Tanga
Sun 13th Sept
I was actually woken by the alarm at 03:45. By 04:30 I was at the Tahmeed office. And Alkanjello was right…the system has changed. At 05:00 we had to get into a dala dala and go the 24kms out of town to the Magufuli bus stand, which took 45 minutes. Our bus had been at Lumumba st. the whole time and arrived at Magufuli at the same time as us.
We had to walk 5 minutes to the bus to transfer ( if I hadn’t been following fellow passengers I would’ve got lost ), and we left after 06:00. The journey itself was comfortable, and the seats are huge. There was one stop where I bought 2 meat samosas. We passed a burnt out wreck of a bus; there didn’t appear to be any casualties thank goodness.
We stopped at the bus stand on the edge of Tanga town, which meant I could get a 2,000Tsh boda to Ocean Breeze. I had a mild panic when I saw the ground level surrounded by corrugated iron sheets. All was well, in that the hotel was still operating, but part of the ground floor had been sold to a Bank and was being renovated.
The receptionist was pleased to see me. I got a room on the first floor with a balcony and A/C. The hot water heater for the whole hotel was broken, but I managed to borrow a kettle….
I forgot that the shower water isn’t freezing here, but I boiled the kettle and had a warm wash from a big bucket and using a jug. I washed my socks.
I set off to the cemetary, all the time looking for changes. A new restaurant on the corner of the Sachak House building. The chinese burger restaurant which was painted a bright pink/red , looks closed. A big 10 storey block of flats near the big junction with traffic lights is near completion. On looking over the bridge at the start of Hospital Rd, I noticed the tracks looked tidy, bushes cut back, weeded…which I thought was strange. Then 2 minutes later a train engine passed by pushing a couple of wagons with planks of wood. It was obviously headed to the port. That’s new.
I walked on to Bombo cemetery. Gpa’s grave was totally overun by grass again. But this time also twigs and little branches from general tidying. Also evidence that cows had been wandering around…!! I spent 15 minutes removing the “debris ” and pulling up clumps of grass. That was enough for me.
I went the ‘back’ route to Splendid View. I had a half view of someone in the back garden who I thought was Adolf. He turned out to be Adolf’s nephew Leon, the son of Edward. And the son of Freddie … who died very young…was also there. We got chatting and they were surprised how much I knew about the Leopold family.
I had 2 Pilsners in the Splendid bar and chatted with Amina.. I went from there to the Tanga Institute and ordered a chicken curry. The place was crowded..well, there was a Simba match being played.
Actually, money had been spent on the whole place. 2 TV screens. The bar fully stocked. And a couple of covered seating areas built in the garden, which over the last few years was totally bare. I’m glad I ordered my curry when I arrived at 16:15, because it wasn’t served for another hour and a half. !!! But it was absolutely delicious.
I watched the football too, and just enjoyed my surroundings. But I wanted to watch the Man U vs Man C match at 18:30. Nyumbani Htl was showing it in their back bar/garden area. What a transformation to Nyumbani; requiring a huge investment. Plus another first floor verandah/bar area. I watched the match over one beer, then went back to my room.
The 3 channels on the TV are hopeless. I decided to ‘experiment’ by using the AC overnight. A busy day, a good day.
Mon 14th Sept
A little bit of morning noise as I was on the same floor as the new restaurant/bar area. I refreshed and went for breakfast. The casava and tea and bread were there, but I had to wait 20 minutes for my boiled egg.
I washed a long sleeve shirt and hung it over a chair on my balcony. I walked to Mkonge htl and ordered my coffee after taking pics of the view across to the Yacht club. I spoke with Caroline who although born in Dar, had studied and spent many years in RSA, and now living in Morogoro.
I met up with Hillal who I was friendly with a few years ago. William is equally nice. On asking for the bill I was told it was 8,000, but I said last time it was 4,000. I gave William 5,000Tsh and asked that he do something to make the extra 3,000 disappear !!!
I headed back into town. I bought a bottle of water outside the hospital. I blagged my way into the hospital grounds and took a couple of photos of the original Bombo hospital where Alan and Mike were born. I guess it was the coffee effect, but I was desperate and had to disappear behind a wall en route !!! In my room I washed another shirt.
I walked to Splendid passed the Blue Room. I immediately bumped into Adolf. There was a mix of sitting at the bar initially, but then outside with a bunch of his friends. Great fun; great conversation. I ordered a kiti moto + banana. which was ready at 16:45. Superb. Cost 8,500Tsh…or only £2.50.
I walked to Nyumbani Htl, stopping at the new Arbab Village to check it out. At Nyumbani I went upstairs to a new balcony extension to use their wifi and have one beer. I now know a single room is 130K Tsh.
I spoke to the barman about the exorbitant price of hotel coffee then went back to my room. It was early but it’s nice to relax.
Tues 15th Sept
Not the best night’s sleep. Thinking a lot about whether I should be putting this much effort into maintaining Gpa’s grave. If I didn’t pass through Tanga as often as I do, who would care ??
I had my breakfast of chapati this time and boiled egg and bread. I reached Splendid before the rain got too heavy. I waited around for 20 minutes until the jembe arrived; in that time the rain got really heavy.
I headed for the cemetery in the light rain, but at least I had brought my umbrella with me. As I reached the cemetary the rain stopped. I took my shirt off and started digging.
After 10 minutes Robert arrived. We chatted as I continued to dig and he helped with pulling some weeds out. I stopped after half an hour, and we placed some big blocks/stones that Robert collected, to hopefully mark out the area for the future.
I was happy that Robert came in a car. We put the jembe in the boot. We wanted a tea. A place opposite the railway station hadn’t opened yet; Robert drove to Cappuccino cafe in Ngamiani where we had tea and chapati. Ngamiani is where all the small traders are, and well known for streets with numbers i.e. 1 to 15 , I think.
Robert drove via the streets that had long distance bus offices. We made general enquiries about departure times and prices to Moshi. In town we stopped at the Ratco office which is only a 10 minute walk from Ocean B, and their option was very appealing. I didn’t realise they went to Moshi/Arusha; I thought they only did Dar.
We went to Foodie Food for a tea and a chat. It wasn’t far back to Ocean and I wanted to walk it, and Robert wanted to accompany me. We arranged to meet on Thursday.
I definitely needed a shower, and I cleaned the jembe as well. I went over to Splendid. I caught a glimpse of Adolf, but being after 14:30, that was his going home time. After 2 beers I started to think of food and went across to the TI, but their kitchen was closed.
Next option was SeaView. It still looks rundown and they don’t rent out rooms anymore. Nice to see Deo again. I had one small beer but the kitchen didn’t open until 6pm, so I headed back to Splendid. I chose the grilled/fried pork this time…delicious. No rice or bananas or ugali…
From there to Nyumbani to have a beer and use their wifi. By this time it was dark. After an issue with getting change, I walked back to Ocean and to my airconditioned room.
Wed 16th Sept
I had a good sleep; I seemed to get the balance of a/c & fan just right. I had the usual boring breakfast; the bread is getting increasingly stale as the week goes on !! I was at the Airtel office by 08:30 and bought 5,000Tsh of bundles.
I walked to the cemetery with the jembe. I did more clearing around the grave, but the main task was to dig a hole in each corner to put a cement block in. Hopefully allowing the plot to be more easily located. That took about an hour, then I found the guy who tidied up the grave 18 months ago, and gave him another 2,000Tsh.
I went from there to Mkonge. I wasn’t going to argue about the 8,000Tsh cost this time, and I joked about it with Hillal. But what annoyed me this time was that they refused to give me the wifi code…because I wasn’t a hotel resident. I said I wouldn’t have the coffee and just leave. Hey, I’m a regular customer !! Hillal understood and somehow/sneakily got the code after 10 minutes.
So, I stayed. I took a few pics of course. Eventually after midday I left. I paid my 700Tsh for the dala to town directly outside Mkonge. I went to my room then returned the jembe to Splendid.
I just missed Adolf at 1pm as he drove out. I had one beer then returned to my room. I showered and sat in the sun and washed a shirt.
I thought that on the way to SeaView I would check on Abood buses…but they don’t go to Moshi. I walked to the railway station and then to Thinkers Pub…which had reduced greatly in size. I was only going to have on drink, but got talking to a Rwandan from Malawi and he bought me 2 more beers.
We had a great chat. About akabenzi..kiti moto in Rwanda. The gorilla ceremony. All sorts. I thanked him and went to SeaView where I ordered my boneless chicken curry. It was absolutely delicious and hasn’t changed over the years. The chilli paste is a tongue/mouth scorcher. !!
I paid 5,000…or £1.50 for the 2 beers and 18,000Tsh…or about £5.00 for the food…excellent value. I went from there to Nyumbani, mainly so I could use the wifi. The ‘ what about keep the change’ comment from the barlady annoyed me. It’s just begging basically. Even Deo at SeaView said to leave him ‘one’…so I felt obliged to give him 1,000.
Anyway, from there to my room isn’t far. A good day overall. I’ve decided…2 more days in Tanga .
Thurs 17th Sept
After breakfast I had a little walk around the Clocktower before going to Hashtag cafe after it opened at 09:00. I had an expensive 6,000Tsh…£1.70..coffee, but was able to use their wifi for an hour. Robert arrived after 10:00, but I stopped him coming in because of the expensiveness of the place.
It’s good that he has a car. We went to the same hoteli as 2 days previously; I just had a tea, but he had chapatis as well. We then went walkabout across the main road to an area of stalls/shops where you could buy everything under the sun. I bought my replacement cap for 5,000…around £1.50.
We went to another market where Robert bought tomatoes, then back to his car. He dropped me off at Splendid. Adolf was there , and we had a good, long chat, and of course I had the second beer which I hadn’t planned on.
I went from there to the Ratco offices and bought my Saturday ticket to Moshi…33,000Tsh..or £9.50. From there I was back to Ocean to relax and have a shower. It began raining enough to warrant using my umbrella.
I decided against SeaView and went to Splendid where I ordered fried pork. Delicious again. It rained. 7,000Tsh again..£2. Good value. I said goodnight to everyone and headed to Nyumbani. I successfully made my City of Tanga post this time, and immediately started receiving lots of replies. That was it for the day, and I went back to Ocean using my umbrella.
Fri 18th Sept
I had a good sleep. I had breakfast…boiled egg, casava, bread, tea. I paid the 30,000Tsh for my room; pleased with the £8-£9 cost. I caught a dala dala to Raskazone.
Fortunately the askari wasn’t at the top of the steps of the Yacht club. I opened the gate and took a pic looking down. I walked down, then he saw me.
Are you a member ??
No.
Then you should pay an entrance fee.
I know the chef and the people who run the kitchen.
I’ll take one pic and go.
There’s CCTV…
I took a pic and walked back up the steps, closing the gate behind me.
I kept walking around to the point. The big refinery on the other side of the bay looks operational; the Ugandan oil is due to flow in sometime in 2027. I went back, taking pics of the Yacht club and Swimming club. I caught the dala dala from outside the Swimming club all the way to the bus stand in Ngamiani.
I drew 300,000Tsh from the DTB bank. I decided to have a Blue Room snack, but after crossing the railway track I checked out the Malindi htl where I stayed 2 or 3 times. The last time with Tor was the most memorable. Dad fell down Swimming club steps and badly bruised and cut himself. In the evening Tor and I went to dinner, leaving Dad in Malindi htl. Next morning we left the very bloodied sheets, bundled Dad in the car, and drove fast to get him back to Holili & Taveta.
I went on to the Blue Room. I ordered a Nylon, which was potatoe slices and a dip…which was not what I particularly wanted because too filling, but tasty. The reason for going there was to film a little video of the inside, as requested by someone on City of Tanga group.
I went walkabout after that. Passed the Library, Museum, our old Chumbageni house, the Greek church, and to Airtel for a data top up. A nice circuit to refresh old memories.
I relaxed briefly in my room then went for my 2pm appointment with Adolf. We went in his car to the Tanga Police Mess for a couple, which he kindly paid for. It was my first time there; not the smartest of places, but it was undergoing renovation
I walked to Nyumbani to use the wifi in the garden area. There were some serious dancing activities going on. I did a big FB post. I went on to SeaView and had a chicken masala curry with rice. Very good. On leaving, Deo gave me change minus 1,000Tsh; he’s a nice guy but pushes his luck when trying to get extra money out of you. He doesn’t ask, just assumes.
And back to my room. An amazing day. I finished off my Hansons and went to sleep.