. There seemed to be a lot of bones but there was a lot of meat and it was very tasty. There were 2 bananas, katchumbari, lemon, pili pili. I was very happy with it. I drank 2 small beers with it and went back to my room. I timed it right with Phil calling for a chat.
And then I zonked !!
Mon 19th May
Breakfast at about 08:30. Slices of bread, omelette, juice (avocado), andazi, limitless coffee. I paid for another night then walked into town. I went to the old German Boma…took a few photos…before being stopped and told there was an entrance charge. I expressed disbelief as a few years ago it was free. And anyway there’s nothing to see, just bare walls.
I went looking for the fish stalls on the beach, but now there’s a large market been built. And the Old and Arts Market is being rebuilt, so there’s a lot of development in Bagamoyo.
I popped my head into Nashe’s, a fun/quirky restaurant/café…a nice place to treat yourself. I then went to the beach and sunbathed for over an hour as I was experiencing prolonged sunshine for the first time in a fortnight.
From there it was back to my room for a shower before going into town to Weekend for a couple of beers. Shabani got in touch and said he’d meet me at Weekend. He arrived at about 17:00 and we had a good catch-up about Cecile and their 2 daughters in Norway.
As it got dark I went up to Next Level and ordered a kiti moto. It was okay, but not as good as the first night. Then of course Mega Link is virtually next door…my very comfortable room and good Wi-Fi. Oh, and I phoned Tor and he was able to chat for a bit, so that was really good.
Tues 20th May
I slept well. I went for breakfast around 08:30. All was well until I went to the counter for a tissue, and a crow/raven swooped down and stole my omelette and dumped it in the hedge. I was looking forward to that omelette…oh well..!!!
It was to be an easy day. A walk into town and more of the backstreets this time. I made my way to the beach, sunbathed for only half an hour or so before the clouds came across. I thought it was a good excuse to go and wash my zebra shirt and hang it outside for a short time.
I just relaxed as my phone was on charge. There was a City of Tanga FB post to do and catch up on world news. Back into town and to Weekend to pass the time before meeting Shabani.
After 5pm I went across the road to New Malikia which was where we were due to meet. A nice big bar with lots of open spaces, good music and a place to people watch. I’d already messaged Shabani, and by 6:30pm it was obvious he was held up at work.
So, I went up the road to Next Level, had a kiti moto…which was better than the day before…and retired to my room.