Fiji – Nadi/Wailoaloa
Sun 1st Mar.
The edge of Cyclone Urmil must’ve hit the island in the night. I woke around 3am to strong winds and heavy rain. I took a small video. The window slats weren’t closed tightly enough, so a small amount of rain got into the room; just enough to reach the edge of the bed and create a little puddle by the door.
I washed and packed and headed for the 08:00 breakfast. There were fallen branches and debris everywhere; the staff had a job on their hands clearing up… The shelter over the drum/gong had collapsed, and breakfast was in a more confined area as protection from the wind.
I was certainly glad to be leaving that day. I chatted with Patrick over breakfast then went to check that the 09:00 was still due to run.
There was a sudden huge downpour and strong gusts of wind, and I took shelter in reception. It was still raining but the ferry left at 09:30. We sat on life jackets so as not to get too wet, but still got rained on from the sides of the boat. At least it was only a 15 minute ride.
We waited at the dock for a few minutes before 6 of us crammed into a taxi to take us to Maro junction…only about 10 minutes. I paid 10Fjd; I don’t know if that covered everybody. Within a few minutes we were aboard the Pacific bus at 10:00am.
Nadi was only 45 minutes away. Once again I was patiently waiting for the bus, only to be told they don’t run on Sundays !! So, it had to be a taxi. I refused the request for 15, and I gave him 10Fjd for the ride to Sailor’s. It would’ve been 1.50 on my bus pass..!!!
It was still drizzling. I checked the accommodation at Bluewater lodge and Beach resort, but their prices were in the region of 150Fjd…I knew that was too much. I hung out at Matasawa and drank a latte. I asked about their room prices, but the lowest was 100, and the lady was very honest and said that as there wasn’t a generator, a power cut would make things very uncomfortable.
I went next door to Sailor’s where room no. 7 was going to be available by 3pm. As for cost the receptionist said 99, but I said I paid 85 last time. Ok, she said…85Fjd…plus tax it came to 88. So, perhaps at 30Gbp a bit on the expensive side but pretty good for a lovely room. Big.. a double bed and a single, en suite and with a/c.
I passed the time in the hotel café before moving in at 3pm. I walked over to Vasaqa but found their gate to be locked. I asked someone why that might be. Sunday..? Not stopped them opening on a Sunday before. I came to the conclusion that heavy rain and flooding meant staff were unable to get to work.
I went to Matasawa. No jugs available as they were all out of draught beer. I settled on a bucket of 330ml cans of local beer. Total cost he said was 27.50, but I could have them for 24Fjd. Okay, I agreed. When he came over with the bucket of 5 beers and we were discussing food/dinner, he dropped the price to 22Fjd.
I had dinner of chicken curry…boneless thank goodness. Very tasty. I went next door to Sailor’s and had a mug of beer then went to my room.
Mon 2nd March
I awoke to a cloudy morning with the hope of sunshine to come. After 09:00 I was next door having 2 eggs on toast and a coffee. The bus was earlier than usual and at 09:30 we were headed to town.
I had my zebra shirt with me to get sewn up. The only tailor I knew of hadn’t come to work because of flooding; walking around town later, I couldn’t find another tailor. I went to the Hindu temple but wasn’t prepared to pay the 5Fjd entrance as one couldn’t take photos inside.
I sat nearby with a large tea. Then generally passed the time wandering around looking at shops. The market was interesting. I chatted with the tourism lady. The bus was already there, 15 minutes before departure, so I climbed aboard. I chatted with a Canadian lady who had been to Suva with her paddle board.
I went nearby to Smugglers and had a flat white coffee. Over to Vasaqa, but once again they were closed, it must be weather related. I tried a couple of other places but either they didn’t do ‘jugs’ or they were too expensive.
I ended up back at Matasawa. There was no draught available, but there were Gold bottles in the fridge. So I got a bucket of 5 bottles for 20Fjd…less than 7Gbp. In the meantime it started pouring very heavily with rain.
The road got flooded and overflowed. The rainwater poured down the slight slope and quickly started to fill the reception area. I dropped my beer bottle as I moved to the dining area. Then the dining area filled with water. When told that the kitchen was still functioning, I ordered a chicken and fried rice. I was eating my delicious dinner with water just above my ankles..!!!
An interesting day, which ended next door at Sailor’s. I drank a jug then went up to my room. I sent Lucy in Taveta 1,500Ksh to pay her room rent because apparently she had been locked out for non payment. Actually, the same day I sent Mercy 3,000Ksh to cover some hospital bills caused by her ending up in hospital with a bad tummy bug. I snacked on some chevda type stuff before going to sleep.
Tues 3rd Mar
A rainy start to the day. Matasawa had cleared the flood waters and breakfast was available as usual. I had the sausage this time. I ironed my blue shirt. I checked how tidy the beach was; a lot of hard work had been put into clearing the cyclone mess. I spoke with Phil.
I caught the1:30pm bus just as far as the junction and walked into Martintar. No sign of a tailor. I looked for a hotel with a view to Mon/Tues staying a bit closer to the airport and on the main road.
I think I’ve settled on Hotel Martintar; I didn’t see the room but the price dropped from 85 to 80…which was fine. I might be too early for buses, but taxis would be close and just a straight drive to the airport.
My original idea was to stay the 2 nights in Nadi town, but I think this is a better option. Nearby was Masala Twist where I had a pint of Gold. Then I walked back to Wailoaloa and stopped at Vasaqa to greet everyone and have a jug….
Then, as I felt hungry, I went to Matasawa and decided on a chicken and fried rice. It was okay, just not hot (temperature) enough.
Then it was over to Sailor’s for a nightcap, and up to my room. The weather seems calmer, but reading about how much of Fiji has been flooded. Today was cloudy with some rain, and in fact I took my black rain jacket with me.
Wed 4th Mar
I awoke with a small mission…to get my zebra shirt to the tailor. I had breakfast next door and caught the 09:40 to town. I didn’t realise, but the tailor shares the same room space as my barber !! She came after a few minutes and I agreed to come back the next day to collect the finished article.
I checked my balance on my bus pass. At the bus stand I climbed aboard Sunbeam to say goodbye to the 2 Canadian ladies I was talking with on our way in from Wailoaloa; they were headed towards Sigatoka.
I caught the 11:10 bus. I spent more time in my room than I normally do. I drank 2 coffees. At about 3pm I walked down the beach passed the big drain. What I thought were apartments, was in fact one huge hotel…Crowne Plaza. I wouldn’t pay lots of money to stay there; the beach is very average.
I had a shower to wash off the sun tan lotion then went over to Vasaqa. I asked Mary to find out if it really was illegal to carry fruits from one of the islands to the mainland. The Canadians had their passports photographed and asked to pay a 2,000Fjd …reduced to 1,000Fjd…but still over 300Gbp. They didn’t pay at that point and were given a week to do so. I wonder what the outcome will be ??
I had chicken and fried rice dinner at Matasawa. Then over to Sailor’s for a jug. I was tired and had an early night.
Thurs 5th Mar
I woke up a bit earlier than planned. I decided to skip breakfast and go for the 08:40…it was 15 minutes late. The plan was to collect my zebra shirt and get the bus to Lautoka. The tailor hadn’t fixed it so I went a few doors away for a tea. The young girl was annoying by asking for 2.50 when the board says 2.00 and on the 3 previous occasions I’ve paid 2.00…Hmmm.
Back to collect my shirt and pay the 5Fjd. Then to the bus stand where I paid my 3.45..or just over 1.00Gbp to Lautoka. It was a nice journey, but being a local bus (picking/dropping passengers, it took nearly an hour and a half to do 30 odd kilometres.
The bus stand is in the middle of the city, so immediately one is wandering the shops and markets. I changed a 100Fjd into 5x20s. I walked to a park and down to the waterfront. There was no beach, but just nice to be near water; I lay on a bench for a short while.
I walked back and found a restaurant to have a fish curry with rice and dal; a nice change for me to have lunch, and it was tasty. I was only in Lautoka for about an hour and a half before heading back on the Nadi bus. I preferred Lautoka ( parks, ocean ) to Nadi.
The return was also an hour and a half and I was only going as far as Martintar. I called in on Hotel Martintar to ask if they took card payments or only cash. A bit confusing, but I think I have to be prepared to pay cash.
From there to Masala Twist for one mug. Then I walked as far as the junction and waited for the bus to Sailor’s. I was tired so prepared to wait about 20 minutes. I was hot so I showered before going to Vasaqa. From there to Matasawa and a nice chicken curry. They were all out of Gold so I had a can of gin & tonic; it made a nice change.
Then to Sailor’s for a mug. That was enough for the day. Then up to my room where I munched on a chevda type packet of munchies !!
Fri 6th Mar
The laziest day so far.
Breakfast at Matasawa. I arranged for my room to be cleaned; it was ready about midday.
I swam in the pool and lay in the sun.
I walked both directions of the beach. It’s not a great beach…murky water, dark sand, not many palm trees.The only good thing is if there’s a sunset, then it’s quite beautiful.
Shower. Vasaqa for 5 bottles of Fiji *Bitter* beer…they were out of draught. At Matasawa I had the chicken fried rice with a can of rum and coke…they were out of draught.
At Sailor’s I watched / listened to the local duo whilst sipping my jug. Some confusion over the payment whereby they wanted to charge me 22Fjd but it should’ve been 16Fjd. It wasn’t resolved and I walked away saying I’d sort it out the next day.
I went to my room.
Sat 7th Mar
I woke up a bit too early. By 09:00 I was at Matasawa for egg on toast breakfast. I was on the 09:40 bus; I helped a young lady with her 30kgs suitcase. I got off at the Martintar junction and paid for the lady’s ticket to Nadi.
I walked into Martintar and caught the bus to Sabeto…only 20 minutes. It was a 25 minute walk to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. It was quite a tourist attraction with lots of taxis, coaches and minibuses passing me along the way.
Most people were middle aged +++ There must’ve been at least 100 tourists there. I just didn’t get good vibes about the place…too managed… and decided against paying the 30Fjd..or 10Gbp to get in. I’d seen beautiful flowers and bushes and interesting trees on my way up the drive. I definitely wasn’t interested in the mud pool at 40Fjd. I took the opportunity to relax before walking back to the junction.
I had my shirt hanging off my shoulders to enable it to dry a bit. One town bus didn’t stop for me; maybe I was a bit slow putting my arm out. By now it was 12:00. I only had to wait 10 minutes for another bus. At one stop, still in Sabeto, I noticed a sign saying ‘ Greek Orthodox Saint Paraskevi Church’…well, that certainly took me by surprise.
I alighted in Martintar and walked to Wailoaloa. I reached Sailor’s at 13:00, to be met by the receptionist apologising for the inconvenience and offering me a free lunch. I had no idea what she was going on about. But apparently, after I left at 9am, there was a fire in a store room that caused some damage, and although it was on my floor there was no damage to my room…just a burning smell. All the guests were being treated the same, so I got an unexpected lunch.
I had a quick swim and shower and went for my free lunch. It meant I didn’t need a dinner in the evening. Back in my room I opened all the windows to get a through draught to clear any lingering smell.
By 4pm I was at Vasaqa with my lovely waitresses/barmaids. At 6ish I was at Sailor’s to partake in the Kava ceremony; I just had one High tide. Then I got a jug and watched the sunset while listening to the live band. They played some really good music, in particular reggae.
I’d sent Tor a Birthday message earlier in the day. I sent another with a Bob Marley music clip. Then just as a final Birthday celebration I treated myself to a tasty cocktail…mainly rum based…called Shark’s Bite.
Sun 8th Mar
I treated myself to a sausage with my scrambled egg on toast…!! No option but to stay in Wailoaloa for the day as there were no buses on a Sunday.
I walked down the beach but couldn’t go as far as I wanted as the tide was in. I managed a crossing when the tide started going out. On the way back I tried to be clever and lob my bag from one bank to the other. Unfortunately it rolled back into the water.
I found a big log and emptied the bag contents to start the drying process…things weren’t too wet as the bag wasn’t in the water too long. I returned to Sailor’s and laid my stuff out by the pool. In the meantime I had a swim as well.
It was very hot and I put a lot of sunscreen on. I showered and just for a change, as it was my last day, I went for one drink at the end bar, the Beach Club Wailoaloa. From there to Vasaqa. After 2 small bottles it started to rain very heavily. I had to have a 3rd, then put a kikoi over me and went to Matasawa. I had chicken fried rice.
Next, I went to Sailor’s where I had a different rum related cocktail…and then to my room to sleep.
Mon 9th Mar
I awoke with plenty of time to pack my things. I went next door for my breakfast. I got the bus to the junction and walked into Martintar to the hotel. It doesn’t take much of a walk with a rucksack in the heat before you’re dripping in sweat.
There was a room..208..available, but considering I was paying 80Fjd per day…almost as much as Sailor’s…the quality was far inferior. And no wifi. The a/c wasn’t adjustable but it was fine. I bought a large bottle of water from the supermarket.
On the other side of the main road I hopped on the Lautoka bus into Nadi; a direct route…no residential areas to pass through. I didn’t have a particular plan, other than to have my Huawei phone looked at for water damage. But I couldn’t be bothered in the end, and went back to the bus stand and got on the Wailoaloa bus.
At Sailor’s I dropped off my extra bus pass for Chloe to use if she wanted. Then I sat on a lounger in the hot sun for 30 minutes. Vasaqa was closed on a Monday, but I went for a 3pm Chilli curry at Matasawa.
I then waited half an hour for the bus, but my suspicion was confirmed that it had left much earlier than usual.
Annoyingly I had to walk back to Martintar…and I was tired. It was a 40 minute walk. I had a swim in the hotel pool; an enclosed area so not much fun. After a shower and hanging my clothes on the balcony railings, I put my jeans on and went looking for a bar.
I didn’t go to Masala Twist again as they had a lot of repair work going on. But 2 doors away was Ed’s Bar. Actually, much nicer with a bit of an English pub feel about it and it had a/c.
I was getting through my jug slowly, when an Aussie who’d lived in Fiji for 16 years, joined me. He was already half drunk and I was getting that way as we shared another jug, but we had a fun chat. Then we were joined by a Trans friend of his, which was a bit of an eye opener for me. I just sat and listened…!!!
Then back to my room; the hotel was only a couple of minutes walk away. It was nice to have a change of scene.
Tues 10th Mar
I didn’t have a great sleep…but oh well. After 9pm I caught the bus into Nadi. My mission was twofold…find a different tailor to look at the rips on my kikoi, and find a phone shop that would look at my Huawei phone. No amount of charging would make the screen come on.
I found a tailor who didn’t seem unreasonable, but I’d run my finances down to the bare minimum, that I couldn’t afford it. As for the phone, no amount of charging would make it turn on. By the third shop it was clear that I needed a new screen. The new part would have to come from Suva and I didn’t have that extra day to get it fixed. I would have to have it seen to in Auckland.
I went for the 11am bus to Wailoaloa. In the meantime, due to too many accidental login attempts, I wouldn’t be able to use my phone for 1hr and 51mins..!!..Grrr..!!!
I had a nice chat with a lady at the end bar..the Beach bar. At Smugglers I had a flat white coffee whilst waiting for my phone to come back on stream.
One moment it was scorching, then 30 minutes later there was a very heavy downpour. It didn’t last too long and in the meantime I could use my phone to do a FB post.
I went across to Sailor’s and completed my NZ Traveller Declaration. I said goodbye to a few of the staff. Then at about 2pm I went to Matasawa for a chilli chicken…spicy and tasty. I said goodbye to the staff there as well. Over to Vasaqa I went.
I kept an eye out for the bus because I didn’t want to be too late, and I didn’t fancy walking back to Martintar again. I thought I saw it and nipped down to the roadside. I said a rushed goodbye to all the young ladies.
I was wrong, but a few minutes later a taxi stopped and I accepted the offer of a lift as long as it was free..!! I found out that early morning and mid afternoon the bus schedule goes out the window due to heavy traffic in Nadi.
My lift took me all the way into Martintar. I went straight to my hotel. I chatted with the staff outside then went to my room. I felt surprisingly tired. I relaxed, showered and before 5pm I was at Ed’s bar.
So that was my final day on Fiji. I drank my jug very slowly. Debs (bar staff) gave me access to her wifi which helped pass the time. Then to my room.