Fiji…Nadi
Tues 17th Feb.
I woke up before my alarm. I liked the 10th floor…nice and quiet…apart from the road works. I showered and packed. After 08:30 I went to the café nearer Albert Park for a chai. The weather didn’t seem too bad, although the clouds were increasing.
Back at the room I finished packing and checked out at 09:45. I went for my last chai at Sierra. It was only 10 minutes to the bus terminal. The SkyDrive soon arrived and we left after 11:00 once everyone was on board.
Incredibly, Stuart who was on the same bus to Rotorua, and who I saw at the bus stand in Picton, was also on the bus to the airport.
Easy check-in which left me with nearly 3 hours before the flight. I had a chai and a pint. Immediately we were in the air I had to go for a pee..!! I chose the chicken curry meal, which was okay.
I was pulled to one side with my rucksack at security and asked lots of questions about the contents of my rucksack. The answers I gave were all scribbled down. It’s hard to know what to to say when someone asks what you’re carrying. Clothes, toiletries…. Medication ? Oh yeah, paracetamol tablets. Umbrella ? Oh yeah there’s an umbrella. Shoes ? No, just flip flops. Not sure what prompted the questioning.
I asked how long it would take to get into town and to my hotel, Sailor’s. The answer ranged from 10 minutes… to it’s a longway. I didn’t have a bus travel card and no cash and I didn’t want to pay for a taxi.
Well, the walk took nearly 2 hours altogether…at the end of which I was hot, tired and sweating profusely. I stopped for one Fiji Gold beer along the way.
I checked into room no. 5 at Sailor’s. Small room but it looked comfortable. I had a shower then went next door to Matasawa resort for a jug of beer. As I was tired I drank it slowly before going to my room around 9pm.
Wed 18th Feb
I slept well. I paid my 65Fjd..or 20Gbp for another night. I went Matasawa for a fried eggs on toast and latte breakfast. Tasty. When I came out a taxi driver called out. I quickly came to the decision that Nadi town was too far to walk and it was worth paying the 10Fjd. He had to stop at an ATM so I could draw out some cash.
Tha taxi driver dropped me off at Chicken express where there was a counter/outlet for buying a local bus transport card. The card cost 3Fjd and topped it up with 20Fjd.
I walked to an information kiosk to get some ideas on things to do. The lady treated me initially like a tourist looking to go on island tours…but it was good to listen to different options.
Further down the street I called in at a barber to check his price for a no. 2 cut. 10Fjd ..about 3Gbp seemed reasonable, so I said I’d come back the next day. I took a few pics of the Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple.
Back down the high street to look for the bus stand; I found it eventually. I waited half an hour, but the bus dropped me off right outside Sailor’s. I bought some snacks from a stall at the bus stand which lasted me the rest of the day; so, food after breakfast cost me 2Fjd, or about 60pence.
I had a swim in the hotel pool, which was nice. I chatted a bit with Gerda…half Russian, half Lithuanian but living in Germany.
It was hot and I fancied a drink. I walked to the junction and had a couple of drinks at Vasaqa; the staff were friendly and chatty. I had first popped into Olive Tree supermarket at the junction on the opposite corner, where a member of staff chased after me to leave my bag near the entrance. I said ‘ no way ‘ as it had my wallet and passport. He said he would check me on the way out…which was fine. But I still shouted at him saying this had never happened before. I felt a little bit bad for getting so annoyed/angry. He did point to a sign that said something like..no bags allowed.
I popped back to Sailor’s and was about to call into Matasawa for a jug or two, when I saw Gerda. I invited her for a drink and we had a nice evening chatting. We had a lot in common and the conversation flowed very easily.
That was it for the day. I went to my room still feeling quite worn out from the previous day’s exertions.
Thurs 19th Feb
I slept okay, not great. Down in reception I asked to extend my room but was told it was already booked out. But there was room 14 on the second floor available. I agreed on the extra 20Fjd ( in fact she dropped the price from 99 to 85) and went for it at 27Gbp.
As the room was ready, I packed and immediately took my rucksack upstairs. What a great room…double bed, much bigger room, a window!, and balcony with uninterrupted view of countryside and the sea. The only drawback was that I could only have it for one night then had to move back down to room no. 5.
I went next door for breakfast of fried eggs on toast again, but with a sausage this time. I figured out the bus times and was ready for the 20:40; there’s only one per hour so you have to be prepared.
The bus is a good local service and passes along a lot of back roads i.e. non tarmac. It’s about 30 minutes to Nadi. I walked to the High street then found the barber who I’d promised I’d return. I was able to sit down immediately; there was short discussion after I asked for a no. 2 and he suggested a no. 1. We settled on a 1.5 cut…not that it makes much difference!! Cost was 10Fjd or 3Gbp; I was very happy with that.
I walked straight back to the bus stand. I now know the return leaves just past the hour. I think it took longer going back. I went to my room then for a swim in the hotel pool.
I went from there to Vasaqa for a drink; I invited Gerda, but in the end she didn’t take me up on my offer. Rain threatened but there were only a few drops until later at dinner. I went to Matasawa and had their lamb curry for dinner; it was tasty enough but not exciting…maybe could’ve done with some salad.
I chatted a bit with an American lady, then went to my lovely room.
Fri 20th Feb
A great sleep, a great night…I love room 14.
Oh well, I checked out. I went next door for breakfast. I met Brit Kevin and had a good conversation. I had already transferred my rucksack to room no. 5. I went for a not terribly long walk down the beach. I wallowed in very shallow water…ok, the tide was out…but it’s a shallow bay anyway. I lay in the sun before returning to Sailor’s. I had a swim in the pool then went to my room for a shower.
Then I went on a small walkabout to see a bit more of the area. I ended up at Vasaqa for a jug. Kevin joined me after 4pm. I have great banter with the staff at Vasaqa. Well after 5pm I headed back to Sailor’s.
I caught the sunset, which was amazing. I had a jug. Then I went to Matasawa for a chicken curry and a jug.
I went for one more beer in the Sailor’s bar, then to my room.
Sat 21st Feb
Actually, I slept well. After showering and packing I told reception to move my rucksack to no. 14 whenever convenient. I didn’t have time for breakfast next door, instead I caught the 09:40 bus to Nadi. I found a restaurant to have 2 samosas and a coffee.
I then went to the bus stand to catch a Denarau bus. Fortunately, after a while a lady asked if I was okay. Yes, I said, pointing to the Denarau sign. She pointed out that actually I wanted the yellow bus that was half a dozen parking bays away. That was lucky, and it wasn’t long before I was on my way.
A pretty drive, and as we approached Denarau there were a couple of golf courses and big hotels and smart houses with private boat jetties, and more big hotels under construction. I don’t know what I was expecting, but there were fancy shops, lots of expensive looking restaurants, a harbour with big boats/yachts and many Tours kiosks. One lady tried to persuade me to pay 40Fjd to go to Likuri if I went along to a Ramada presentation…instead of 100sFjd if I travelled alone/made my own way. I didn’t believe any of it.
I only stayed an hour before heading back to Nadi. I had an hour to kill before my 14:00 return bus to Sailor’s. I topped up my bus/travel pass with 20Fjd. I bought some pakora/bajia snacks to have instead of a proper dinner meal.
The bus was on time and it only took 15 minutes to reach Sailor’s. Straight along the main roads, no detouring via the beach. I had a chat with Gerda and went for a swim. I got my room key and went to check my room. All was well and I put my shorts on a chair on the balcony to dry in the hot sun.
I sat alongside my shorts for a while, then showered, then at 4pm went to Vasaqa for a jug of Gold. Before 6pm I went back to Sailor’s for their Kava ceremony. I literally had a front seat; I was right next to the guy preparing the ‘ concoction ‘.
Kava is an important Fijian drink made from pounded roots of the Kava plant. It brings people together for moments of celebration, relaxation, and community bonding.
Fiji’s national, non-alcoholic, yet mildly sedative drink made from the ground root of the kava pepper plant mixed with water. It is a cornerstone of Fijian culture, used in welcoming ceremonies
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Key Aspects of Fijian Kava Culture:
• The Ceremony: Traditionally served in a bilo (half a coconut shell) from a large, carved wooden bowl (tanoa), the ritual involves clapping once, saying “Bula!” (hello/welcome), and drinking it in one gulp.
• Taste and Experience: It has a muddy appearance, earthy taste, and causes a temporary numbing sensation in the mouth.
• Consumption Etiquette: Participants sit cross-legged on the floor. It is considered polite to accept the drink if offered, typically requested as “high tide” (full cup) or “low tide” (half cup).
• Preparation: The roots are traditionally pounded into a fine powder, then mixed with water, often filtered through a cloth.
I asked for a ‘High Tide’…a full cup..as opposed to a half cup. I had 3 of them; not unpleasant but not amazing. Not alcoholic but it made my tongue go slightly numb. A bit of fun anyway.
I then managed to put away 2 jugs of beer as the sun went down; another nice sunset. I was expecting to be charged about 15Fjd each but the total came to 37Fjd…I should’ve checked at the time. Then I went up to my room.
Sun 22nd Feb
It was certainly nice to be back in room 14.
A lazy day. After breakfast I went to the right along the beach. I didn’t get very far, as after the last hotel there was a wide/deep, ditch/drain with running water. It’s possible to pass by it, but only at low tide.
I went back the other way, but not too far, and spent a short time in the sun. At the Ramada hotel I asked about the best way to Likuri Island ; the guy was very helpful but I’m still not 100% sure of how to go about it.
After time in my room, including washing a shirt and allowing it to dry, after 3pm I went walkabout to the part of Nadi (Martintar) on the main road. That took 35 minutes in the really hot sun.
Tourist information was closed, as was the Indian restaurant. I stopped for one beer at Masala Twist…where I stopped off when walking from the airport. I returned to Wailoaloa (the area of the hotels) and checked in at Vasaqa before 16:30.
From there it was to Matasawa for a chicken curry. The flavour was okay but not much meat on the bones. I did mention it… Then over to Sailor’s…no sunset but there was a fire show on the beach a couple of hotels away which was quite fun.
I mentioned politely to the bar staff about being overcharged on the previous evening, and they very kindly gave me a free jug. Then up to my room.
Mon 23rd Feb.
I took my time getting going. At Matasawa I thought I ordered my usual fried egg on toast but it was more like omelettes on toast…actually much nicer.
I spent a short time on the beach then hung out in my room for a bit; I just wanted to relax. By 13:30 I was walking to the outskirts of Nadi (Martintar) just nearby. I reached just over half way when I got a lift from a taxi driver, for which I was very grateful.
I went directly to the tourist information office and had a long chat and clarified what my plans were and how to achieve them. I then went over to Masala Twist for a beer and ended up gaving a long chat with barman Jason. They always seem to have a problem with their beer taps.
A few doors away was an Indian restaurant where I enjoyed a very nice chicken curry. More meat on this one, but still lots of bones…oh well. It started to rain as I got close to Sailor’s, but at least I had my umbrella with me.
As Vasaqa was closed for the day, I spent the late afternoon and evening at Sailor’s. I caught up on some English Prem league matches being shown on the TV. I had 2 jugs; there was a bit of a sunset; then I went up to my room. I sat out on my balcony until it got too dark.
Tues 24th Feb
I was a bit slow getting going, so I skipped breakfast…just having a quick coffee at Matasawa…then catching the 09:40 bus into Nadi. At the Nadi bus stand I checked out bus times and fare to the Natadola junction.
I had 2 hours in which to draw out some cash and top up my bus pass with 20Fjd. But then I had to go into a bank to break down a 100Fjd note into smaller denominations. I stopped in a restaurant for 2 samosas and a tea. The waitress annoyed me by trying to take away my cup before I’d even finished.
By sheer chance I bumped into Louisa (from Vasaqa), near the bus stand and caught the 12:00 bus back with her. I went back to my room and stayed there for the next few hours because it began to rain…and quite heavily too.
I went to Vasaqa before 5pm and emailed Kevin that’s where I’d be initially. He was delayed and couldn’t make it. Over to Matasawa for a delicious chicken and rice dinner. I ordered a half portion, but what I got was huge. I don’t know if they made a mistake, but I paid the half portion price of 5Fjd…1.50Gbp.
There was a little bit of a sunset from Sailor’s…then up to my room.
Wed 25th Feb
Dad’s birthday. I got going quite early because I was meeting Kevin at Matasawa around 08:30. I wore my ” Dad shirt “…of course. We had an egg breakfast each, then went for a slow amble in the immediate area. I got to see some other accommodation that I might check out when I return in a few days time.
We walked to the beach then stopped at Smugglers and sat outside in the sun for well over an hour waiting for the coffee machine to dispense our order. That was fine as we had lots to talk about. I went back to Sailor’s to use the pool and do some preliminary organising of my rucksack .
Then at 15:30 I met up with Kevin at Vasaqa. I was persuaded to drink 2 jugs, but I was having a lot of fun. Kevin’s chicken and rice was too much for him and he offered some to me. The little that I had filled me up.
A great day with Kevin, we enjoyed each other’s company. He caught a taxi to his hotel; he was leaving for Christchurch early the next day. I went to Sailor’s for a final mug of beer, then went up to my room.