Mon11th
The bus departed on time but the Tahmeed was an older one and dirty with cockroaches. I like the large seats though, and you don’t have anyone sitting right next to you. Good journey…at 6 and quarter hours, only 15 mins longer than last time. Lots of oranges along the way…obviously the season. Disembarked at a stand in Chumbageni and had a 25 minute walk to the hotel; I was expecting it to be a bit less. I checked into Ocean Breeze and got room 119 on the second floor. It was on the other side, so not facing the 1901 Clock tower and the harbour, but the side of the old Market and towards the town.
I walked to Mkonge Htl and relaxed with a coffee. From there I went back into town and to Splendid View. I saw Adolf this time. Had a couple of beers. I asked to borrow a hoe to take to the cemetery the next day. Adolf was insisting on getting someone to carry it for me to the hotel but I said I was perfectly capable… Went to SeaView for a curry, then back to my hotel which is only 5 minutes walk away.
Tues 12th. Went down for breakfast. By the way, the breakfasts are terrible. The best thing about them is the coffee. One morning I was served casava; I’m not a fan of potato for breakfast!! The omelette is bland. No butter to put on the bread ( no toast ). Anyway, it fills a gap.
I walked to the cemetery…saw Grace’s (Adolf’s mother who died in May) grave . G’pa’s grave was quite overgrown and it took over an hour to clear it and some of the surrounding area. I stripped down to my shorts and sweated buckets in the heat. Fortunately there was a bit of shade from a tree nearby. After I finished, a butterfly fluttered around the gravesite and landed on the hoe handle; I took that to be a sign that the work/effort was appreciated.
And then the usual routine of Mkonge for coffee….but unfortunately the WiFi was very poor. I caught the dala dala back, as I was carrying the hoe and felt quite tired.. And, I wouldn’t have to face all the comments and stares; people find it intriguing that there’s a white guy walking the Tanga streets carrying a hoe. Nice comments though. Showered at the hotel and felt revitalised. Returned the hoe to Splendid View. Walked over to Nyumbani Htl ( which is on the way to SeaView) to use their WiFi. Only stayed half an hour or so then over to SeaView for a curry. Chicken curry again. The gardens opposite SeaView are still surrounded by fencing, meaning that whatever renovation is going on is taking a long time to complete. Nice chats with Deo the waiter/barman. Then Ocean and bed.
Wed 13th. After breakfast I walked over to Ngamiani to book my 20,000 (£6) bus ticket on Raqeeb to njiapanda . I caught the dala dala right across town from Ngamiani to Raskazone. My mission was to find the Tanesco building for Jill who lived there in the 60s. No problem finding it, but with a high security wall and nobody home, I couldn’t take decent photos of the place. I went on to Navy Beach…about 5 minutes away. Walked down to the little patch of beach and inspected the mangroves and their strange root system. I walked around the Point and took pictures of the Yacht club and Swimming club before going for coffee at the Mkonge Htl. Then back to my hotel, relaxed on my verandah, spent a short time at Splendid and Nyumbani Htl for WiFi, and on to SeaView. Was hoping for a prawn curry but apparently the ocean was too cool and prawns weren’t in season. It seemed a bit odd to me, but enjoyed my chicken curry anyway. And, Mathias who was the manager at Drifters in Ushongo Bay….where I stayed for 3 days in early April ’22….made the effort to come over to SeaView. Had a good catch-up for about an hour, then to my room. Really enjoyed my time in Tanga as usual, but next day Taveta.
Thurs 14th. Obviously I was too early for breakfast. Checked out of the hotel and walked (about 20 minutes) to the Raqeeb booking office. Then taken by dala dala to the Kange bus stand ( about 10 minutes drive) for the 06:30 departure. There was some confusion and my seat booking couldn’t be found initially. Partly my fault because the ticket which I’d put in my top pocket got slightly ripped and faded with sweat. It was illegible…didn’t help. I got the correct seat in the end. We left on time. Good journey. Just one big stop for a comfort break. Otherwise, Muheza, Korogwe, Mombo, Same`, and finally njiapanda.
I got off at the junction (the bus went the other direction to Moshi) and I walked across the road for the Holili dala dala. It only went as far as Himo and was jam packed. The comments in those circumstances are very funny. I was squashed but at least I was sitting. Changed at Himo for Holili and that was jam packed as well. I helped an old lady who was refusing to pay, with her fare, otherwise we weren’t moving. Then the driver slightly overshot the entrance into the Holili stage, which got everyone laughing. I went over to Dubai and Mercy joined me about 15 minutes later. We ate a delicious kiti moto and enjoyed a few beers.
Late afternoon we went to the border. I presented my E-visa printout and it was straightforward to result in a stamp in my passport. Where I did have a problem was with my yellow fever cert on the Kenya side. They don’t normally even ask, but its validity was questioned and a big stack of fake ones were shown to me. All ridiculous as, because of my age, I don’t need one anyway. Maybe that’s what caused the confusion. Got through safely and made it down to Taveta. I got into my room but as it was still relatively early I popped into Rockland for a drink. So, over 2 fun packed weeks in Tz and now back in Kenya.