On Mon 17th I crossed the border to check if Shayo was true to his word and had opened the kiti moto kitchen at Kings Palace , Holili. Yes, there it was with the newly employed chef, and I reminded him that he offered the first kiti moto for free. No bananas, but a half kilo of meat was filling enough and no complaints as it was free. Good quality meat although the flavour wasn’t as good as Mamka’s.
We’d 19th I caught the 08:00 Naekana to Mombasa……good trip 5.5 hours. Followed up on Carkey’s recommendation of a cheap 1000 bob hotel. After some confusion as to where I was because my phone map wasn’t cooperating, an elderly gentleman took me down some side streets to the Hyde Corner Park hotel. Am glad he stopped me because I was about to go in totally the opposite direction. It was the correct hotel and still cost 1000 per night even tho Carkey was last there 4 or 5 years ago. The plaster in the room was crumbling and brackish water came out of the shower ( meaning that soap didn’t lather ), making washing difficult…..but there was a fan and a mosquito net and a comfortable mattress.
As it happens the New Palm Tree was still closed for renovation, but was enjoying discovering a different part of the city which was still very central. Went to the Fantasy bar for a reasonably priced beer. Then went to Casablanca Bar which Carkey had recommended. I’m so naive….put my popularity with the gorgeous ladies around the bar down to the novelty of a white face. Only later did it dawn on me that it was because of the white face and prospect of lots of money !! Their request for a beer was turned down, ad was their request for a bottle of water. They picked on the wrong guy…. I wasn’t Castle Hotel calibre…!!! Just had one drink, used the WiFi, then went to Fontanella for chicken n chips. Nicola the half Ethiopian half Somali was totally gorgeous tho. Good live band during dinner at Fontanella made for a pleasant evening. It’s a restaurant that Dad used when he travelled up from Tanzania on his motorbike in the 1950s.
I fancied a little beach visit on Thurs, but for a change I crossed on the ferry to Likoni and got a boda to Shelly beach. Wasn’t impressed….no hotels or nice beach bars, and the sand had a strange texture. I walked quite a long way along the beach, relaxed for a couple of hours and returned.
Showered in the salty water; found the famous ‘Tusks’ that straddled Moi avenue; went to Casablanca Bar where I was duly ignored by the same ladies from the evening before; went to Fontanella for another chicken n chips.
The next morning I went to the matatu stage for Kilifi; caught the shuttle for 250ksh..2 pounds…. and had the quickest trip ever to Kilifi…1 hour 20 mins. Checked into Hotel Titanic , and being Friday their special weekend rate was in Place at 1500 instead of 2500….about 12 quid instead of 20.
As I was early I walked to the beach, had a swim…walked back to the hotel and showered/changed for the evening. Got a boda to Podapi htl where I was to meet Maina and Nyambura. Had a litre bottle of local vodka between us….phew.
On Sat I had another beach walk then later met up with Maina at a local bar near his home. The bar only sold mnazi…Palm wine..made a change, altho not the best drink in the world….but it was fun to drink out of a coconut cup that was to be given to me as a present the following day. On Sat n Sun I caught up with UK football across the road from the Titanic .
On Sunday I had a long walk along the beach and met Maina at the Zimbabwe Bar. It’s become a tradition to take a photo of our long shadows as the sun is setting.
So, Mon morning I left Kilifi for Taveta via Voi, taking the short cut route via Kaloleni and Mariakani. Am sure the 500ksh from Mariakani to Voi ( just under 2 hour journey ) was a rip off but it looked a comfortable bus and I couldn’t be sure how easy it would be to catch another one.
Paused in Voi for a soda and to buy some Chevda. Had to wait 45 mins for the matatu to fill up. But, on the way to Taveta, seeing a herd of elephants having a mud bath was a real treat.
Tuesday 25th was Dad’s birthday and I took Mercy across the border for kiti moto. It was very fitting, because Dad would’ve had a field day complaining. The food that was served was cold and had to be sent back to be heated. And the beer was warm. It was a fun evening because it was different, but the quality and service were very poor. Had to revise my verdict on Kings; it was a shame that Shayo wasn’t there to complain to.
Wed/Thurs I chilled in Taveta. On Friday I cycled to El Doro. This time I found the big rocks that I had first seen 10 yrs ago. I realised that a few weeks ago I took a right instead of a left and that’s why I didn’t see them; all the time they were just the next hill to the one I was standing on. Hot , hot day and I was exhausted on reaching Taveta. I did find time for one beer at The Place….20 mins from Taveta
Saturday 29th was spent recovering fro the cycle ride and watching football on tv.
