Dar es Salaam
Sun 30th Aug
I tried to get some sleep on the hard seating in the terminal waiting area. Lots of other people all laid out…. Needless to say, that with all the tossing and turning and trying to get comfortable, I hardly got any sleep.
I got up after 5am. I had a large Java House coffee. I checked the location of my departure gate. After 7am I went to the Safaricom desk and put 500Ksh on each of data bundles and calls credit. Prior to that I had changed 20Usd into 2,500Ksh.
Our 07:40 was delayed until 08:15, and then we sat on the plane outside the Gate for 2 hours. The pilot apologised a few times for what was basically the lack of organisation/efficiency of the airports authority.
So we were very late leaving for what was only a 1 hour and 10 minutes flight to Dar. That all paled into insignificance because we passed right over/by Kili. All of it …Kibo & Mawenzi were totally free of any cloud cover; the view was absolutely amazing. We were right there…incredible. The one negative was that the snow and glaciers have seemingly virtually disappeared. I wonder how long before they are totally gone.
We landed in Dar at 11:20. This was quite a feat….I got my 50Usd visa. I collected my luggage. I walked out of the airport to the main road ( which is now fully tarmacked).
I negotiated a bajaj for 8,000Tsh, down from 10,000Tsh, to Temeke Mwisho ( it was further than I though from looking at maps). Near the bus stand I booked a 35,000Tsh ticket on a Barcelona bus to Lindi. I walked the 10 minutes to the 5G hotel and bar/restaurant and got a 25,000 A/C room ( because it would be quieter); I could’ve gone for 20 000 with a fan.
12:50 I was in my room…1.5 hours from landing. I was very proud of myself !!!
I had a shower. I went for a short walk around the block and arrived back at 5G. I bought 2 large Serengetis at 3,000 each. I looked at meal options, and the roasted chicken appealed most, but not with chips as that would be too filling.
I persuaded a young lady to give me a handful of ugali at no extra cost !! So, I had half a chicken, ugali, salad, nice chilli sauce for 7,000zTsh. All the time the Sunday premier league matches were being shown on a couple of biggish screens.
One more beer and back to my room around 6pm…I was pretty tired.
Lindi
Mon 31st Aug
Of course I was up before the 05:15 alarm. The noise from the bar had been V V V loud !! I was tired so got lots of dozing during the night. I put the a/c and fan on in the hope of blocking out noise. It didn’t work, and I succeeded in getting very cold.
But I did doze. In the middle of the night I managed to find my ear plugs…they certainly helped. It was a comfortable room at least. I showered; I packed; I returned my key. It was only 5 minutes walk to the bus stand…so convenient.
We left bang on time at 07:00. Seat B3, one from the front. It took a while to get through Mbagala (Rangi Tatu) bus stand; Temeke is certainly preferable. A good trip taking a bit longer than expected at nearly 8 hours. The road didn’t help…it had deteriorated a lot since last time..last year??
Otherwise, the weather was good. My seat was comfortable. We arrived Lindi about 14:45. I was rude about the lady standing and blocking the steps off the bus. I walked to Machenza to check their room price. Their rooms are small with squat toilets, but they do have wifi.
I headed to Lindi One lodge, bumping into Rehema from Nageme ( where I stayed on my second visit to Lindi), along the way.
Lindi One wasn’t as smart as I remembered it, but it had a water heater, A/C , sit down toilet and wifi. And to cap it all, I negotiated the price down from 25,000 to 20,000Tsh ( £6 ) per day. Decision made, despite the shower and TV being broken.
We agreed that I pay the next day, although I was a bit concerned that Ayubu couldn’t provide a receipt…well he wasn’t sure… I changed into my shorts and a clean shirt and went to Magereza on the waterfront.
It was nice to be remembered/recognised along the way. One of the beach huts had been washed away, and the other one was inaccessible. The bar itself was looking very grubby; they were about to start work on the wood beams.
I walked a tiny bit up the beach , checking that. The bar opposite Califonia still cooked kiti moto, but I went further into town where I had a tasty chips mayai. There was a Yanga vs?? taking place and the bars were quite busy.
I went back towards the waterfront and popped into Califonia for one beer. I left there for Rehema’s bar. It wasn’t where I thought it was, so I went to Nageme to find her. She took me to her bar but had to open up as I was a bit early….before 8pm !!
I didn’t fancy beer so I had a small bottle of Smart gin with a soda. I ended up treating Rehema and her friend over a fun chat. Eventually I departed, but not before buying another small gin bottle for my room.
So, my first day in Lindi was a great success. Having Wi-Fi, I could catch up on news and send various messages. My room was very comfortable. I decided on fan only for the night as there seemed to be only one speed…fast…and adding the AC would probably make it too cold.
Tues 1st Sept
I had a good sleep. I got going after 08:00 to go to the dinosaur roundabout for their morning coffee. They seemed pleased to see me. I spent virtually a whole hour talking to Arnold…a mix of Swahili and English.
He had to go for work in town and it happened to be bang opposite the immigration office, so we walked together. Immigration remembered me…well, its the 4th time I’ve reported in.
On my way back I had a tea. And then on to the Airtel office to get a new Sim card. After waiting for a while, I was told the systems were down and my visa details couldn’t be accessed and I would have to return the next day.
I went back to Lindi One. My shirt was dry. I paid Ayubu for 3 days…60,000Tsh. I went down to the beach and sat in the sun. I walked up the beach to my huge tree trunk, which seemed to have been washed up nearer the main road, and lay on that for a bit.
I went across the road to Agape and said I would be back for 18:00 kiti moto. I crossed over to Califonia for one beer before going back to Agape. I didn’t get my meal until after 18:30, but I was in no hurry, and it was absolutely delicious…a bit of fat, but hardly any bones.
I went from there to Rehema’s new place for one beer. Nice and close to my lodging. It was nice to observe some of the evening activities. There were a lot of kids rushing around.
And so, back to my room and making good use of the Internet.
Wed 2nd Sept
I had an upset stomach during the night (I can only assume due to the kiti moto dinner) so a bit of an interrupted sleep. I probably won’t go to Agape again. I washed and got going before 08:00 as that was the time I arranged to meet Arnold at the dinosaur coffee.
I had 2 coffees but had to leave before 09:00 for the Airtel shop. I was in there over an hour, waiting patiently for the guy to set up my Sim; there were other people going in and out as well. He finally succeeded but I had to return at 1pm to actually collect it.
I needed a chai, so I went to White’s. I don’t understand why I can’t get ordinary ‘African ‘ tea there. They always seem to be confused by my request and I end up having hot milk with a tea bag. Not great, just ok.
I went to my room to relax as I was feeling a bit weak and tired; the bad night had taken its toll. Over to Airtel just after 1pm. I collected the Sim card and loaded it with a ‘combo’…10,000Tsh of data and calls/SMS.
I fancied a samosa or two. Himo One was just up the road, but they were all sold out. I decided I needed some food, but something simple. I went for a chips mayai at the same place as on my first day. Chips freshly cooked. Eggs freshly cracked. Can’t go wrong…in theory !!
I relaxed in my room again. There was a shortlived powercut. The thing I really like about Lindi is that everything is a short walk from each other; it’s nice and compact. Even the beach…a nice quiet beach, and a couple of 100 metres away and you’re virtually in the centre of town.
I went down to the beach and along to my favourite …in fact only one !…big tree trunk. I sat there for a bit, with the sun going in and out, before going to Magereza..
I still wasn’t feeling great. I went to Rehema’s new place for one small beer then the 1 minute walk to my room for an early night. There was probably a lot of sleep I needed to catch up on.
Thurs 3rd Sept
I felt much, much better. I reached the dinosaur for coffee at 08:15. Had a good chat with someone who has always been there in the past. I drank 4 coffees and bought one for a guy with a mental disability.
A few shops away was the Soweto barbers where I went last year. The outcome was the same…am totally, utterly bald. I asked for a no. 2. but got a no. Zero !! Am a bit embarrassed to look at myself, but at least it will last a while. And it only cost me 2,000Tsh…or 60pence !!
I went back to my room briefly to get my key. Somea had given it a good clean and changed the bedding excetera. From there to the beach and to my tree trunk briefly. And then to the Seaview Hotel…I guess it’s the nicest, most expensive in Lindi. Great location facing the bay. I had a thermos of coffee producing 3 cups, for 3,000…or 90pence.
And back to my room via the tree trunk. A group of school kids came to the beach, and it was interesting how the boys and girls kept to distinctive groups. My T-shirt was dry and I hung up a pair of socks and underpants instead.
I paid Ayubu 60,000 for another 3 days. I walked to Gymkhana where I had Kilimanjaros for a change; they were cheaper at 2,500…or 75pence. I was thinking of food, but spoke to Happy in a chemist instead.
I bought a packet of crisps and savoury nibbles from the supermarket, then a KVant from an off licence, and continued on my way to Magereza.
But, there was a commotion on the beach near my tree trunk. It transpired that a boy of about 12, 13 or 14 had got into swimming difficulties and had in fact drowned. Lots of people were gathering; an ambulance was on the scene. As if that wasn’t bad enough, they couldn’t find his body.
Many kids had come from Newal…a few hours drive from Lindi…for a day at the seaside, only for it to end in tragedy. I’d had a good day up to that point, but that incident certainly saddened me for the rest of the day/evening.
I went to Rehema’s for a small beer or 2 then on to my room. I tested my Airtel sim by contacting Slim in Kilwa Masoko to give my new number and to say it would be good to see him, but that I wouldn’t be visiting Kilwa this time. He messaged back saying he would try to come to Lindi at the weekend.
I messaged Terry then got ready for bed.
Fri 4th Sept
I got up before the 07:30 alarm and got to the dinosaur roundabout at 08:15. Arnold was there and we had a good chat.I drank 4 coffees and I bought him one, so that made up the 1,000Tsh note.
I walked to Himo One and managed to get the last 2 samosas. Their tea was awful…very watery…hardly any milk. I walked back to my room with the objective of responding to Richard’s email; actually he only wanted me to resend what I originally sent him.
I walked down to the beach and beyond SeaView; I put lots of suncream on, it’s been very hot the last few days. On the way back I picked up a couple of broken bottles on the beach and put them in a bin at SeaView.
I heard that they were still looking for the body of the boy who drowned. Apparently at the time of leaving and everyone was being counted, they realised he was missing.
I discovered that I’ve lost the blue cap that I got as a xmas present in NZ. It’s done well, having tried to lose itself a couple of times. I had a wander around town looking for any shops that sold caps…but nothing yet.
I went to Piri’s hoteli for one beer, but decided to have a meal there as well. So I had rice, beans and greens…fairly traditional meal. At a cost of 1,500Tsh…less than 50pence. Meal including drink was 4,000…about £1.20…ridiculously cheap.
I went to a noisy Gymkhana for one…
Then down to Magereza. After a little while a guy called Feliciano came over to my table, and we started having a very interesting conversation. It meant I had to have a second beer, which I hadn’t planned on. Then back to my room which is only a few minutes away.
I first treated Rehema to a small beer from her bar; I must be her best customer. A tiring day with lots of walking around.
Sat 5th Sept
An early wake up because I wanted to get to my dinosaur coffee by 08:00. A nice chat with Arnold over my 4 coffees. I actually had to use my umbrella for the first half of the walk there.
I took a slightly different route back L One…down to the waterfront and along and up. After chatting with Rehema in Nageme, I went to SeaView Beach and ordered my milk coffin a thermos. I had to figure out the Bluehost billing ( my blog annual sub ) for another day. I did some catching up…the month of June.
I left after nearly 2 hours. I walked through town looking for a shop selling caps, but to no avail again. Back to Lindi One. Not surprising…no wifi. I had one small beer at Rehema’s then went to Magereza to meet Felix.
The place was busy so we had to sit to the edge of the banda. I drank a lemon and ginger flavoured spirit (TZee) that Felix had bought. The chat was interesting and fun, but I went up the road looking for somewhere to watch the 3pm kickoff matches (5pm local time). I chose Biashara pub because it’s big and spacious and usually shows 2 matches at a time.
At least Spurs got their 1st point of the season. Man C won. The sad news was that the young boy’s body was found in the water.
I had 1 drink at Rehema’s then went to my room. The location of my lodge is interesting…listening in on the conversations and seeing how everyone interacts with the children.
Sun 6th Sept
I woke early…too early. as the coffee guy was late. The charcoal wasn’t even lit so I went to Sande fast foods for tea and kitambuo. A bit expensive at 2,000Tsh.
Back to my room. I checked out the beach. An easy day. I went across the street and bought 5,000Tsh worth of data bundles. I went back and forth to Magereza for a supposed 12pm hook up with Felix. It didn’t happen.
I went to my tree trunk on the beach and back to my room. I walked along the beach; it was sunny and hot. It was also very quiet as many people go to church. I washed my shirt and showered. I bought the ladies a drink and went to Biashara to watch the 4pm match. Great fun…last second equaliser.
I had a quick check for Felix…nothing. Back to my room. I had a drink then went for the 2nd match. I only watched it until the half time break as I’d had enough of watching football, then back to my neck of the woods. It was dark by now.
I had rice , beans, veg, and a piece of fish. I didn’t pay for the food, but I bought the ladies another round of drinks. I was a bit tipsy as I returned to my room. No wifi, but my Airtel bundle meant I was able to do some browsing.
Mon 7th Sept
I wanted to wake up and get going…arriving for coffee before 08:00. A nice weather day in prospect. I drank 4 coffees and was included in the chat more than usual.
I was then determined to find somewhere selling ordinary milky tea. Near the bus stand I had a ginger tea and a potato samosa. I then went into the bus stand to check on prices back to Dar ( still 35,000Tsh ), and bus times.
Then on to SeaView Beach for milk coffee and wifi. Just as a matter of interest I asked the price of the cheapest single room…120,000Tsh. 100,000 more than I’m paying !! But presumably everything works and possibly includes breakfast ??
I walked along the beach to my tree trunk and sat on that for 30 minutes. I then headed to my room via Magereza…saying hello to Rachel. I relaxed. I got a pillow case and towel.
I walked around the block to Gymkhana. From there to Magereza. So nice and breezy there with a great view of the bay. So relaxing; Lindi is growing on me more and more.
From there to my room. And as Rehema’s bar wasn’t open yet, and I was feeling hungry. I went a couple of minutes walk away to a corner hoteli and had a chips mayai. The owner was very friendly as he knew Terry very well.
Rehema’s was now open. There was a huge amount of activity in the street…kids playing, cooking, water collection in buckets from the well, drinking, chatting…
Tues 8th Sept
I was up before the alarm. I showered/shaved and was at the dinosaur by 08:00, for my coffees. I didn’t stay too long. I positioned myself in such a way that the dinosaur seemed to be nibbling the top of my head. In the same way that I do with the giraffe at Splendid in Tanga.
I walked back a slightly different route to the lodge. After greeting all the ladies I went down to the beach and along to the tree trunk and on to SeaView. I posted my July blog and enjoyed my coffees.
I walked through town and back to the lodge, having a chat with the ladies opposite Nageme. Back into the centre where I ate a boring rice and beans, but at 2,000…or 60pence…what would you expect !!
I was still on the lookout for a new cap. Gymkhana beckoned for a couple of Kilimanjaros. Then on to Magereza. I met my first Masais selling their usual bracelets/nail clippers/trinkets.
There had been a nice breeze blowing all day, and almost quite ‘cool’ in the morning. Then it was over to Rehema’s. I have got into a bit of a habit of buying regular drinks for Rehema and her friend; they aren’t expensive, but if I was here slightly longer term I would have to cut back.
Still no wifi, and I haven’t seen Ayubu for most of the week. Oh, I bought my Barcelona ticket for Thursday morning to Dar. Cost…35,000Tsh..or £10…pretty cheap. And back to my room to plan my last day in Lindi.
Wed 9th Sept
I set off a bit earlier than usual. I dropped a shirt off for the shoulder to be sewn up. Then on to my coffee. I had 3 coffees then said goodbye. On standing up, I said I had an announcement…I thanked them for their company. I don’t know what I was expecting, but all I got was …Bye’. ‘Have a safe journey’. ‘God willing we’ll see each again’.
I walked to collect my shirt and gave the guy 1,000. From there to a part of the beach I hadn’t been to yet…where the fishing is done. I walked as far as Makuti Beach resort and back to Magereza.
At exactly the same spot and on the same day as 2 years ago, I filmed a little Birthday message for Mary, to send to Renato to pass on to Mary. From Magereza to SeaView to enjoy coffees and work on a FB post. It was on the verge of posting, when there was a powercut.
After 30 minutes the power returned and my posting only took a couple of minutes. In town I found NMB and drew out 600,000Tsh…about £170. I went to the supermarket and bought toothpaste and crisps.
Back to my room. I paid Ayubu my 20,000Tsh for my last day. I asked him about the wifi and he sheepishly said..”not yet”…not that it really mattered. I joined Rehema for a drink at her bar. From there to Magereza; I skipped the other bars as it had reached late afternoon.
I took my time as dinner had been arranged/planned for 7pm. I sipped my beer and chatted with Rachel and watched the tide come up to the bar. And then Felix made an appearance; he had been busy and that’s why he went awol. Anyway, we had a really good chat until we left before 7pm. Oh, I bought a packet of cashews. Dinner was ready on time, and I was served my rice, veg, chicken leg and tiny fish. I thought I’d paid for a thigh, but that was okay.
I ate it with a bit of light coming from the bar….However, it was very tasty. I finished my drink and went to my room to pack for Dar and get to sleep.