Langkawi
Tues 14th Apr
The bed was comfortable so I slept well. The a/c was too cold and I slept with my shirt on. I woke up around 05:30. After checking out I ordered a Grab which arrived very quickly.
We left at 06:20 and it took about 15 minutes to cover the 13kms to the ferry terminal. I waited in the lounge until boarding, only to be told I should’ve bought my ticket first. I muttered quite loudly my disgust; but really I should’ve checked… I paid my 45RM…8.50Gbp …and boarded.
I shuffled over so my rucksack was on the window sill and I could lean on it. Actually I had the whole row of 4 seats to myself, so it was a very comfortable hour and a half crossing. Not a rough sea either.
We landed at the Kuah jetty at 09:30. The whole building with shops looked a lot smarter than I remember it, but I had only passed through once, and that was 6 months ago. Of course, I flew out last time on my way to Kuching.
I walked the couple of kms into town, taking lots of pics along the way. The huge Eagle statue, the Langkawi sign, the ‘silver’ world map, the MAHA tower… I walked passed the Baron hotel where I stayed at the end of Sept, and to the restaurant area where I had a teh and a roti canai.
I was sweating profusely at that point. I crossed at a bridge over the stream and went to an ATM and drew out 800RM…150Gbp; I remembered that Rainbow only took cash payments. I ordered a Grab from outside the bank; it took about 4 attempts for it to work…I didn’t understand what was happening.
The distance to Pantai Cenang is about 20kms and takes 20 minutes; a very pretty drive. It only cost 22RM. I got dropped off on the main road near Kalut bar. I went to greet my morning tea people; I had one teh. As I began walking towards Rainbow, Addy came by on his scooter, and was surprised to see me…at least he knew to expect me.
Ida was in reception and she seemed pleased to see me. I caught up on a little gossip in relation to some people during my month at Rainbow. I got a reduced room rate of 48RM…which is only 9Gbp per day. This time I was given room no.7, (I had no. 8 last time).
I put my shorts and flip flops on, and walked to the other side of town to get what was my daily kopi. Oh no, the place was deserted and had been permanently closed down. Well, that threw me !! I had to use my umbrella for 15 minutes !!
I walked up the road from Rainbow, hoping to get some savoury snacks for ‘dinner’, but there weren’t any to be had, and I settled for 2RM worth of deep fried bananas.
I went down to the beach and walked along to Ah Chong for a couple of small cans of Tiger, before going on to Kalut whose happy hour didn’t start until 5pm. There were no Changs, so I had a bucket of Tigers.
Sunset was approaching and they were setting up for the fire show. It rained heavily for a short while so I didn’t hang around. I popped into the bar at Rainbow for a nightcap.
Then to my room. A very successful travel day.
Wed 15th Apr
I slept very well. Overall I prefer a room fan to a/c. I thought the shower temperature would be chillier, but it was comfortably fresh.
I put on my ‘Life is Good’ t-shirt and went down the road for my 2 tehs. It was a cloudy day and rain threatened. I walked up the main street, partly to see if I bumped into Alex. It was a morning of wandering aimlessly…oh, I had a mission of finding a photography shop to ask why I was get “wavy/distorted pics on my phone.
I relaxed outside my room; the sun made a brief appearance. After13:00 I went up the road to the restaurant for lunch. They seem to have stopped making snacky foods, but I saw the word ‘Laksa’ on the food menu, and that was it. I went for the Special (incl egg and salad, and noodles of course)…and it was only 7.50RM or 1.45Gbp.
Back to my room, followed by a stroll towards the RedSky near the other beach. I was a bit early for happy hour, so I lay on the beach for half an hour. After 4pm I went the 5 minutes to RedSky where I was greeted very warmly.
I had 2 beers at 4RM each; then I headed back to the other end of town. Along the way I saw a photography shop; the guy assured me the distortion was caused by the heat. That put my mind at ease, but its only just started happening after all these years of travelling.
I got my Kalut bucket and enjoyed it with the sunset; the sunset wasn’t as good as it was in October. I left before the fireshow took place…if there was to be one. Earlier I’d bought a packet of crisps to snack on in my room with a tot of mango vodka.
Thurs 16th Apr
The sunrise is later than I thought…around 07:30…that’s probably why I’m getting up so late. I was down the road for my tehs around 10:00. There was some sunshine so I went to the beach for a short while.
That was followed by a walk up the main street, and then back to my room. At around 1pm I went up the road for lunch but found the place closed. Something to do with it being Thursday ??
I carried on to a place I used quite a lot last time, and in fact the lady remembered me. Rice, a fried egg, and a veggie dish and it only cost 4RM ( 75pence). I crossed the road and walked through the rice cultivation museum place, to get back to Rainbow. I had a chat with Tonni in no. 8 who is a Swede.
I’m spending more time than usual around my room. All of a sudden it was gone 15:30 and I headed for RedSky. I was so relaxed there, that I decided to skip Kalut. I ended up having 4 beers at a surprisingly low happy hour cost of just over 15RM. I thought they’d undercharged me at just under 4RM for each glass. Maybe it was right; I’ll just have to test it again.
I left after 6pm. I bought a tube of pringles costing 3.50RM. So my total food purchase was 7.50RM..or about 1.50Gbp !! I went onto the beach as the fireshow guts were warming up. I hadn’t been at that end before, I’m always at the Kalut end. The beach was surprisingly crowded and it seemed to have a more organised feel about it. I preferred the Kalut fire show..
I stopped at Ah Chong for a small can of Tiger as the sun went down. I was tired at that point and went straight to my room where I had a little vodka and pringles and did a FB post. I also gave some thought to Miranda’s suggestion of going to Ko Muk; I was going off the idea of going to Koh Lipe.
Fri 17th Apr
Because of some daylight coming through a chink in the curtains, I realised that sunrise isn’t until about 07:30. So that’s why I’ve been getting up so late. !!
I went for my tehs, but the place was closed. After a brief visit to my room, I walked down to the beach and passed the ‘posh/smart’ hotels in the direction of the Smiling Buffalo café and the roti canai restaurant. The roti place was closed. I went to Buffalo and ordered a cafe latte; a bit expensive at 13RM, but a nice location to sit and enjoy a coffee.
I took a photo of the VW beetle with smiling buffalo written on the side, and carried on with the expectation of an early lunch. It was where I had my laksa the previous day, but it was only midday and they were just setting up. I wasn’t having much luck finding food.
I checked out the eco (2.80RM) shop nearby then headed to my room. I put the t-shirt that I’d washed in the morning, out to dry in the sun. Then at 13:30 I returned to the restaurant and ordered a Mee and a teh tariq. A very tasty lunch.
Back to my room. Then at 15:30 I left for RedSky. I spoke briefly with Ahmed who is Sudanese. At RedSky I had 4 beers again and the cost was indeed just over 15RM. I walked towards the beach; the area around the central Square was packed with people and street stalls. I bought a sausage on a skewer for 1RM.
The beach was very crowded again. I suppose I just never made it to that end, and when hanging out with Kyle we used to pass by on his scooter on the way to Kalut. I decided to skip Kalut again…it was about 18:30… and had a small Tiger at Ah Chong. Nice atmosphere there.
I had a bit of a craving for something for my room, and I picked up a packet of bombay mix to accompany the pringles and vodka. A nice walkabout day.
Sat 18th Apr
A comfortable night’s sleep. I knew the teh place would be open and I could enjoy 2 tehs. I decided to have my first swim, so it was down to the beach. Most enjoyable; a lovely temperature. I was able to lie in the sun for a short while before the clouds came across.
I went for a short walk along the beach before going back to Rainbow. I spoke with Kevin …English guy…for a while; he was part of the group in October. He comes to Langkawi twice a year.
It had reached early afternoon and I walked through the rice ‘museum’ to the restaurant for my 4RM lunch. Back to Rainbow. I decided to try Cinnamons for a drink, as RedSky was closed. Cinnamons didn’t have a happy hour and didn’t open until 5pm. I said I’d go back the next day, but they are closed the second Sunday in every month. Oh well…
I went across to Ah Chong for a couple of cans; it’s a slighty more pleasant place to sit than Kalut. Having said that, I then went to Kalut !!
It was still happy hour and, just for a change, I had the 3 for the price of 2 cocktails. They have a huge selection, but I chose the Hurricane…a rum based cocktail. Total cost was 68RM…about 13Gbp …so, just over 4Gbp each. Not too bad.
I got a disturbing message from Bertie regarding Sienna’s health. At first I thought he was going to give me the ultimate bad news…Not That…But it seems she’s become delusional, behaving crazily. Her mental health has definitely been affected by the cancer in her brain. All very upsetting; she has been a really good friend.
I didn’t stay long; at dusk I returned to my room.
Sun 19th Apr
The usual start to the day. Except the teh, and in particular probably the milk, upset my stomach a little. It was turning into a very hot day. The news about Sienna was weighing very heavily on me; I was surprised by how much it affected me.
I walked up the main street. I called into Zus Coffee ; I’d never been in any cafés in that chain. I was hoping for a coffee offer to include a curry puff; they were sold out of puffs but I enjoyed their coffee latte.
I lay on the beach for a short while then went passed the rice cultivation museum to the restaurant at the traffic lights. I had a basic rice and 2 veg, after a minor argument with the waiter over what was considered a 2RM or 3RM spoonful !! Not an enjoyable meal as it wasn’t hot.
Back to Rainbow, avoiding a huge bull in the road through the rice fields. After a shower I headed to RedSky, arriving just after 4pm. I had my 4 beers, then on the way back I got a satay coated chicken on a skewer for 3RM. The place was in town, but about a dozen different pavement outlets that don’t open until about 6pm. So that was a first. I also bought a sausage on a stick from a stall in the central Square.
The Cliff beckoned. I’d never been before because I assumed it was quite expensive. Anyway, as the name suggests, it is at the end of the beach and looking down and along the whole stretch. The new highrise is just behind, so it doesn’t spoil the view. And the bonus was the fact that I was there at sunset. People were swimming, taking pics, para sailing, jet skiing…all great fun.
That was it. I was tired. I went back to Rainbow. But I did have a really good chat with Tonni on our verandahs.
Mon 20th Apr
Another good sleep, although some slight stress regarding plans for Koh Lipe ( 2 or 3 days ?) and when/where from to catch a ferry to Kuala Perlis. Then at Perlis is it to be a bus or train to Butterworth ?? Hmmm..travel planning.
I went briefly to my room after talking to Ahmed. Decided…a swim day. I lay down on the beach in front of Pelangi Resort. I had my swim, and after a while on my stomach, realised the tide was coming in quite fast. So I moved…!!
After midday I walked further along the beach and passed the river where all the boats are moored. I reached the traffic light junction and looked in at the supermarket, which was much bigger than expected. They sold little 200g packets of washing powder which are perfect for travelling; am at the end of my Tz powder !!
They also had sun tan lotion but I need to check if they contain an SP factor.
I walked passed the restaurant on the corner to my preferred restaurant at the top of my road and ordered a Laksa, which at least is hot. I also had an iced coffee…first time…and really enjoyed it. Only 3RM…cheaper than expected. A customer left his waist bag/pouch on a table…just before he drove off in his car I alerted the waiter to knock on his window and point it out. The driver did thank me.
Back to my room to wash the sea salt off. Then I walked slowly in the direction of RedSky. I enjoy the walk as there’s always the variety of shops/restaurants/people to look at. I popped into 3 duty free shops to make vodka price comparisons.
I had my 4 beers at RedSky. They seemed to knock me for 6; a combination of extreme heat the whole day, and the alcohol. I bought a mango vodka and packet of crisps and returned to my room to talk to Phil and chill. I had a chat with new neighbour, Delphine in no. 6.
The end of a very hot day.
Tues 21st Apr
The mornings are surprisingly peaceful…not too many guests. I refilled my water bottle from the filter machine. I went for my teas.
Back at Rainbow I had a long discussion with Ida and Addy regarding going to Koh Lipe. I started going through the process online, but then Addy said they would do the booking for me and it would include drop off and pickup. It might prove tricky getting back from the Telaga Harbour terminal, so I accepted.
I started having second thoughts when thinking about completing a TDAC for going, and an MDAC to return. Also, the possibility of needing to show a minimum of 10,000 Thai Baht on arrival. Then I thought….oh, just do it.
I walked up the high street and treated myself to an iced coffee at 10RM. Am starting to get quite a liking for the iced drinks. I drew out more money so that I could pay for the Koh Lipe trip. I then walked back to Rainbow via the beach; I lay in the sun for half an hour.
Then I went up the road for an early dinner…a soupy dish with vermicelli and chicken and beef. 8RM. And then it was time to head to RedSky; I followed the bypass for a chunk of the distance….just for a change.
I had my 4 beers and slowly returned to my room. I was tired and looked forward to just lying on my bed; I was tired.
Wed 22nd Apr
I took my near empty soap dispenser to reception for a refill; they need to buy more, but I do have a little left. I greeted both Tonni and Kev. Then to Amani for my tehs.
Back at Rainbow I gave Ida the 340RM for my return ferry to Koh Lipe…25th-28th…including drop off and pick up for 65Gbp. On reaching the High street, a corner restaurant was still selling roti canai at about 11:00, so that was breakfast for 3RM..
When talking to Tonni about suntan lotion, he had suggested the Guardian own brand, so I checked it out at the Cenang Mall. It seems okay, and the price is good. Then I went for a Zus coffee. The coffee stays hot for a long time in those cardboard cups with a lid, so I was in there for a while.
A quiet day…I didn’t even get onto the beach. Back in my room I put my blue shirt in the sun to dry quickly. I sat in the sun for about 20 minutes, then showered and went to Amina’s for lunch. It was around 3pm so there wasn’t much food left…certainly no vegs… so I just had rice, a piece of chicken, and salad…for 7RM. The chicken was 5RM; any meat pushes up the cost of a meal.
I walked very slowly to RedSky. I had my 4 pints then walked back to Rainbow. As the Rainbow bar was closed (Wed), I walked the 1 minute to Mola café and had a small can of Tiger. I wanted to remind myself what the place was like as I planned to go there after the Thurs market, and listen to some live music. Mola had been refurbished and was looking really good.
Then to my room for an early night.
Thurs 23rd Apr
The first thing I did was to complete my TDAC…Thailand Digital Arrival Card. It was fairly straightforward, but luckily I spotted that I had put my departure as the same date as my arrival. So, I’m ready for Koh Lipe on Saturday.
I decided to give the Banana Leaf some business in the form of a roti canai. Very tasty, but an argument ensued over the cost. I thought 1RM …according to the board outside, but was told it was 5RM…according to the menu. I huffed and handed over 3RM, and said that was all she was getting !! Then virtually just across the road to Amani for my tehs.
I arranged with Uan that he would mend a little tear that was starting on a shirt pocket. I went back to my room then took the shirt to him. It took him less than 2 mins to sew it up and he didn’t want paying, but I gave him 1RM.
I chilled in my room, before going up the road for some lunch. I suspected the ‘laksa’ place might be closed. I went along the road and had a rice and chicken in a sauce for 6RM. I didn’t want a big meal as there was the market to look forward to in the evening.
I tried a couple of short cuts into town and found the routes blocked…oh well. I was aiming for Liquid Valley happy hour, but due to staff shortages they were opening at 4pm instead of 3pm.
I researched suntan lotions again, and options on new flip-flops as one of mine is getting almost see through on the bottom. I observed a crane carrying buckets of cement to the top of a building in the process of construction !!
At 4pm I was in the very cool Liquid valley having my 3 for the price of 2…so, total cost 22RM. I went from there, passed Rainbow, to the night market. I first had a small skewer with chicken on it. It was terrible. I wonder if it was only half cooked and needed finishing off; that seems to be a general thing with food preparation. I then bought a big wood skewer with lots of chicken, for 10RM, and that was really tasty.
There was so much variety in the market…from foods, clothing…and in a relatively small area. It’s a pity it’s only there once a week..on a Thursday. I went to Mola café/bar on the way to Rainbow. There was a guy ‘high’ on magic mushrooms !!!
I would’ve liked to stay for the live music at 9pm, but I was already feeling tired and it was only 7:30pm. Back to my room. I had a chat with Phil. A good day, keeping fairly busy.
Fri 24th Apr
I slept well. Aminas was closed. I ignored the Banana leaf. I walked to the beach and along to the mini peninsular opposite the Smiling Buffalo, and enjoyed a tasty roti telur (with egg) and teh tariq.
I then checked out a little bit more of the waterway, and am still amazed that despite its narrowness, that boats get up and down. There were 2 ‘cars’ moored alongside the boats this time !!! I have never seen any boats actually moving…oh, apparently they go out at night…fishing boats.
I walked back along the beach, stepped on a jellyfish, and had a swim and a little sunbathe. I carried on; met Kev and had a chat; cut up passed Ah Chong and returned to Rainbow.
I washed my shirt and immediately hung it out in the hot sun. I relaxed and sat in the sun for about 20 minutes. My shirt was dry enough to rewear, but after I’d showered. I walked up the road, but my favourite restaurant was closed for a second day. I picked up some deep fried sweet potato and 2 spring rolls from a roadside stall to eat as I walked back into town.
I headed to Maybank where I exchanged 520RM for 4,000Baht for Koh Lipe the next day. Virtually next door was a shop selling ‘flipper fun’ flip flops for 12RM…or 2.30Gbp. I desperately needed a new pair as I could now see through my left one. I took my time heading to RedSky…actually my timing was good as it was only about 20 minutes to happy hour.
I warned the guys that it was probably my last time. 3 days in Koh Lipe, then my last 2 days in Pantai Cenang to do other things. I left RedSky after 18:00…bought a stall sausage, then went upstairs to Liquid Valley where it’s nice to escape the heat.
I saw a bit of the sunset then headed back to Rainbow. I stopped to buy a packet of spicy nibbles, then stopped off in the Rainbow bar for a Tiger. I had a small amount of vodka to finish off, and then set my alarm for 07:30.