Taiping
Wed 6th May
I beat the alarm by over an hour. I showered and packed and left Quee at 06:45. The chapati guys opposite were setting up. A 10 minute walk to the ferry terminal. I paid my 2RM fare, and a short time later at 07:00 we departed.
It’s only a 10 minute crossing. Then a 10 minute walk to the train station. I struggled with the ticket machine, but there’s always somebody on hand to help out. I think sweaty hands were my problem. I paid 22RM…( 4Gbp ) for the next and faster train at 07:50. There was a 09:00 train which I think was cheaper, but I wanted to get going.
It was exactly an hour to Taiping on the very comfortable train. I knew exactly where ‘town’ was this time. Just on the edge I stopped for a teh tariq as it was still early…just after 09:00.
The first 2 hotels were just 100RM, but then there was the 10RM to add on. The problem was the check in time of 15:00. The 3rd hotel…Epoch…cost 100RM+10RM, But the room was immediately available. Well, that clinched it…no hanging around for 5 hours in my jeans.
So I paid 220RM ..just over 20Gbp per day…for 2 nights, and took the key to room no. 4 on the second floor. The bathroom is pretty small, but the room is great otherwise. Double bed, a/c, good TV, big window. I put my sweaty blue shirt to rinse, changed into shorts and flip flops and went out.
I walked in the direction of the garden/lakes…cloudy but still nice. Next mission was to find the bar/restaurant where I hung out last time. I went around in circles a bit, but found it. Two of the people recognised me straight away, but midday was too early for a drink and I said I’d see them later.
I stopped at a restaurant and drank 2 tehs.
I walked back in the direction of Epoch and had a Teow…noodle/chicken/prawn dish for lunch. I managed to use chopsticks for most of it..!!! Back at Epoch I rinsed my shirt and rinsed my body in the shower. I went looking for the ‘Chinese’ tea shop again (without success), and generally wandered around.
In the Mall I enquired at the Information desk about getting up to the Hill Station…taking a much easier option than the uphill hike I attempted last time. Apparently a jeep can take you up, but have since learned at the pub that the road is under repair and there’s no transport going up there. I’ll make more enquiries.
From there I went to the bar. I had a good, long chat with an ex prison officer. He left and it started to rain heavily. The lovely Miyanmar lady who cooked delicious snacks, is no longer. I was drinking large (640ml Tigers).
Well, that was it …no more rain,
I drank slowly. I bought 2 small cans of Tiger to take to my room. I paid and went looking for a snack. I ordered Wan Tan Mee, but after waiting over 10 minutes, I was told I needed to go across the road. Try again…!!
Success this time. It was tasty enough. I wasn’t far from Epoch and returned to my room. I decided to stay an extra day in Taiping. My shirt was drying nicely !! I caught up on worldwide news.
Thurs 7th May
I had a good sleep. At reception after 08:00 I paid for a third night. I walked the neighbourhood looking for the Chinese shop that sold different teas. It took a while to find it, but it turned out it was only around the corner.
I went for a basic black tea. The tea itself comes in a small teapot. But then there’s a bowl of hot water with 2 small cups in it. Basically to keep the cups warm for as long as possible as you get through the tea. I had a good chat with the owner. I got at least 6 cups out of the pot, and was surprised when the cost came to 1.20RM. It was only 20pence !!
My next mission was to see if I could get up Maxwell Hill. I walked through a section of the Lake Gardens…across the zigzag bridge…passed the huge Baron hotel…passed the War cemetery…to Bukit Larut. This is where the hiking trails start. I thought about it.
I discussed options at the ticket counter. In the end…considering my knees, and the fact that I did that steep climb last year, I’d seen some of the view… I decided against it. And the clincher was the jeep hire charge of 50RM..approaching 10Gbp…when I was told it was 20RM. So the cost of getting to the top was a bit prohibitive.
I walked back, taking the same route as earlier. I stopped at a restaurant near Epoch for a soupy, noodle dish with chicken. The difference with this dish was that it came with fish balls. White, round, about centimetre across, with a hint of fishy flavour about them. Anyway. Lunch cost 6.50RM…about 1.20Gbp.
Back in my room I washed my long sleeves shirt and watched the TV news until 15:30.
It had started to rain a bit, but only spitting on my walk to the bar. I had my 3 bottles of Tiger; noone to speak to today which was a bit disappointing.
I headed back towards the hotel, thinking I’d stop at one of the restaurants for a snack. I passed a street stall lady selling chicken satay and it looked rather tasty. I ordered my 5 skewers for 6RM…just over £1.
What I got was 6 skewers plus a little bowl of onion and cucumber, and a bowl of satay sauce, and a little bottle of water. I couldn’t believe it…it was such good value and the taste was amazing. And she even offered me top ups of the satay sauce…Wow.
Then back to my room. I picked up 2 bottles of water from reception. Taiping is turning out to be incredible.
Fri 8th May
Last day in Taiping got off to a lazy start. No dawdling as the Chinese tea shop is only open until 10:00. It’s only on the next block. I don’t know how he makes money selling 20pence pots of tea.
I had my tea and a good chat. Then I fancied something with a bit more ‘umph’. I stopped nearby for a teh tariq. Then it was time to check out some more of the Lake Gardens. Very pretty and relaxing…the lakes with the hills as a backdrop, and the various reflections in the water.
I chatted with a couple of people. One guy was positive I could get to Lumut from Taiping. The Rock Garden makes for an interesting visit…all manmade, but funky shapes. On the way back I stopped for a coffee. Then back to Epoch.
I decided to go to the bus terminal and make enquiries. I had over a 1km walk straight down Jalan Kota…easy. Except there was no bus terminus to be seen. The directions given to me by 3 different people, took me back to near Novotel and the shopping mall.
I recognised the bus terminal as the one from which I took a bus to Kuala Sepetang last September. There was a timetable showing Lumut buses at 07:10, 12:00 and 05:30pm. The distance from Epoch was probably 25 minutes, so the initial plan was to catch the 07:10. Much better to not have to go via Ipoh. Mission accomplished.
As it was after 14:30, I needed some food. I settled for a Mee Kari. Noodles, prawns (not peeled), and tofu..I think. Tasty. Then back to my room to relax for 45 mins and have a shower, before heading to my pub after 15:30. Had a nice chat with Sam who I met last September.
I left at about 18:30 after a couple of heavy downpours. I had my umbrella, but didn’t need to use it. I stopped at the stall selling chicken satay and enjoyed another superb meal…the chicken, some onion, a lot of cucumber, the delicious satay dip, and water. I tried hard to leave the lady with a 10RM note i.e. leave her a tip of 4RM, but she flatly refused. I just had to accept that she wouldn’t take it. Not sure why ?
Back to Epoch. Another good day. I spoke with Alan briefly, reminding him not to set his alarm as he was now retired..!! I had an early start and set my alarm for 05:30.