Wed 24th. I had a really good sleep and even at 4am I was feeling refreshed. I got up to catch a view of Kili, but a bit too much cloud, although I could see there was a lot of snow. The hotel kindly enabled me to have breakfast early, then I went to the bus stand. The bus arrived on time from Arusha but our departure time of 07:30 actually became 08:15. Kili was in full view; I took some pics from the bus, but had I stayed another day in Moshi I would’ve got some fabulous photos.
Seat no. 2 behind the driver was comfortable. A bit slow getting out of Moshi but the 7 hours travelling, with one stop, and arrival at 03:15pm in Tanga was fine. A fifteen minute walk from street 12 in Ngamiani to Ocean Breeze htl; I checked in then found Mark in his room.
After a quick catch up we walked over to Splendid View, saw Adolf and relaxed with a couple of beers. Then it was over to SeaView for a curry dinner. I had prawns, but I found them totally tasteless actually, so back to having chicken which is a bit cheaper anyway. Mark and I shared a large bottle of K Vant spirit, as a change from drinking beer. The big change is the completion of Uhuru/Forodhani gardens renovation opposite SeaView after over a year. It’s more open now; the hedges have been replaced by lots of big paving slabs and concrete benches. Otherwise, from what I’ve seen of Tanga, the Town hasn’t changed much.
Thurs 25th. A very good nights sleep. By 09:00 I was down for breakfast. Two slices of bread and an omelette, a mandazi and two cups of coffee …it was enough. It’s amazing how things taste better when sharing the experience with someone else. Mark and I then walked to Mkonge Htl via the Airtel shop where I bought some SMS for my phone. We ordered coffee for two and enjoyed the view. No Wi-Fi on the verandah anymore…annoying. If you type messages you then have to go to the reception area and wait 5 minutes to hook up to the Wi-Fi…grrr!!
Whilst Mark went back to the hotel I went to the cemetery to check on G’pas grave. Not too much work to be done as I only cleared it in September. By sheer chance Robert came out of the property across the road. His family had sold their home to a wealthy guy who has built a 5 room lodging there, and Robert has got himself a caretaker job there. I was so glad to see him as I had lost his phone number.
I walked back to the hotel; sat in the sun on my balcony; showered; popped down to see Mark who had moved to an air conditioned room, then walked over to Splendid View. I asked Adolph if I can borrow a jembe.. hoe. Yes, that was no problem. Of course I got the usual comments and stares as I walked through town with a jembe over my shoulder. I stopped at Nyumbani Hotel so that I could use their WiFi for my FB post. Then on to SeaView for a chicken curry, and back to the hotel.
Fri 26th. Before the usual 09:00 breakfast I went to Airtel to top up my internet bundle. And same disappointing breakfast consisting of a slice of bread, a little omelette and 2 mandazi; at least it filled a small gap. We caught a dala dala to just beyond the Swimming club and walked the 15 minutes to Navy Beach. Not much there, but nice view of sea and mangroves. We walked back to where the dalas turn around to go back into town.
Mark went off for a coffee while I checked on Ratco times to Dar and where they dropped off. Good news in that they go all the way to Lumumba St in Kariakoo so we won’t be far from our hotel. I then stopped off at the Blue Room for tea and bhajias before going back to my room.
After 3pm we went to the Tanga Institute to meet up with Mathias. He was slightly strange company this time…not someone I would want to meet up with again. And so, over to SeaView for chicken curry and rice; at least the evening ended on a positive note.
Sat 27th. Breakfast a bit earlier at 08:00 in the hope that things wouldn’t be running out…like milk for the coffee. Instead, the coffee ran out !! I collected the jembe from my room and walked over to the cemetery. The weed clearing went smoothly as there had been a lot of rain in the night so the ground was quite soft. Robert helped/provided me with a wheelbarrow and spade. I got a few barrow loads of gravel from across the road to heap on the grave, and finished off with a small rock on each corner and a bigger slab in the middle. A good job done. Of course I was sweating like mad but at least the sun wasn’t fully out. Robert showed me inside the new lodgings across from the cemetery where he now works, which under the old structure a year ago was where he lived with his aunt and grandma. He then walked with me as far as Mkonge Htl.
I had coffee in the garden; got my 3 cups for 4,000Tsh. Much setting up of seats and tables for a wedding later in the day. The Wi-Fi was annoying but I managed to upload a FB post. I caught a dala dala back; I was too tired to walk it whilst carrying the jembe as well.
I returned the jembe to Adolf at Splendid. Popped into Nyumbani on the way to SeaView. Mark & Wales joined me at 6:30. I had a chicken curry again but with naan bread this time. Lots of chat , and a couple of hours later we returned to Ocean Breeze.
Sun 28th. Breakfast was just slightly better than usual. Although the black tea was so weak that I added a little coffee to give it flavour. Being Sunday the Airtel shop was closed, but I was able to top up outside the Bombo Hospital. I stopped at Mkonge for coffee ; a bit of a mistake having a hot drink in that heat…I was constantly sweating.
There started the most frustrating 10 hours. I was meant to meet Nasrah from the hotel..on her day off..at the Swimming club at midday. It didn’t happen as she was busy, but at least I took some photos and enjoyed the sun. Then, despite her promises to meet me in the evening…it never happened.
29th- 30th. I spent more time on my own after breakfast. My main task was to take photos of the Fernandes house ( Joe’s) for Joanna and Edgar…not sure why, but they asked me to. I went from there to the Greek Church and our old Chumbageni house and back into town.
I found the old Majestic cinema and went in and took a few pics. It seems to still operate as a cinema; I think I saw the Sound of Music there a long time ago. !!! I tended to pop into Nyumbani in the late afternoon to use their WiFi. Apart from that, I’ve had crumb friend fish and chips a couple of times at SeaView…so, so delicious.
A couple of times to Mkonge for coffee. Today I went in both directions in a dala dala; I didn’t want to exhaust myself !! Or maybe I’m feeling my age !! This time I went passed the Yacht Club and around the Raskazone point…not much to see really, so back to Mkonge. Not very relaxing, just very hot ..esp at 3-4 pm. The late afternoon/evening are surprisingly fresh actually, with a bit of a breeze.
So, nice evenings with Mark. Dulla stopped off on 29th…good company. The room is great, and I’m keeping on top of my washing; it doesn’t take long to dry in this heat. Mark discovered Foodie Food as a place for good value snacks. I’m really enjoying Tanga. It doesn’t change…still sleepy/slow/relaxing.
30th Jan..After breakfast we went to buy our Ratco tickets to Dar. Back to take more pics of the Fernandes house. I caught the dala all the way to Raskazone and walked passed the Yacht Club ( had to take a couple of pics of course, from the top of the steps ) and part way around the Point, before walking back to Mkonge for a coffee. Met Mark briefly at Foodie Food; they do such tasty snacks. I managed to buy Internet credit for my phone even though the Airtel shop had been technically closed for half an hour!!!
Went to Splendid where I met Adolf. I relaxed on my balcony for half an hour. I made it to the Tanga Institute for a chicken curry. Abduli is the chef; he was the chef at Kaka’s, Moshi a few years ago…good to see him again. Dinner took a while to come but it was absolutely delicious. I arrived back at the hotel at the same time as Mark; he had been to the Yacht club for dinner with his friend. We had a nightcap in the Ocean bar and went to our rooms.
31st. It was a short walk to the Ratco office in town for 05:30. We left for Kange at 05:45, and just after 06:00 we were on our way. We had the VIP cheap seats at 25,000Tsh instead of the Luxury 40,000 at the front !!! Very comfortable trip and quick too.
I was mislead at the Tanga office when told the final destination was Lumumba St in Kariakoo, when in fact it was the new Magufuli bus stand. The 6 hours to there was good going but we had to transfer to a smaller bus to go the 23kms (over half an hour) to the city. Even then we were dropped at the Ratco booking office on Morogoro road, and that was when I lost my ‘cool’. The same thing happened in October so I was half expecting it. I stood up…started shouting for the bus to stop…marched up to the front of the bus, still ranting…all to no avail. I was so angry, but it was amusing for the other passengers to witness my tantrum..!! We then had another 15 minutes in a tuk tuk to the hotel; negotiated an 8,000 fare which was fine for the two of us.
We checked in to Riki Hill…my usual place. Mark wanted a snack, then I walked to the bank ATM and met up with Mark at the ferry terminal. We bought our ferry tickets to Zanzibar for 98,000Tsh each (same price as in Sept & Oct). We walked back to Kariakoo. Mark went back to the hotel while I bought some chevda and went across to the Congolese bar. After a couple of Safaris I met up with him at 24/7. We went a bit mad and shared 2 bottles of K Vant; fortunately the Riki Hill is right across the road… I snacked on chevda and cashews in my room. I obviously fell asleep whilst doing so, as there were some cashews strewn on my sheet the next morning !!! Next morning Zanzibar.
What is chevde!