Pangkor
Sat 9th May
Of course I was up too early; I beat the 05:30 alarm by half an hour, but it made for a relaxed departure from the hotel. I left by 06:15, arriving at the bus terminal at about 06:40. I confirmed the Blue Bus was leaving for Lumut at 07:10.
The bus was cleaned on the inside and we left bang on 07:10. I sat in the 2nd row back, and there was one other passenger. The scenery was fairly boring but at least the trip was shorter than I expected, at just under 2 hours.
Seri Manjing and Lumut were much bigger than I expected. The ferry ticket counter was only 10 minutes away. The guy ahead of me was a bit slow and I started getting frustrated. I was told the 09:30 was full, but when handed my ticket I found myself on the 09:30 !! I think I paid 21RM; I had just a few minutes to board; we left bang on time.
It wasn’t far and we never lost sight of land. I stepped out of the ferry and onto the jetty at 10:10….exactly 3 hours after leaving Taiping. An excellent journey; all my timings were perfect.
I wandered around the port area for a while, just getting used to things. I was in no hurry to go anywhere, because I had no idea where was the best place to be. There was no Grab on the island, just pink vans which were obviously ‘taxis’. I asked in a shop what the going rate was for a taxi ride. I was told 25RM.
I came across a Chinese celebration for ‘Ancestry’. Chanting was going on, and there were lots of colourful plates of food laid out…presumably for a feast later. There was nowhere to get tourist info so I settled for a teh tarik.
As I walked down the street, a pink taxi was dropping off passengers and the driver asked where I was going. I said to Teluk Nipah ( the other side of the island). He said he would charge 30, but I said I knew the rate was 25RM. ‘Yes…but petrol prices are up’ !! Actually, I was happy with that. And we had to take the long way around as the shorter route was under repair.
Anyway, it took about 20 minutes…over a hilly road, through woods, skirting the coast…so, I thought the fare (under 6Gbp) was fair. I was dropped off in the middle of Teluk Nipah.
Accommodation was my first priority. There was a lot to see as I looked for lodging. The first 3 or 4 places were over the 100RM mark. The guy at Nipah Bay Villa was a good salesman and showed me a number of options and offering me discounts.
I was also enjoying chatting to the guy…Sabtu. I took room 238, on the 1st floor right at the end. Probably a good choice as there were a number of families with noisy children !! The room was en suite with a double bed, and a/c.
I changed into shorts and flipflops and put my sweaty blue shirt to soak. I chatted with Sabtu and he invited me to lunch at 12:45. I checked out the shops along the main road, and the beach and ocean.
The beach is in a small curved bay with large rocks at either end, looking out at two nearby islands…just a few minutes away by boat. The island directly in front has a beach with huts/shelters, but is only used for snorkeling/diving. No accommodation; it’s vacated at 7pm.
I stopped for a kopi with milk. Back at the lodging I was served a tasty fish in curry sauce, rice, vegs and a piece of chicken. I looked around for a bar for later, but there didn’t seem to be one.
I wandered 5 minutes up the road to the beach. Actually it’s a separate little bay to the one in front of all the hotels/lodgings. I sat on the lovely beach for 30 minutes or so. Behind me was Daddy’s Café, and I thought it was worth trying to see if they sold any alcohol.
Well, good news ! They sold cocktails and a small selection of beers. A small can of Tiger is 12RM…oh well. Considering the location, it was worth it. I had 4 of them while enjoying the scenery / watching the water activities.
I walked back, hoping to buy beers for my room, but the shop was closed. I went to a beachfront restaurant and had a noodle soup with chicken…very nice.
I fancied a beer so I walked back to Daddy’s cafe. It was good timing because it was approaching sunset. A stunning sunset right over the water; much better than Langkawi. A nice way to enjoy 2 small cans of beer. On the way back to the hotel the minimart was open but they didn’t sell beer. However, 3 doors away did sell alcohol, so I’d been going to the wrong shops !!
I bought a large can of Anchor and some bombay mix for my room. The end of a very successful travel day to Pangkor. It’s compact with a great beach, but I’m glad it’s the low season for tourists.
Sun 10th May
I got up late…at 09:00. Well, things don’t start to happen unti 10:00 ish, plus it’s Sunday. I went and sat at the same café and really took my time over 2 milk kopis.
A lot of shops were closed. I walked up the very steep slope behind my room, thinking I could cut across, but it came to a dead end. By that time I needed to be back at the villa for a 12:45 lunch invitation, courtesy of Sabtu.
I’m managing to put my phobia of eating fish behind me. As long as noone is looking, and I can slowly deal with the fish bones by myself, I’m fine. I spent most of the rest of the afternoon basically on the beach.
I went to the Chinese temple at the end, and I was taken by surprise. Figures of a mermaid, flamingo, turtle, and to cap it all ..Mickey Mouse. It felt more like a disney theme park..!!! But, apparently there is a Chinese temple in there somewhere !!
I walked along the beach to Daddy’s for a few small cans. Too cloudy for a sunset, and there was thunder rumbling in the distance. Back to my room for a shower, then up the high street to the same place for the same meal. Routines…hmmm..!!
On going down the street to get a beer for the evening, I passed the mahindi choma guys. They called out, and I said I’d buy one tomorrow. No, they’re closed tomorrow. I was too full to get one today…although I was certainly tempted. I’ll have to look out for mahindi in the Pangkor port area or Ipoh.
Back to my room a bit early…but not much happening in town, and it was starting to rain.
Mon 11th May
I didn’t get going until around…no point as nothing much happening before then. I went for a kopi. I walked beyond that end of town because I hadn’t done so yet. It was only 5 minutes before I was on the edge of town.
There was a bridge, and on the sea side on the sand, there were about 6 x 1mtr high poles with old bicycles ( with no seats) balanced on the poles. Another case of odd/intriguing sculptures.
I went back to my room. I passed Sabtu in the hotel and he invited me to a lunch again. On cue at 12:45 I was in position. Delicious chicken and rice and vegs, and we had a good chat.
I went to the other end of the beach and explored a bit more of the Chinese temple this time. In fact it’s less of a temple and more of a Disney theme park !! All very strange. I then lay on the beach for a short time.
It was approaching 15:30 and as Daddy’s Café was a very short distance away, I went for a couple of beers. Then back to my room to shower and do an FB post. Then back to Daddy’s. Nice sunset, although the sun has a heckuva glare from 5pm onwards which makes it a bit uncomfortable sitting at the beach. Was totally relaxed.
I returned to town and bought a can of beer, a bottle of water, and a packet of bombay mix. Then to my room. A chill day.
Tues 12th May.
Plenty of time to pack, and then time for a milk kopi. Chatted with a British couple; they looked familiar from either Koh Lipe or Cenang…or both. I checked out of the hotel and a boda boda to the ferry port was arranged. It only took about 10 minutes and cost 10RM.
The young guy dropped me off at Island hotel. Again, the price seemed okay and I couldn’t be bothered to wander around…and the clouds looked pretty ominous anyway. The room at 73RM ..or 14Gbp…was fine. Hot water, a/c, double bed, TV with one channel!. The lack of a window was also fine as there was absolutely no view.
It rained heavily for about half an hour, then I went walkabout. I stopped for a teh tarik. I just wandered after that. I bumped into the British couple; Gordon had come into town for a haircut. I found him in the barbers, and after he’d finished I took the opportunity rather than wait until Ipoh or KL. A no. 2 ?? The shortest haircut yet…shorter than Lindi a year ago !! At least it only cost 15RM..under 3Gbp.
I returned to where I had my teh and had a laksa for lunch…it wasn’t the best, but okay. I walked 10 minutes out of town, but there was nothing much to see. At that point I decided to only stay one night before moving on.
I asked around about a local bar, but there wasn’t one. Eventually I found a shop called Billion that seemed to sell every…including beer, so I knew I could buy some later to take back to the hotel.
I went to the port to buy my ferry ticket in advance. I disvovered that the 21RM I paid to go to Pangkor was a return ticket but I didn’t and of course had thrown it away. But a one way was only 10RM.
The teh restaurant was already closed, but I went across the road and had an excellent laksa. I bought a 6 pack of small Anchors to take to the hotel. I could sit outside the hotel and relax and enjoy my cans.
I saved 2 for the room. I had a chat with Phil. A good decision to leave the next day as there was nothing to do at the port, but worth trying something different.